Quote: Originally Posted by Fing I forgot to mention that the blown tantalum was a 22uF coupling cap for one of the 1800uF Panasonic's I'd used to replace one of the 470uF's on the PSU At >4 times the original size, you should look at the size of the inrush current into the...

Quote: Originally Posted by weinstro FWIW, I received some "rocket logo" Russian 6h23, yesterday. I'll install these on Saturday and see how they sound. And they sound quite nice. I sourced these from Upscale Audio, purchasing the "gold" quality level. Fuller bass, treble is not...

Hey, a couple of follow-up questions: What's the width of the board? I may build a Jung super-regulator for the power supply, but would like it to fit into the same card slot as the original. Anyone tried this? Results? FWIW, I received some "rocket logo" Russian 6h23, yesterday. I'll...

Quote: Originally Posted by PinkFloyd Well, I've got 6H23N-EB in one of the V2's and JAN philips 6922 in the other (All brand new valves) The one with the Panasonic FM caps is running Philips 6922 at the moment but I'll pop some 6H23N's or Mullards in once I've finished messing about...

Quote: Originally Posted by Juergen I finally got my 6H23N-EBs today, they are currently warming up Where did you buy them? Did you get the matched and graded ones from Upscale Audio? I'm also looking at NOS tubes, but finding the choices a little confusing. Regards, Rob

Actually, I'm looking at the photos you just posted, and it looks like you have a Russian 6H23 in there right now. How is it working? How does it sound? Regards, Rob

Pink, IIRC, you know or have a contact at Musical Fidelity. Can you find out if any of these tubes will work well in an X-CAN v2? 6H23 (Russian, pin compatible, but draws more heater current) 6N1P (same deal) 8223 or E288CC Also, have you tried any NOS 7308's? Thanks, Rob

I'm finding that the X-CAN is rather microphonic. Sitting on a desk, it picks up pretty much any sound, such as vibration from typing, and I'm not a keyboard pounder. Has anyone come up with something effective to dampen out this type of problem? Thanks and regards, Rob

Quote: Originally Posted by Juergen It turns out that I have a 500mA time delay fuse. For the heck of it I threw in a 500mA fast acting fuse and POOF. I would like to try a 250mA time delay but I can't find one locally (hardware store, Radio Shack). The next time I order any parts online...

Quote: Originally Posted by PinkFloyd TR1 = ZTX653 (NPN) and TR2 = ZTX753 (PNP) are those the two you're referring to? Looks like a winner. Thanks. But, these have really small power ratings - only 1 W. The whole X-CAN draws about 11 W. Quote: Originally Posted by...

Quote: Originally Posted by Juergen I used a 30VA Hammond. I'll take a look tonight at the fuse. I think my first fuse was rated too low so I blew a couple then bumped up the value or changed type (I can't remember). With a 500mA fast-acting fuse, my power converter is simply a...

Quote: Originally Posted by Juergen 30VA / 120V = 250 mA (full load current). Of course it won't be anywhere close to being fully loaded but as mentioned, the inrush current is the issue. The time delay generally takes care of this. You still may need a larger fuse. Pinky, you run at...

Well, I've made some progress.... I completed my utilitarian style power converter, basically a 120 to 12 Vac converter to power the X-CAN. The only real twist is I'm using a 30 VA toroid transformer, and added a DC blocking filter to it. See the electrical schematic for a Bryston 4BST to get...

Quote: Originally Posted by PinkFloyd Yeh, the 500mA stock wallwart can run a bit hot... 30VA is a lot better for sure I have a question regarding the input voltage: Is it 12 Vac RMS, zero-peak, or peak-peak? Thanks and regards, Rob

Quote: Originally Posted by PinkFloyd I couldn't live without my X-Can V2 so have recently bought another one and am in the process of tarting her up a bit. Anyone else here got one and, if so, any tweaks you want to share? If so this is the place to do it I posted quite a fair...