I know we talked about how to attach the yoke to the cups.  I ended up using #2 brass wood screws that were 1/4" long: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001387ONO/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1   The wood is too thin for inserts or anything fancy like that, but these screws worked fine and...

I never understood the fear of dust.  I mean sure, the Mylar diaphragm is delicate but a little dust won't do anything.  I've had my fair share of "oh ****" moments, particularly while putting the wood cups together, but the drivers are pretty damn durable.  

The wood looks a lot better with a generous amount of tung oil.  I did 7 coats (first two coats were 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits and the remaining coats were pure tung oil).  I used 600 grit sand paper to rub in the tung oil and waited 24 hours between coats.  It improved the look by...

Also, I ended up cutting the wires (for the ground wire right at the connector and the other wire under the black shrink wrap) to make it easier to work with and then soldered them back together.  While you can get by without one, a soldering iron is nice to have.  

The wood cups I bought from another head-fier (MonkeyNutz).  I'd say putting it together is moderately difficult.  The screws on the yoke are really soft and strip really easily, and after emailing HiFiMAN directly found out they use some sort adhesive so they are a pain to remove.  I just bored...

Got around to "woodifying" my HE-500s.  Didn't do anything to the sound but they sure do look nice.       

The threads aren't on the cups themselves. There is an insert (I think it's brass) in the cups:        Check the screw itself first.  The screws are really soft so I wouldn't be surprised if the threads on the screws got messed up.  If so, then HiFiMAN can send you replacement screws (they...

  That could work too.  I'm getting anxious waiting for MonkeyNutz wooden cups to arrive so in the mean time I may as well experiment.    

So a little update to my experiment in trying to make the felt triangular by pinching it together: it doesn't work.  Two days later, the little strips started to flare out and started blocking the openings.  I guess the adhesive isn't tacky or strong enough to hold it in place.  But, I had...

Here's my attempt to make this mod closer to the Audeze Fazer:     I got really good contact so I'm hoping the adhesive holds them in place, but from the feel of it, they should stay put.  

  Maybe it's time to buy a 3D printer?

How about this.  Instead of cutting felt strips that are 4mm wide, what if you cut strips ~8mm and sort of pinch it like so:     I tried it folding a strip like that and it seems like it would work.  You just sort of fold it together and flare our the bottom a bit to expose enough adhesive...

Just curious, is there a video of a teardown of a HiFiMAN headphone?  I've seen a teardown of the driver itself : http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/how-planar-magnetic-headphones-work-page-3  But, I couldn't find a video of someone disassembling a HiFiMAN headphone and putting it back...

I never sewed a day in my life (I had to watch a YouTube video) and mine turned out fine. Don't let that stop you from trying, all you need is patience. Also, you'll learn a skill, after sewing together the Jergpads, I fixed all my jeans that had holes in the pocket

Interesting, why do you think that? I think the stock are too close to the drivers where as the Alphas are too far. I think a centimeter or two thicker than the stock would be ideal. Physically, what would you think happens the further you get from the driver? It's still not far enough to...

Perhaps in the future I'll try with the Lawton angle pads. From what I have read, they have a similar signature to the stock pleathers, so perhaps the same modifications would have a similar effect. It's one thing to risk $30 dollars in head pads to do a modification that's proven, but to risk a...

Although probably not possible, it would be awesome if we could make the back thicker and fuller instead of making the front skinnier. Imagine the comfort of the alpha pads with the sonic signature of the jergpad.

No, the reason I was interested in some sort of vibrational damping was because the rumble would get distracting, particularly with some of the tracks I listed. With the dynamat, it's noticeably reduced but you still get that seismic quality but it'll also be more weighty and tight. I travel a...

The bass is still rumbly and you still get the tactile sensation, but it's tamed and sounds tighter.

I put the felt on both the outside and inside on the metal frame where the magnets are connected, just like Jerg. The dynamat I put on the outside, on the inner ring (below where the grill goes). Look at the last picture I attached, you can see silver strips on that inner ring.

  I don't know if that would work.  The visco-elastic material needs to be well bonded to whatever structure you want to vibrationally damp.  In this case, I was trying to damp the housing itself. and since the entire housing is pretty rigid, attaching the dynamat to the plastic inner ring...

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  What I did was I finished one cup and started listening to music.  I don't think the outer felt does much but the dynamat did affect the sub-bass.  I played a few sub-bass heavy tracks and the cup that wasn't modded would start to vibrate when I cranked up the volume.  The un-modded cup would...

I was a bit neater on the back side of the driver (since it will actually be seen):          The visco-elastic material is hard to work with in thin strips, so I stuck to felt for the driver, but since I had some extra dynamat laying around, I put it on the inside ring of the housing...

I think a short hand explanation would be that a lot of the higher frequency waves reflect back and forth between your head and the driver frame causing a bit of reverberation (the reason it's mostly higher frequencies is because sound is reflected provided that the reflective surface is large...