The upgraded version with the 5V power supply module, without the yellow inductor, those inductor connect the Amanero borad to the USB 5V cable power

Basically your Amanero is lacking the low noise power supply module, power directly by your computer 5V USB power. That is not a good power source

Did you order the standard version or upgraded version 004?

I got a usb meter to test the power draw of the AOCJY3 clock. The 5V input of the TI 47 drawing about 830mA at cold start up for about 40 second. Then it goes into a lower power mode drawing about 350mA, Then stable at about 250mA after 5 minute. The room temp is about 22C

Need to make a correction here, the smd part red & blue mark on the pic is Not a capacitor, It's an SMD inductor. To get the 5V regulated power must remove the nichicon cap next to it.

I have a headphone amp have a similar class A output stage, I add Panasonic PP film cap to compensate output transistor, it also improve the bass punches a lot. Probably the Nichicon FP cap has very good ripples too LOL BTW LKS change the solid polymer capacitors from Nichicon FP to some...

Hot environment is not a bad thing for OCXO, less current draw from the oven, less power is needed by the OCXO overall.

So it doesn't seem those chips use a lot of power, But the LM317 and their rectifier are quite hot there. Weird Implementation by LKS.

Check it with the IR window face the heatsink, about 1.5cm IR spot size on close distance. Sometime IR is not very accurate on shiny metal surface

computer USB power is very noise, a liner first stage is definitely a better choice, it use the same GND with 9038 is even better. Yes, LT1963 is the first stage to the LT3042. And Do you know what does the other 3 LM317 are for on the 004? I never have a chance to take out the PCB yet, Thanks!

That is hot on the 9038, I running mine with case open measure with IR temp meter, about 45C on 9038 heatsink. With stock/950 XO

Yes red is + 5V. If use external power for the clock, The clock need to wire the power separately from the 004 PCB, 3.3V connect to the clock's Vdd and GND ,Only Clock RF output to the 004. Do Not connect The external 3.3V to the 004 PCB. You don't have to remove the stock Vr, Just leave it...

I want to replace them with Panasonic FM too, after settling play with the clock, LOL

I am preparing to get install it to the 004. Going to move my home in a few months so doing this on and off. Meanwhile I still enjoy how the cvhd950x sound on the 004 a lot. Forget the jitter number, the 950x just sound way better than the 575, stage, separation, etc I use a cable moded sony...

They'll advice you to buy a cheap 98Mhz clock to try first

It's the CVHD950x I had put on earlier I just got a AOCJY3 deliver yesterday, still waiting for the dual LT3045 PCB, but can try with the tps7a47 for now https://www.arrow.com/en/products/aocjy3-100.000mhz-f/abracon The AOCJY3 is not gold plated like your AOCJY2 btw

You can use a copper wire and solder iron like this to remove it remember to use plenty of solder flux on the solder joint when heating

XO options are more like how the manufacture rate the Xtal, The SC Oven are hot BTW:beyersmile:

@b0bb Do you thing how big the difference would be between the AOCJY sc-cut OCXO and pulsar clock? Do you think the crystal they use has similar spec, Thanks in advance!

How about to use PP/MKP film cap there? if have enough space

Sounds great on the bass! I got these earlier ago from ebay, ships from China

How is the bass, does it sound warmer on the bid clock? I got my self some TPS7A4700 waiting already

A sc-cut crystal beast!

I got the same regulator as this one, can only output 200ma

You're quick man:ksc75smile: