It's a switchcraft 3.5 mm plug, .290" opening for cable. I was looking at this ( http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/microphone/stereo/ ) data sheet and it seems to say that the width of the double cable is 4.8mm X 2, which I guess wouldn't fit the switch craft. Maybe your connector is...

I'm trying to make a shielded stereo 3.5mm mini to dual RCA cable, but I'm having trouble finding two shielded cables thin enough to both fit in the 3.5 mm jack.   I don't want to use a single cable and split it, because I'd like a shield the whole way through, to each RCA. There are some...

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Here's a list of most of them, I may have missed a few. Maybe someone knowledgeable could chime in and tell me if any of them are good for audio?      9x 6AU6A   6x 6BL7GT(A)   3x 6AS5   2x 7AU7   3x 6BY6   3x 6T8A   2x 6AU8A   6X8A   2x 6BZ7/6BQ7A   2x...

    I wonder if I can build anything with these... Any desirable tubes I should check for? It could be that none of them are useful. I found a tube tester with them too, so far the ones I checked were fine. 

So I've got new problems...   I had a lot of things going on and wasn't able to work on the amp for a while. I finally got it all wired up and I'm measuring ~10 VDC on the headphone jack. I tried some old ipod earbuds and all I hear is a low hum... Any ideas? The voltage doesn't change at...

Quote: Cool, thanks for the link, hadn't seen that before. I've read tangent's stuff and keep going back to it as I understand more. Hopefully my amp will be up and running soon!

Yep, I think I put it in upside down, wired one of the pins wrong, or both. I fixed it and put a new chip in and it works fine now. ~9.8V on each side from the ~20V from the power supply. I should have been more careful. Now I'll be extra careful when I do the more expensive opamps.

Quote: Crap, I don't know what I did wrong at all. The diode and the LED aren't the problem, then something I did is way off... Hopefully the BUF634 is ok, the TLE is cheap and I have a couple. Back to the drawing board, so to speak...  

DOH! it was the LED. I soldered in the LED and there's no smoke. Live and learn. If you don't mind I'll share what my measurements are:   V- to V+: ~15.50V   Vground to V- ~16.25V   Vground to V+ .625V (I got a negative number when I had the positive end matched up with V+ for some...

I checked the connector. The extra pin is a switch; it is connected to the negative side when not plugged in, and unconnected when the plug is in.    Could the smoking problem be that the LED or Diode weren't connected when I plugged it in?

I'll check that out. I think that the extra pin is a switch like you said. One thing I realized is that I forgot to put in the diode and the LED+resistor, I was planning to put them in later. Also, I think I might snip the legs off of the connections I don't need on the TLE2426 (it's the 8 pin...

Wow thanks, very helpful posts.   I soldered together the power section of the board, with the TLE2624 and the BUF634, and decided to "test" it. I plugged the wall wart into it and something started smoking! I unplugged it immediately. I don't know what happened. When I wired the socket for...

The DIP sockets will be fine. 25V capacitors will be fine. If mouser doesn't have the part you want you'll have to order from somewhere else too. It's annoying, but sometimes you have to get parts from several places.

Quote: I believe you'd need less gain for the lower impedance HP's like the Grados, but like you said they draw more current. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. So the CMoy should work fine with your grados. Of course high-end amps are going to sound better. I'd like to hear what...

Quote: Thanks a lot for that link! I tried looking at his pages but got intimidated because... well... it's in KOREAN  I'm going to see if I can use that layout with a BUF634 somehow.  

Wow, that is really small! I love seeing your drawings of the layout, it gives an insight on how one actually comes up with it.

So just put in a 500K resistor and the 50K pot will work fine? That sounds good. The A47 will be perfect for me because all of my headphones are <100Ohms.

Thanks to you Avro I'm starting to read about audio and audio electronics. I have a great (old) book called the Audio Cyclopedia which is helpful.     I've ordered all the parts except for the pot. I have one that I can use, but I plan on getting a better one. Is there a way to implement a...

Okay now I understand. I'm going to re-read the tangent virtual rail article and see if it makes more sense now. Thanks again!

I thought that the center voltage was 0V, then the rails were +9V and -9V? But it's +18V, 0V (ground), and -9V?

Quote: Ok good, I thought it was around that. One more quick question about power:   The TLE2426 says the power supply range is from 4V to 40V. Obviously I'm not going to have a 40V power supply, but I was thinking around 18V. The BUF634 says the supply voltage range is +/-2.25V to...

Ok, now theyre all metal film.   About the power supply, I'm going to get a wallwart at around 18V, how much current will the amp draw? Less than an amp?

Quote: That looks awesome! Any pics of the inside?

Great that's what I thought. The larger resistors (47Ohm) might be wire-round, but I'm sure it'll be fine for this project.   The last part I'm having trouble with is the proto-board. Ideally I'd like a perforated board with individual copper pads for each hole. I'm ordering from Newark, and...