So there is no custom route?  My cousin knows how to make his own small amps, but at 15 watts, it requires alot mroe work

Quote: Originally Posted by Drag0n Just buy that one? Sounds like you need to find a nice big boombox. They still sell them online. In the 1980's people had them with 50 watts per channel and 10 inch woofers, 4 inch mids, and 1 inch tweeters. Some were huge. I see them on ebay...

Quote: Originally Posted by Drag0n I guess the OP isnt coming back for answers? Why do i bother? lol sorry, been busy with exams. I am looking more into the portable side, as in bringing ti to places where there isn't electricity available. That's its main use, like on a beach...

so any suggestions? It doesn't have to be built by a company, it can be a custom built one, maybe that someone is selling on here?

I should probably add I have no idea what you just said. I am looking for pre-built stuff. Analog or digital doesnt matter, I would like to have the option of having it battery powered and being able to plug it in., 3.5mm input, and around 15-30 watts per channel, RMS(if I can even get that much)

I am looking to make my own *boombox* and I'm looking for a small, battery powered amp. basically something like this: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...2&promoid=1055 Does anyone know where I can get a more powerful one? Maybe like 30 watts x 2 channels, or maybe be able to bridge...

okay its done, I still need to put some black felt on the outside so it doesn't look like crap. Ill post pics up asap

kk, so ill buy the wood over the weekend and hopefully have it done within a week

Okay guys, very last question, include the crossover or no? Once again, it starts to cut out at higher volumes when the crossover is connected

I e-mailed Logitech for some of those specs I need for the calculations, but they said its *classified* so I guess I'll just make it a bit bigger than the original box. Still need to know if I need a crossover or not.

...watts each, doesnt say rms or peak. So if I hook up 2 to a channel, and its 15 w rms a channel, I should be fine, no? Also the sub is 15 rms so its *spot on* Should I try without the equalizer? I think its maybe a bit to underpowered to make full use of the crossover just because it has to...

How do I figure out all that stuff? Once again this isnt just for a sub, im basically making a bookself speaker, arent i? With the calculator, how do I figure everything out? Also, the sound seems to chop out at high volumes, meaning it sounds like its skipping. Is this cause of the wires...

Quote: Originally Posted by cuba0555 • Yes the empty space inside the cabinet is important. • Yes having the cabinet as air tight as possible excluding the port is important to. • No the position of the port is fine. Try to use the rubber rings I told you about before or you can use...

okay, so would it look like this? 1. What about the port, does it need to be in a different place now? 2. Since Ill need to be opening and closing the box constantly(battery powered), does it have to be an air-tight seal everytime? 3. How low should the sub be in comparison to the...

Quote: Originally Posted by RedLeader Those speakers will not be able to produce much in the way of mids, neither will that "sub" produce much in the way of bass. You need all of those front firing for anything close to a decent audible range. K, ill rework some drawings and see...

I have a crossover which will filter the lows to the sub and the highs/mids to the speakers, should I still put the sub facing the front?

Quote: Originally Posted by jonnywolfet the idea of having the woofer front-firing is because i suspect that a fair amount of lower-mids will be produced by it, which would be muffled by firing downwards, making the sound boomier. I want boom though?

Quote: Originally Posted by cuba0555 That will work great. BTW what I call a port you call a cone. It looks promising. Add something at the end of the port to prevent dust from getting in. When mounting the speakers try to use some type of rubber ring around the speakers. And flush...

here are some pics These are my 2 speakers, cone, and sub woofer Imagine that being put inside a box, so that is basically how it would look, with the wood being around it. So should I make a separate casing for the speakers so they are closed off from the inside? Also, you wont...

Quote: Originally Posted by cuba0555 Is it the same box? If so you are good to go! Just flush mount the two speakers and your done as far as the mechanical work goes! As for portable powering. Don't know much on that. I to am about to make a portable using the iHome 2Go speakers but...

Yes, I mean the cone is a hollow tube, it is in the same positioning as it was in the old box, and so is the sub. Thats why I put it in the same spots cause im assuming Logitech tuned it a bit

Quote: Originally Posted by cuba0555 I kind of figured that the subs might be weak. The port set up gives them more air to move so better bass and less power. a strong sub can go sealed but more power is needed. Isolate for better image(separation). As for wood go with particle board...

Quote: Originally Posted by cuba0555 OK this can get a bit technical. To get the best out of any speaker tuning is a must. It will come down to a science if you go all out! If its possible front firing sub is best. Add a port and try to glue PVC pipe on the back side of the box. About...

Quote: Originally Posted by mbriant Does it need/have any venting? For either sound or heat? No, but isnt having a port gonna make the woofer sound better? Quote: Originally Posted by jonnywolfet i would put the mids each in thier own respective cabinets (internally)...