Hey all, I've had my M1060s for a couple of months now and really love them! I'm still not done reading the whole thread but I thought it was about time I chimed in anyway. They sound great right out of the box but when I finally opened them up and removed the foam pads I was really blown away...

If you have another tube, that would be a good first and easy test. Try re-seating or rocking the tube while listening at a low volume. A bad solder joint is another thing to check by prodding and poking all the components with a non-conductive stick or tool while listening (low volume) and hear...

Welcome mariposastar, What sort of noise are you experiencing? Hum, Hiss, crackles...etc.  A brand new Bravo should be fairly quiet even though they aren't the quietest amps! I only notice some mild background hum when music is silent due to the cheap included power supply.

In this case the higher Versions are not necessarily better...just different. The V3 is exactly like the V1 but with a passive EQ. I own a V3 and have bypassed the EQ(see earlier posts) since it makes it sound worse and doesn't have as much gain. I should have bought the V1 but the V3 was...

These are completely rebuildable so in the right hands...Yes!

I'm glad you found the problem!

I don't think that's the right way to look at it. The two channels don't spit the available voltage, they both get the full 24v, but since the power rail is shared, there is a voltage drop until the power stabilizes.  They can both theoretically be up to 24v each! This is why this amp has so...

Mine are reading 14.2 and 13.5 volts right now! I may balance them later.

Yes, because of the shared power supply, the voltages affect each other. You have to keep going back and forth between the channels until you get the right balance and voltage you're looking for! The individual tube you have installed will make a difference also.

I'm glad you finally got your V3 working properly! The Voltages, 13.5-15.5, are just a guideline and you should adjust them for the least amount of crosstalk and distortion by ear. 

Why not just look at the schematic and previous posts in this thread?

I forgot to welcome you to the forum!

My blue LED stopped working once also on a V3 but the power circuit should be the same. I had a USB mouse that was worn out. I removed the blue LED from that and the amp works perfectly again. Almost any LED should work for that application. If the blue LED isn't working I would think your amp...

I previously had an issue with my amp powering off after warming up and found it was the blue LED shutting down and taking the power supply with it. I replaced it with a large red LED from a mouse that became flakey and I've been using it that way ever since. Well another mouse bit the dust and...

Well since you are having problems I can only assume this is the reason! If the heater in that tube gets only 6 volts, it will never transfer elections properly for good sound 'cause it never warms up!

From what I remember, the "6xxx" in the tube number stands for 6 volt heater voltage and "12xxx" is 12 volts.  That would definitely explain your problem! I have another similar amp (Little Bear P-1) that can use 6xxx and 12xxx tubes but it has a 6/12 volt switch.

The IRL510 is the best replacement for this amp. NOT IRF! Make sure you are using only compatible tubes such as 6922/6DJ8 or equivalent. You mentioned 12AU7 in your post...this is NOT a compatible tube for the Bravo V3!

Sorry for not checking in for a while! I'll have to check the MOSFET part numbers later. I usually get my parts at Newark.com. Don't the online electronic suppliers ship to Brazil?

I really don't think lack of "burn-in" will make an amp sound defective! The amp should sound fine even before any "burn-in" takes place. In fact I believe that most "burn-in" improvements are psycho-somatic as your ears get used to the sound of the new component.   I've purchased plenty of...

For flattest response, sliders all the way up. Bias voltage should be about 15 volts but it should work at the voltages you listed. I set mine at 15v as a starting point and then fine tune by ear from there.

Sorry to hear of your defective V3. Upgrading those caps is one of many mods I've already done using 2200uf/35v. Deeper bass and higher tolerance is the benefit. Have you adjusted the bias voltage? There's obviously something else wrong with your unit.  If it is new, why not return it under...

Mike Sorry but I forgot that you have a V2 when I commented last. The V2 doesn't have bias adjustment pots like the V1 or V3 so I'm not familiar with that bias circuit.

Here's the V3 schematic.

Welcome to the forum Mike, I'm sorry you are having problems with your Bravo so soon! Mine would stop playing completely but would work again after a cool-down period. It's curious that on yours, the blue LED would be out but the amp is still working. You should check the bias since the...

I was impressed with the sound with no mods at first but when I read about the crosstalk distortion and was able to identify it I couldn't NOT hear it. It then sounded terrible to me until I changed the output MOSFETs from IRF630 to IRL510. If you do only 1 mod, do this one, you won't regret it...