Santa needs to bring me a new power supply for my Millett MOSFET Max which I managed to fry by plugging it into my wi-fi router (same plug size!). I'm in freakin Korea and it's a pain to find a suitable replacement. My T-50RPs just aren't the same being run off of my laptop or even out of the...

In my opinion, FLAC files fed through Foobar, through my GrubDAC, into my Millett Hybrid MOSFET Max into my modded t50rp's results in amazing music but.... Just because I like it doesn't mean you will. I read so much in these forums about how "x" product works with "y" product but it all comes...

Oh and thank you for the compliment on the pics. Just FYI for all the readers my photo setup is nothing more than a point and shoot digital cam (Sony DSC-H3) on a baby tripod in macro mode. I held an LED flashlight behind the GrubDAC to emphasize the soldering, put the camera on a 10 second...

Reflowed all mini-USB pins, cleaned, checked - no go   Cleaned all extraneous stuff between all pins (was Q-tip fuzzies from prior cleaning lol), checked - no go   Tried desoldering possible solder bridge between pins 1 & 2 on the left row top side, solder refused to lift no matter the...

    This seems to be the main GrubDAC thread so I'll post my woes here. I recently finished a Millet Mosfet Max build thanks to the help of a few Head-fi members/mentors (check this thread out if you're having any issues: http://www.head-fi.org/t/604880/having-an-issue-with-a-mosfet-max-build)...

Hey fellow Head-Fiers,        A little progress report:   - GrubDAC assembled! But not functional  . I'll be posting details and pics sometime tomorrow over in the GrubDAC thread (I really just feel like listening to music and not messing around with anything tonight). For anyone reading...

I'm hoping you guys haven't had the thought "Damn, I'm wondering what the Nomnomnom guy messed up tonight" lol especially after my last post last night.   - Just to ease the least of your thoughts I had no visions of crazy little exposed wires laying around ready to ground themselves out to...

Lol yeah it's quirky but nowhere near as bad as the goofy little thing that it replaced.   One more question and then I bid you all goodnight til next time.   - Accessing those test points with those tiny little probes and trying to keep a good connection is a giant PITA. I can see where...

Lol, both tubes biased to about 12.5V right now (they're a little jumpy so I'm trying to keep it low).   On resistance setting when I touched the probes together it started at 0 then slowly raised a bit. Then I moved and the numbers jumped all over the place but I didn't see it jump over 6...

It's a Radio Shack 2200813 and it was reading "0.F".   As a side note after turning RB12 L/R COUNTER CLOCKWISE these pics were able to be taken...     These were taken approximately 10 minutes ago. The LEDs are still shining, the little heaters in the top of the tubes are still...

Just one quick question before I power this beast up. I installed those trimpots backwards because of a post I read elsewhere referring to the proximity of the adjustment screw to the tube and the casework involved. Will this effect the way I turn it to increase or decrease the bias?   Jake...

Well, I was a little worried for a second. I put the last fuse I have available until my next Rat Shack Raid into the holder after removing a leg of PF1, powered it up, shielded my eyes from the expected spark and.... Nothing... Which in this case was good. Using the trimpot it was easy to...

The fuse and the fuse holder are both a comfortable distance away from CR1A...   Just throwing this one out there. Could one or more of the rectifiers (DR1A-DR1D) be toasted from the previously backwards install of the first two? And if they are toast, could they be tripping the fuse?  ...

Switched ground and voltage pads (GND now in the middle, V+ next to fuse), blew the fuse yet again... I've gone over this thing with a magnifying glass and I just can't see anything physically wrong with it. I know my work isn't perfect but it's far from an atrocity so this is rather perplexing...

Okay guys I was hoping my next reply would be a good one but here goes...   I replaced the LM317 (lot easier than I thought it would be), moved the leads back over to the "Fuse" pads, cleaned and dried the flux up, waited a bit, put a new 1amp slo-blo in, attached power and POP! I blew the...

Beerguy - I know I restated what you said but I wanted to include it in story board form from the initial cause (reversed rectifiers) to final diagnosis and get confirmation from you guys before I tear into it tomorrow. Man, I really want to start right now but duty calls rather early...  ...

Ohhhhh yes I did. Seemed like the right thing to do what with those massive metal tabs that came down through the PCB. I pretty much assumed that beast wasn't meant to move so I acted accordingly and soldered the crap out of it. I think if I get those two caps out of the way, I'll have enough...

Ahhhh yes Beerguy but.... The fuse was blown during the initial power up, before I tested anything.   This was also when the two rectifiers (DR1A, DR1B) were reversed. Would it be a fairly safe assumption that the reversed rectifiers caused the initial blown fuse, then my hamfisted...

Blahhhhhh lol. That thing looks like it's going to be a royal PITA to remove. I'm guessing remove both caps that are in front of it for access, snip the legs, unbolt and remove the device then get those legs out of there? Then once again is that LM317 that I picked up from Rat Shack today going...

I do believe they are the correct values but just in case here's a couple thousand words worth of pics

Jake, just double checked all unused holes in Wima cap locations and they are all free of obstruction...

Ahhhhh got your edited pic. Was I just shorting it by connecting those points in the first pic?   Anyways, I'm hoping this is good news but I got 34.5V utilizing both of the rectifier locations and GND.

Lol yes self-proclaimed noob I am but I recognize and research good advice when I see it   On to the results: I think life hates me at this point gentlemen, I powered up and attached the test leads at the right hand rectifier location and POP! Little spark, a pop and a puff of smoke. I...

Another Head-fi member PM-ed me and suggested I test the LM317 that way. I'm not sure if I followed his directions precisely though...

Tom - I have measured at the plug itself where the walwart plugs into the board and get a consistent 26.5 volts. It measures the same where the wires are soldered into the board. That trim pot does seem a little weird but it works...   Jake - That foam pad is the underside of a mouse pad but...