I could be completely wrong but... The PSU only outputs the current that's required by the device it's powering, I doubt your DMM would be pulling much current. Put a dumby load across it and then you'll be able to measure current.

I don't know if this is a stupid question, but as you're using the ALPS RK097 with this design, isn't the board going to make it hard to panel mount the input and output jacks (and whatever else) because it'll be in the way? Other than that, impressive, as others have said.

Quote: Originally Posted by Filburt Sorry, I didn't see the post where you said you were smoking C6. Did you make sure you oriented them correctly? C7 also? Yep, everything was oriented correctly; I don't know how, but it's cleared itself up. Just gotta' case it up now.

Quote: Originally Posted by cire depends on the voltage: ~4.5 to 24v = ~50ma ~3.2 to ~4.4v = ~180ma ~2.5 to ~3.1v = ~20ma Sorry to double post but is this consistent with what other people are seeing? Could others with PINTs test this for me. As I stated, my DMM won't measure...

Quote: Originally Posted by NeilR The Digikey part is a 10V part. Seems to me that the part should be a 25V part for a 2x9V amp and that is probably why it fails. If you want to test that that is the problem, bypass one of the battery clips and run the amp at 9V with a fresh C6 10V...

Yes, C6 is oriented correctly. I know the procedure to measure current draw, it just doesn't read anything and the amp doesn't turn on. EDIT: It's a cheapy, the probes are hardwired. Could that be the problem?

Hello, back again. Though Mister X's help seems to have fixed the problems I've had, any time I try to add C6 the capacitor smokes, now, the suggested C6 in Tangent's guide is rated for 10V and I read the full voltage of two 9Vs across its pads, which is what I should be seeing correct? (C6...

Quote: Originally Posted by cmirza How long until the DIY DAP come around? http://www.myplace.nu/mp3/ Been around for years.

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX Do you have the C7s installed the right way around? Remember the stripe on the tantalum capacitors marks the positive lead not the negative lead. *Kisses-Your-Feet* I had one of them reversed, I now have a completely working PINT. *Slaps...

Voltage is not being split evenly, V- is approx. 9V while V+ is approx. 6V. (With two 9Vs) EDIT: I measured 15V across C6, that's why it smoked; it doesn't seem the resistor divider is working but I've replaced them and it's still not functioning correctly, what's up?

I scrapped my first board and started on my spare, I used new parts all around except for some ceramics and the pot. I turned it on and C6 immediately smoked itself, I'm not sure why that is, but I just took it out. DC Offset is reading 1mv on both channels. Guess what, same symptoms as before...

I swapped the 6172 in ground for an AD8397 and that made my problem worse, I can barely turn the pot before the sound cuts out (as it did before the second 9V). I measured DC Offset after a lock-up and it measured the same 3mv/1mv L/R.

Quote: Originally Posted by Filburt Hmm, I wonder if doing the mini^3 mod in combination with using the LM6172 is somehow causing a problem with the ground chip being able to source/sink enough power in some manner, which is maybe why changing to 2x9v had an effect. Or maybe the mod...

I added a second 9V battery and am now unable to reproduce the lock-up and crackle. I can turn the volume higher now, but now I get crackling that gets progressively worse. EDIT: DC Offset at full swing of the pot shows 3mv/1mv L/R. EDIT 2: I got brave and decided to hook up my KSC35s...

Quote: Originally Posted by mb3k Maybe it's as simple as replacing the battery? I tried a rechargeable and three different alkalines, all checked with my DMM at around 8.6V, which I would think would be fine. I'll add another battery.

I did up a PINT tonight and I ran into some problems. Firstly, I was getting a large amount of DC Offset, 2.5V on L/R, but then I realized I forgot to jumper the two pins on the ground op-amp (my PINT is Mini^3'fied) and that fixed that problem. DC Offset went down to 1mv on both channels...

Everything in between.

Either buy some flux or just add more solder when you're trying to reflow those joints.

Iodine should work fine. Do not use antifreeze. Also, I may have looked over it but do any of the op-amps or buffers get hot when you turn the Pimeta on?

Isopropyl Alcohol is commonly known as "Rubbing Alcohol", it's an antiseptic, you should be able to find it in your bathroom.

I use isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush.

I'm pretty sure you used rosin-core solder, the rosin is the flux. If I'm wrong I have no idea what's all over your board, just clean it off.

Trying cleaning the flux off the board, it also looks like you've got some cold joints there.

Quote: Originally Posted by BavariaBarbarian And even Vinnie R. said somewhere that it's not worth the effort on the 5G, because it's so hard to work with. ... So it's got to be rather much harder to do. I didn't quote mach_y but... I'm not trying to sound inflammatory but...

If I had more guts I'd do this sort of mod to my 5G. I just keep thinking of the knot in my stomach if something went wrong. Nice job, though. Thanks for the information.