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I have had many parts made with jlc. I use Eagle and import my dxf onto the different layers necessary and then export the Gerber and drill files necessary. The only thing to be wary of is tolerances as they won't want to drill holes too close too each other.

Pm'd

I have tried and I found anything thinner than 2 micron seems to just tear when you tension it, if you had the right jig it should be possible

Now listed on ebay.

7-8 months old, very lightly used, great condition overall. I'm the third owner but I got it like new with almost no usage. I like it a lot but I've decided I can't afford to keep it, so I'm selling it. Comes with all original packaging and accessories. Smoke and pet-free home. W̶i̶l̶l̶...

If it helps anyone, where I am most sellers won't ship the thinner mylars on eBay but I was able to source different thicknesses from freeflightsupplies.co.uk

3 micron is better at bass reproduction, 2 micron is better at detail reproduction but both marginally sacrifice the other. Personally I like the way 3 micron sounds as anything thinner sounds bass light to me.

Dm'ed (when listing was for Arya)

Thanks, I'm glad you like my project so far :) I'll have a read of your post as it looks interesting!

This method used vinyl as the mask when etching, it takes more time to apply and remove but if you don't wish to get a solid ink printer this could be a good solution for you. I have a silhouette portrait which I use to cut the vinyl but you could get someone else to cut the masks for you if you...

Quick update on my planar driver. I have found a method which allows me to make my own material out of any film and aluminium foil I choose within reason and etch it successfully. This has allowed me to make diaphragms using mylar as thin as 1 micron. I am now using a 3 micron material similar...

I use the umik-1 coupled to a flat piece of cardboard, I have a piece of leather on the side the driver is being measured on and I use bluetack to get a seal around the hole in the cardboard for the mic. Ideally I would also have a foam block behind the cardboard but this seems to work for now...

I measure from the non-magnet side since it's the side that faces the ear. Perhaps there are also backwave reflections off of the magnets that still cause some distortion.

I'll probably give that a try soon, I haven't made a dual sided design in a long while, would be interesting to compare distortion measurements as it would definitely highlight what is simply caused by it being single sided.

Here is an update, finished up a pair of the drivers using all the new parts a few days ago: Taken some measurements, here is how they are currently looking. Frequency response: Distortion: Overall I think they're not bad, would like to reduce the distortion hump around 600hz but I suspect...

Agreed :) I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to measurements so I haven't measured sensitivity however they should be the same in that regard anyway as the trace is the same, with a resistance around 32ohms, and the distance from the magnets is also the same. When I take measurements I just...

I have tested it, it's a definite improvement over v1, distortion is lower due to the internal rubber gaskets which absorb some of the vibrations that were going into the frame. The biggest difference I heard was in soundstage, to me it seems larger. Here is the frequency response measurement...

Just in case anyone here is interested, I have added the T20/40/50rp driver mod to my shop :)

Thanks! I sell the previous version of my driver in the shop I have in my signature but I can make the new version if you leave a note when you get to making your diy headphones :)

I haven't updated this thread in a while. I have been working on improving the driver since I last posted about it, I put together the new design today still using 3d printed parts whilst I wait for the carbon fibre versions to be milled and some specific bolts I need to make it work. It now...

Maybe this would help you:

It's been a while since I worked on that version, I ended up going a slightly different route as I found it more interesting. I have been working on an upgraded housing for the original T50rp diaphragm which allows it to perform better than the stock driver housing. I too had rattling but I...

Thanks again, definitely a very involved process. Helps me to appreciate how much work went into yours. I'll look into having a go myself when I'm not so busy, though I'm not sure I would get quite as a good a finish :)

Thanks, appreciate the info. In that case what wood stains/varnishes would you recommend/use yourself? I have only used bees wax in the past. Just taken a look at your grado cups, they do look very nice!