You read my signature wrong. I don't have the 1440.

I'm a sad kitten. =(   I bought the Android cable for my Momentums, but it's not compatible with my Moto G. So I think it's time I upgrade my phone. Any of you have an iPhone or a Samsung Galaxy I could try my remotes with, confirm that they work? The box of the Android cable says it's...

  That's great! Thanks!   I'll wait to receive my USB OTG cable and confirm I can use my smartphone as source. Otherwise there's no much reason in me attending.

Seems reasonable. At least you know where you're going with the design.   I have a bunch of op-amps I got over the years, some sent as free samples and others given by friends to try out. Sadly I never had the chance to try them out as all my gear is using discreet circuitry. I could use one...

Interesting design. Quite simple.   Can you explain why you decided to go from a 3 channel design to a 2 channel one? Isn't it a step backward in accuracy?

  It's simple, and to be done with any tube amp: Only plug the headphones in once the amplifier has warmed up and unplug them before powering it down.

Holy smokes! I never realized those capacitors had a polarity! Nice find! I'll switch them the right side tomorrow. Thanks a lot! :D Hopefully my ldo is not fried and will still work after that...

  OK I'll go digging trough some data sheets tomorrow.   If there's no way to have more than a guess-timate on how much current my headphones draw, I'll just take my amp meter out and test them. That should work, right?

  I prefer my modded SRH440 over my Q701 my a large margin. They have better bass, better resolution and a more enjoyable response curve than the Q701. They are more comfortable and block outside noise better by being a sealed headphone. But I was still talked down in my first days on this...

The LDO back in, I get 1.87 V on its input and 1.84 V on its output. I'm guessing there's a short somewhere but being mostly a trough-hole board I have no idea where to look. Not to mention the LDO doesn't get hot... Maybe it detects a short and shuts down, but then why is the input 1.87V?!?

So... after a long break, I finally got around to debugging my Carrie.   I took the TL750L10 off the pcb to test it on a bread board. With an input voltage of 14.7 V and an output current of 30 mA, the output voltage reads 13 V. Does this mean the regulator is dead?   I've never experienced...

  I made it myself. It's an hybrid design based on the Starving Student and the SOHA II.   And thank you. I like when things match. =)

Have you tried contacting ItalMelodie or Audiophonie? Maybe one such store could lend us a room, and use the opportunity to create an advertising campaign/event. It could be a win-win situation. You just have to convince them that it could be a business opportunity.

I think I got a soft spot for black and white.

  http://www.deviantart.com/art/Blue-480532421

   

Interesting. I thought I disabled Pulse, but it turns out it was still running. In Fedora 20, pulse is called directly by KDE at startup, so a bit more work is needed to disable it.   Disabling Pulse fixed the problem I had with mutes in KMix, and changed the available settings in Phonon.  ...

  Here's the mess of affairs on my system. Deadbeef works fine, listing all ALSA outputs. KMix now lists my ALSA outputs. Phonon does not list the ALSA outputs. The only option available to me in Phonon is to change the "hardware profile" in the "Audio Hardware Setup" tab, which toggles the...

  There is no packages relating to both gstreamer and alsa on fedora. You sure you're not talking about the phonon gstreamer backend? How is your phonon configured?

  I do use deadbeef too, and it works flawlessly. But I still need Amarok to take care of my music library.       I have disabled pulse, but as you can see from the link I pasted, KDE modified both Phonon and KMix to work even closer to Pulse, so removing pulse is now far from enough.  ...

  I think we need to clarify here the difference between the tab and the pins.     The tab and middle pin are internally connected. That's why you're supposed to electrically insulate the tab from the heat sinks.   On this amp, the drain/tab/middle pin is connected directly to the 48 V...

  Which explain the use of "modern" before "in-ear monitor".

I also find this news too ridiculous to be true. It seems like professional trolling and nothing else.   It's like "Omgz the two most hyped tech companies, I haz to make a troll news article about one buying the other. Fanbois are gonna droooooolllll."

  Avro, what BOM are you looking at? Are you sure it's version 2.01?   I got the DCP010512BP, which is a single rail converter. The dual rail has model number DCP010512DBP. (it's in the datasheet)   I also got a TL750L10 that gives me a +-5 V supply for the op-amps.

  I get 5.03 V at this point. The 3.3 V rail shows acceptable voltages too. I'm pretty confident the problem is with my laptop having lame USB ports, as the DAC works fine on my friend's Alienware.   I finally got around to test the Carrie itself and of course it doesn't work. I only get 2 V...