Quote: Originally Posted by GeckoSlayer are there any millet starving students with ipod/iphone docks on them yet? Yep

Quote: Originally Posted by JamesL That'll do fine. Grease used for CPU's are probably better than the generic type, considering PC enthusiasts go to long lengths trying to squeeze all the heat from their cpu. Aren't some of the thermal compounds used with CPUs electrically...

Quote: Originally Posted by J.P.6 I did look but some of them don't say if they are 18W or not, is this one correct? CISCO AIR-PWR-A power supply 34-1977-03 NEW IN BOX on eBay, also, Power Cables, Cables Connectors, Computing (end time 22-Nov-08 20:15:51 GMT) Yep - that's...

Quote: Originally Posted by J.P.6 However, I'm having trouble finding 19J6 tubes in the UK. I couldn't find any for sale in the UK or anywhere else in Europe. I ended up buying them from Radio Daze (Radio Daze) in the States who were very reasonable with their shipping costs...

Quote: Originally Posted by J.P.6 How hard will this be for a beginner? I can read the schematic but am a bit confused by some things. Is there a step by step guide out there for this amp? FWIW, I did a CMoy first, but can't really say it helped as the builds are pretty...

Quote: Originally Posted by kuroguy if you run the LED at 10 mA the power dissipated in the series resistor is .46 watts. use a half watt resistor at least 4.6K and you'll be fine. I settled on a 22K resistor, giving a current of 2.18mA. With my standard-brightness LED, that's...

Are you mounting both FETs on the same heatsink? If so, how about drilling and tapping a hole between the two FETS and using a short piece of metal bar and a bolt to clamp the FETS to the heatsink (with thermafilm or whatever in between the FETs and the 'sink). As long as the metal bar only...

Quote: Originally Posted by error401 I would drill and tap holes The MOSFET needs to be insulated from the heatsink, so you need to drill a hole large enough for a TO-220 insulating boss to go through and then use a bolt, washer and nut.

Quote: Originally Posted by rhys h Has anyone in the uk successfully managed to source all the parts locally excluding tubes and tube sockets? I dont fancy getting bitten by fedex for import tax again. ($50 inc admin fee for $110 order). I sourced everything from Farnell (Farnell...

^^^ Looking good, Gurusan. FWIW, I drilled a quite a few vent holes in my DAC's case (top and back, close to the VRegs). As you say, the regs' heatsinks get pretty toasty. I got some larger value MCaps (1.5uF) and am going to install those tonight to get the -3dB point below 10Hz when the...

Quote: Originally Posted by holland Is this board still available somewhere? I couldn't find it on an e-bay search. [Adamus beat me to it]

Quote: Originally Posted by adamus you need over 1uf I used 0.47uF Mundorf MCaps and don't notice any bass roll-off with my Starving Student. Is 0.47uF too low for a 50k pot? As f = 1 / 2 x Pi x C x R that gives 6.77Hz (I think) I haven't listened extensively through my...

Quote: Originally Posted by gurusan What is that pot? Does that control the analogue out volume? It's not a pot - it's a rotary on/off switch.

Finally got round to finishing it. I put the transformer in a separate box. On my desk beneath my desktop Starving Student Sounds pretty good. I swapped the op-amp for a LM4562NA and it sounds nice and detailed.

Thanks everyone. Seeing the thread on The Art of Sound certainly clears things up - especially this post which covers just about everything discussed here so far. I've already bypassed C27, C28, C30, C31, C6 & C54. I don't really feel like tackling the resistor and capacitor changes required...

^^^ Thanks, guzzler. So I wonder why the original modder changed R14 & R17?

Quote: Originally Posted by 00940 If the resistors around it are well matched, it should be close to 0mV. I don't think the resistors around it are well matched: R8 and R9 are 36K whilst R14 and R17 are 22K. In fact in the original modder's photo that Adamus posted, it looks like...

Found this photo in the same Photobucket album as the initial one Adamus posted showing the capacitor mods. Am I right in thinking he has taken the multiplexor out of circuit with the two solder blobs (presumably for sound-quality reasons) and hence the requirement for the additional series...

DAC Schematic

Quote: Originally Posted by adamus can you post the schematic keiths Yep - but it'll be tomorrow morning (and will be a poor quality scan of a poor quality print)

Quote: Originally Posted by 00940 As a guess, the resistors protecting the output were R28 and R29. On the pic you show, the modder removed those (among others). He thus had to put some new resistors to protect the output against a short. From the schematic supplied with the DAC...

Quote: Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict I'd be afraid the box would catch fire. Maybe I'm wrong, just looks scary. It's going in a propper case. It was only connected up in the box for a quick test! I was worried that you were suggesting that the capacitor mods would make...

Quote: Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict Is your fire insurance up to date? Please explain....

OK, so I've bought one of these and want to tweak it. I've replaced the op-amp with an OPA2132PA (the only dual op-amp I had lying around) which is a noticeable improvement over the stock one, but intend to get an LM4562NA (data sheet here: LM4562 - Dual High Performance, High Fidelity Audio...

Quote: Originally Posted by G-man i cant really find it at maplin, but i will try and find it elsewhere. thanks again G-man I've got some spare MOSFET mounting hardware - send me your address in a personal message and I'll pop them in the post to you