Hurts my finger to push the tab in; I've been wondering whether or not I really want to use it. I paid 8 bucks for it, so I may as well throw it in. My main concern is that I will dent the front panel of the Hammond case I intend to buy to house the amp...

Did you consider using multiple rotary switches instead? I'm just curious as to your planning and rationale.

Quote: Originally posted by OriginalReaper You know what sucks? I just bought a Meta42. Are you saying your situation sucks because you've missed out on the fun of building it yourself?

I'm surrently making my first multiloop amp, and these are the values I'm using for an overall gain of ~10 (because of crossfeed): R3: 510 R4: 5100 R5: 5100 R6: 620K From Tangent's notes, it's not the difference between R4 & R5 which is critical, it's R3 & R5, where R5 should be 5-10...

Sorry if the post is a bit premature, but I'm up to the testing of the voltages on my new amp. I'm getting correct voltages from the power buffer, and the LED lights up! Yay! More to follow over the next couple of weeks.

I preferred the DT880s over the DT770 Pros; the 770s have awesome bass that's delivered very nicely, but the 880s have a mid- and high-end clarity that has to be heard to be believed.

I'm building a multiloop amp using the META42 PCB, and I've decided to socket (as per Tangent's part list) the resistors. I can't find any information on the diameter of wire that the sockets will accept, and my local RS Components lists 0.125W resistors with 0.5mm wire, and 0.25W resistors with...

I don't exactly know where to get them from, but there's a product here in australia that allows you to replace most of the bolts in your motorcycle with aircraft-grade, anodized titanium bolts of various types (hex, allen, torx, etc). They look very smart. Ask around at your local motorcycle...

There was a thread about this somewhere; one person stated that more than 1000uF per channel (ie 2x470uF) was overkill. What C1's did you use, pseudoanonym?

I'm guessing that the 80W temp-controlled puts out 80W maximum; the question is, how often do you use it at maximum? I really don't know if it's worth me buying a temp-controlled soldering iron for the usage I would get. Or maybe it is, I dunno. I'll have to consider future plans.

Can anyone comment on the quality of this equipment? An 80W soldering iron retails in Australia for about AU$70. edit: not 80W, 46W.

How about a stepping potentiometer (I think that's what its called). I saw an online store in singapore, I think, that made them using Vishay-Dale RN55's. I don't have the url, but it looked like it was good quality. A bit expensive, though.

OI, JIBBA! I'm ordering some stuff from Digi-Key this weekend; if you read this in time, drop me a line and let me know if you want some caps; I'm getting C1 0.22uF and 0.12 & 0.022 for the crossfeed. I'll grab extras of each of those in case you want them (they're cheap), but if there's any...

I would hazard that very few (if any) variable resistors would supply a signal as good as a fixed-value resistor.

And I am... Ambush... from OCAU. What is it that nobody's used this nick in so many forums? Is it *that* lame, or something? It's enough to give a guy a complex. "Who are you?" //mumbles "erm... nobody"

Hi, jibba. The minimum handling and freight charge from Digi-key will be around US$24, probably closer to $30. A cheque will cost about $20, and there may be GST on top of the order. Depending on the amount each of us would order hypothetically, we could split the cost proportionally, so it...

Quote: Originally posted by tangent Consider doing without. Measure your sources for DC offset, because most likely you don't have any offset to begin with, in which case C1 is pointless. Gold is more justifiable on input jacks, because you tend to leave those connected continuously...

Check out this thread, from OCAU: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...=brisbane+meet

Just so that everyone in Oz knows, JB's Hi-Fi have he portapro's, sportapro's and KSC-10's, and Headphonics have KSC-50, 55, and portapro. edit: url

Hi, jibba. I've managed to find almost everything except: * film & foil capacitors (Prime Electronics is out of almost everything) * cerafine electrolytics (no retailers here - going to use Panasonic FC or FA, or Elna Starget) * a decent 3.5mm stereo plug and socket (I'd like...

Meta42 C1 caps: I have the choice of using WIMA MKP10 160V 1uF or an unnamed 100V 0.47uF metallised polypropylene described as used commonly for speaker crossovers. Is there any reason not to use the "crossover" cap? Similarly, the same unnamed cap is available in 100V 0.15uF; would this...

Ai! Seven AM with no sleep is not a good time to post. Thank you for pointing out my slip, and the information. I had figured that the higher the capacitance, the longer the charge time, but I wasn't sure if other, unwanted effects might rear their ugly head. I'll give it a try and report back.

In, for example, a modified Linkwitz crossfeed board, what are the consequences of increasing the capacitors' value from 0.122 to 0.15 uF?

Yup, picofarad; wrong units, mental slip. Another mental slip for units conversion: pico, nano, micro.

Considering the following capacitors: C1 Wima FKP2 100V / 470uF polypropylene film & foil C2/C3 Panasonic Fc/Fa 35V/1000uF; or C2/C3 Elna 'Starget' ROD 35V/470uF My only real concern is the C1 capacitors: considering they're a "miniature" radial package (4.5mm W x 6.0mm H x 7.2m L)...