[meatbix]

Dear head-fi DIY community, 
 
I apologise if this post is in the wrong section,
 
I recently managed to destroy my girlfriends SE535 IEMs and am in desperate need to repair them, Hopefully a few of you could enlighten me with your technical knowledge. 
 
 
Picture 1: The Damage
 
Applying my caveman technical skills, I figure all i need to do is to is establish an electrical connection between the three pins and the exposed copper wire, is this correct? I purchased a solder iron and was all ready to go at it but what concerns my is when I manually press on the wire I cant hear anything..
 

Picture 2: Unexposed underside
 
Additionally on the underside of the monitor there is another copper strip that is not exposed, does this need to connect with any of the pins? 
 

Pictures: My pins
 
Finally, of the three pins, the first two from the top have residue of the copper connection that used to bring pleasure to my eardrums, the middle pin is rotatable 360 degrees so could connect to either of the copper wires?
 
Please if anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated
 
God bless you all, Meatbix 

 

 

[Squirg]

The 2 pins on the outside are the same (negative terminal). The middle pin is the positive so as long as you connect those 2, you should be good to go! There has to be a good/solid connection before you will hear anything. Play some tunes (old-school Megadeath perhaps?) and solder until your rocking. Be careful with that ribbon connector though. If that separates from the balanced armatures, your screwed-ish.

 

[Lightsword]

Careful soldering should get you back in business. Be careful with the leads and you should be fine, also consider using some flux to help the soldering improve. I hope this helps!

 

[proud2deviate]

I'd recommend removing what you can of the old solder. Tin every connection point, remove solder with desoldering braid, and repeat a few times. If the old lead-free solder is left there, it will very likely result in a weak/brittle joint, and raise the melting temperature of your new solder.

As stated above, be very careful with the ribbon. They like to rip, and sharp bending can break the conductors.

If I were to suggest a procedure;

Desolder as above. Use good leaded solder.

When you are satisfied that freshly applied solder melts and flows as it should, tin the pins, leaving a tiny bit of excess solder. If it forms a noticable bead, there's way too much. Dab a bit of flux on the ribbon end. Position the ribbon over the pins (toothpicks work well to hold things still while soldering.) Now, heat the pin with your iron until you are confident the solder has melted (you might even feel the ribbon squish down flush with the pin.) Remove the iron, but otherwise, don't move. Hold steady for a second or two until the solder solidifies.

Repeat with the other pin, and (hopefully,) rock out!

 

[audioxxx]

I think these guys are correct, only I believe that you ripped the ribbon away from the connector, now you probably have no where to solder anything to.

If the ribbon is damaged, you have 2 choices, find a new ribbon, or join cables to the next part down where the crossover this is positive, components are and on the ribbon. And back on the other side theres negative back where the ribbon connects to the BA driver.

I think your better off getting someone else to fix this, because you can make it worse, if you don't have a quality iron, and solder, + skills, these aren't cheap. ( Although about $80 will get you one). And practice on something else, if you are going to attempt this,( make sure you can join cables very quickly at the lowest temp possible). You can get some fine cable of some cheap iem cable and tin the ends. You really don't want to be heating things up for long, watch some YouTube videos on soldering.

Or you could find a new girlfriend?