That's because SWFK doesn't have any mids. It peaks at around 4.5kHz Correction - Second resonator shifted peaks DOWN around -300Hz But yeah, damperless is very hard to tune...

Are there any good alternatives to ARTA + LIMP?

Type-III damping means no bass So this would work well as a tweeter

Just like Dhruv said, 4.6 vs 4.7uF doesn't impact sound as much as resistance To my ears: 39ohms sound dark 41 ohms sounds a bit relaxed 43 ohms sound like reference

I tried 39ohm, it's a bit too damped for my taste. I'm currently using 43ohm because I like my highs a bit sharper

PSA: Knowles vs Bellsing CI-22955 Bellsing has 2-3dB less bass; mids and highs are similar in level, but different peaks Because of this Bellsing sounds a bit more neutral (flatter FR) Also, centertap on Bellsing doesn't work. Overall not bad considering the price, but not a direct replacement.

Kind of yes and kind of no. Knowles will make it if you can order 100pc or more

We are on an audiophile forum, that's why I burn-in my litz wires for at least 300hours before I build anything :beerchug: /s

Sorry if I went a little overboard, I got a wrong impression that @dhruvmeena96 didn't understand such a basic thing. IMO such things are negligible for our projects

@Kulgrinda @dhruvmeena96

That's what I'm on about! It does not matter! Zobel will affect both drivers even if you place it in the middle of the wires because both + and - are shared

And this is how I would solder it for 2-pin

Do you really not understand this?

Problem with zobel is that if there is nothing before it (like a resistor or a cap) - it defacto affects all drivers

Bass and mids seem alright to me. The only change was brightness. I'm not sure if adding another fullrange here is wise, I already feel there's too much overlap in bass and low mids. But that could be because I use GQ-30710

Tried this with GQ-30710 and no grey damper. It was pretty good but a bit bright and shouty, so I changed the resistor to 33ohms for more damping and now it's good. Will try it with GQ-30783 a bit later (a friend has it in IEMs I made for him)

Ripole/dipole presumes open baffle design. Since DDs backwaves are isolated from the sound outlet it's just sealed push-pull or push-push for IEMs

Does anybody know part# of these ported DTECs? Or maybe Sonion?

No idea L-pad is series before shunt, why do you have shunt before series?

@koold GQ-30783 is a good starting point - simple double with 1 sound outlet = only 1 tube to worry about. White/brown damper for neutral, green/red/orange for bassier sound. Experiment with 1.5mm/2mm tubing. 2mm*15mm with brown damper (@ end of tube) worked well for me. If you feel more...

Same principle as line array speakers. Would love to see your results!

Nice job! Savant is neutral-ish mild V. But you can make it warmer by using higher Ohm resisor and/or red/orange damper on ED29689.

38AM007 looks like HODVTEC alternative so you'd want to cross it over quite low, below 200Hz (subwoofer duty) SWFK is a super tweeter so crossover point should be above 8kHz DTEC's are good for mids, but don't extend into presence region (in my experience) so you might want to use something like...

Adding resistors to BA increases decay rate (mostly in lows), plus adding dampers (green and up) makes them sound less articulate/precise

Broke my first TWFK today. Turns out TWFK-30017 is a combo of FK-30018 and WBFK-30019. Who knows, maybe this will be helpful to someone.