I think any Arya would be a great headphone for single player gaming where you don't need a mic. I'm using Arya Stealth and the large soundstage is great for using Dolby Atmos for headphones.

I should have mentioned I volume matched them using Roon, they were either 1dB or 0.5dB apart, I can't recall which and I can't look it up as I had to reset all my Roon settings the other day because now it skips all my tracks. I linked them up together so all I had to do was flick the input...

I just upgraded from a magni+ modi+ stack to a Jotunheim 2 with the Multibit card (I still use the modi+ for movies and gaming) and it's such a great match for my Aria Stealth. It gives them the power they need to really shine, and I'm getting layers and details in recordings that I'd never...

I can confirm that this model splitter does work for me without cutting out at higher volumes. It also fits the Cayin USB3 to type-c adapter much more snuggly than the previous adapter. One thing I did notice with my particular setup, I don't know if it will carry over to other people's, is...

I'm not sure you can strictly class the noise we hear at the end of each track as EMI. It's more of a residual noise. If it was EMI you would be able to hear something during the track say if you brought your phone closer to the DAC. What we hear has nothing to do with electo magnetic impluse...

It just adds a 2nd amplifier to boost output. In my experience if you are worried about power draw, best stick to the 3.5mm.

Apologies I missed the reference to iOS, read all the other references assumed that you would be using it like I use DACs and plugging it directly into a Windows machine. It seems that you are streaming via DNLA to your phone using their remote app. Whether that app can bitstream or not over...

I use Jriver, mostly for Video and DNLA audio but I'd assume that just like any other DAC that you wanted to bitstream to, you would use just use Wasapi or Asio instead of Windows default audio renderer?

Queue pictures like this but with tubes either side

They could be related. I'm thinking that some of the USB splitters limit the power (can't remember which V or A, probably amps) to 1.0 instead of 1.2 like some phone manufacturers limit the usb ports It sounds like both @Goofyboy84 and @Currawong are having the same symptoms, probably caused...

That's what I thought but someone pointed out to me a few posts up. Look at the specs. It specifies having a DAC if you enlarge the 3rd picture. I have a Google Pixel 5 and a LG V30. I'm going to try it on the V30 in the morning when I've charged it up. but I had the same issue with the last...

That's the one I bought! It has a built in dac which is why I can't reconnect the RU6 if I disconnect it, it has a click in my right ear every just over 1 second and it cuts out if the RU6 demands too much power. @twister6 what headphones have you tried with it?

I really want to be able to use my phone whilst I'm listening and charging

Oh so it does. It's really hard to find one without it seems

Which battery are you talking about? The phone battery or the external battery? The external battery can charge a variety of configurations including 5v 3A or 9v 2A (15 or 18W) The phone battery is capable of powering the RU6 on its own without these issues