Against my better judgement, I went and bypassed my fuse in my SA-1. Surely no fuse whatsoever would be best, right? There is no difference in the audio, as I expected. No idea why you guys think there is one, you are probably changing other variables or smoking something rather strong...

It does need to be brought up, otherwise people get tricked into sending their money to people who are effectively scammers. But hey that seems to happen a lot with "audiophile" equipment. There is no benefit in an "audiophile fuse". None whatsoever. Do not waste your money. It will not make...

Lol sorry to say this but changing a *mains side fuse* is nothing but snake oil. This is almost as stupid as those "audiophile network cables".

Been using the SA-1 as my main amp for a while for my Aryas. Great piece of kit if you can pick it up on a discount. I can't really hear any difference over similar amplifiers in the same price bracket, but having switchable outputs and inputs is super useful and there's no channel inbalance or...

Is there an amp for the stealth version of the Arya which is going to be audibly much "better" than the balanced output of a A50s? For example when I tried these headphones with a schiit tube amp, you could quite clearly hear distortion with some instruments. The A50s sounds good to my ears but...

So after several years of use my right front tube socket is now "loose" despite only removing the tubes once or twice. This causes the right audio channel to be much quieter than the left, or buzzing, unless the tube is wiggled a bit. Faulty connection within the socket or the electronics, maybe...

I bought a topping d30. It seems to be okay so far and there is zero audible static for me - at least over background with semi-open headphones. The sound is good. I feel like there's more bass than there was when I used my modi, in fact I'm happy with zero EQ on my music. I can't say if that's...

This also looks ok: https://www.amazon.co.uk/M8A-ES9028Q2M-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B06XW8WS1R

Large inductive loads (fans) turning off cause an audible pop too. They used to completely kill my modi. I'm thinking about going optical in with a new DAC if USB has the same issues.

Hi, looking for suggestions for a new DAC. Considering Schiit's chronic issues with their dacs (AC line noise = cut out DAC, USB issues, driver issues), and the fact that they seem to be permanently out of stock in the UK, I've decided to look elsewhere. Requirements: 24/96 or higher...

Nope, except for convenience of having a higher quality/longer cable that won't break.

I've had the same stock tubes for many years now. Is it worth getting new ones?

Mine runs very hot as well, might be the power of the unit (240v vs 110v). If it's running too hot, place it on something metal to dissipate the heat, or have a fan blowing near it, this will cool it down dramatically.

Instead of simply not working, windows 10 + usb 3 actually killed my gen 1 modi and it doesn't work on even windows 7 / usb 2 laptops any more.

You probably won't be able to tell any difference. However, USB requires drivers that sometimes don't work, so coax or spdif might be a better choice if you have those headers on your motherboard.

You don't need to convert to .wav or .aiff. As long as you can import and export in FLAC, there will be no quality loss. You can check the spectrals afterwards to see if the audio program has decided to mess with the audio or not.

I have been using these for a while now with the B-pads and they are excellent. The A-pads really have no bass at all, however, so stick with the B pads.

So, I ended up buying them. My initial thoughts when I first put them on were: -MUCH larger soundstage than 880s -Bass is more "there" -Very tight clamping force The increased detail/wider soundstage was very jarring at first, almost too busy for my ears. Having "burned them in" so to speak (my...

"Not much difference" in terms of comfort or sound quality? I know for a fact that many people consider the 880s to be *really* neutral. And it shows without me being able to EQ them - which isn't a problem - I can EQ these as well. If there is an increase in clarity or "feel" overall, I...

Hey guys, I'm looking at up/sidegrading to a pair of dt 1990s. My usual listening setup is as follows: schiit modi -> numark mixer (with the bass and treble eqs increased to my liking on these very neutral headphones) -> schiit valhalla 2 -> dt 880s (600 ohm impedance). Also I listen to my music...

  This review: http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/maverick_a1_e.html seems to suggest that the A1 is not the best amp for what I want to use it for. I'll look for others.

What's the difference between a D1 and a D2+A1? Would a D2+A1 be able to power some speakers as well? If so, this would be really good as I could buy a few small bookshelf speakers as well to replace the ones I have borrowed.

Does anyone have experience with http://mav-audio.com/store/ 's products? Specifically the D1/A1 combo, they look good for the price ($500 exactly including import fees). I'll do some more research into them before considering them of course.

Thank you for your suggestions. Quote: £300 is slightly too much - I looked at the DT 880s and I may be able to get them for £150-£200. If I can't, I will consider the HE-400s as well.

Hi all,   I'm looking for a headphone amp + (usb) DAC for a pair of DT 880s (600 ohm) that I will be purchasing that performs well with electronic music ie drum & bass as well as dubstep (not skrillex-dubstep). I have about £300 for both ($500, but bear in mind things are more expensive here...