It really depends on what you want to do. I'd suggest getting a scrap of protoboard, some cheap copper wire, and learning to solder first.   I tend to favour canare starquad or its 2 stranded sibling for wiring - its good, honest copper, solder sticks to it well, and its not too expensive...

well, the only time i had a 3.5mm jack break * , it was a plastic encased jack, and i dropped a laptop on it (a thinkpad, the laptop was fine, a wire inside it broke). Otoh, i've had nicked cables, cables coming loose from the transducers, and with full sized headphones, plastic fatigue. Under...

the 'large' channel imbalance was mainly at low volumes, with low impedance headphones or earbuds apparently - its impossible to replicate with my ATH M50 for example   Nwavguy did get banned from here, but he's still blogging - currently about the amplifier he designed, and on hydrogen...

@dabomb : That's the advantage with kickstarter - they can get the funding they need to mass produce it with a production partner who can produce it en mass, and actual production would be by someone else . The guy who designed this seems to have worked with Henry Kloss according to the kick...

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/legendary/earbuds-time-to-change-the-status-quo   Apparently someone's trying to design an extremely modular, almost indestructible pair of headphones. gratuitous connectors aside, some aspects of the design are interesting - almost all the cables are...

Starquad is a dream to solder, and has some pretty nice qualities for a newbie - it 'sucks' up solder, making it easy to tin. I'd also suggest some heatshrink over each lead on the plug end, and some over the cable as a whole for strain relief ...

nailpolish remover? dang... i should give that a shot if i can find any of the old cable i had lying around for experiments. I'm a fan of microtorches for that, personally, but that's also my inner pyro talking ;)

Well, from what i've seen that's usually the case with stock cables- ground is always 'natural' copper coloured (but still with that annoying insulating coating) and there's always two, right up to the jack (which is what makes 'balanced' termination possible) , and right is red - this has been...

yup. there's even a handy dandy guide on instructables which i did on the whole process! Its only as hard as brain surgery without the brains. but with a soldering iron. I'm actually embarassed on how many times i've linked that guide.

well, last time i repaired one cost me 2 dollars or so in parts. *even* if you did a full recable with good (not uberfancy) cable and plug, it'd cost nowhere near $200 - even if you got someone else to do it. - i think you can do it for under 10 dollars worth of cable, and a jack of your choice.

You can replace the cable - if its on the plug end, its as simple as chopping it off. removing the insulation on the wire, if any, and soldering on a new pair. If its on the headphone end, its a little more involved. It would be about 10 minutes work if you can solder, at most.

assuming they use the same basic sort of plug and wire that many other sennheisers do , this might help - its for a fullsize but there's a few small tricks that would be of use   

switching to bbcode does it for me. Still, rather dissapointing QA from whoever wrote the platform ><

I do suspect i'm flagellating a deceased equine... and some of these i've probably pointed out before but...   Quote: A problem that seems to be quite the bit more obvious with IEMs - which tend to be far more sensitive than full sized headphones. Maybe a fairer thing to say is "The...

if you didn't notice, i would suppose, least on the short term, the damage isn't too bad.  Wierdly i can't find any reference to how its supposed to sound like.