Was wondering if any of the metal heads in here have heard of Turisas? I didn't hear of them until they opened up for Dragonforce in my hometown. Saw them and was completely blown away. Such an epic sound, and stage presence lol. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone knows of bands with a similar...

Solitary Shell, then Surrounded.

Does anyone have the warranty info for Ultrasone? I found nothing on their website and all I have is a phone # that I will call tomorrow. The right ear went out on my HFI-780s and I don't have the box with documentation handy, so I'm hoping that these are covered. I got them probably 8 months...

In, since I'm the other Rose guy

Anyone done any headband mods yet? That leather "block" on the top is painful after an hour. I just ordered a HD580 pad, and am going to try and see what I can do with that.

Love my SE530s. Built a Mini^3 for it and I actually look forward to being stuck somewhere away from home with nothing to do but listen to them I chose them over the triple.fi because of comfort.

I want the hd580

30gig 5th gen iPod > DIY LOD > DIY Mini^3 > Shure SE530PTH Btw, has anyone come up with any "clean" ways of mounting and amp to it's source? I have these tabs on the back of the my iPod from the iSkin case, and I'm trying to come up with a way to make them latch onto the Mini^3 case.

Quote: Originally Posted by joneeboi Resistors can go in either way. The only orientation you may want to consider is which direction you'd like to read the colour bars, from left to right or from right to left. Either way they go in, they will work. You know, I just reread that...

Quote: Originally Posted by joneeboi Resistors can go in either way. The only orientation you may want to consider is which direction you'd like to read the colour bars, from left to right or from right to left. Either way they go in, they will work. Oh alright. Thanks!

Quote: Originally Posted by amb No. That cap is merely a small filter/decoupling cap in front of the voltage regulators and the capacitance is not critical. I spec'ed 10uF/25V because it is the largest tantalum that would comfortably fit within that footprint and not cost an arm and a...

Quote: Originally Posted by amb If you must get something from RatShack, use the 1uF/35V tantalum. Don't use the 16V rated one because the wallwart could output more than 16V and tantalums often catch fire/explode when its ratings are exceeded (or if the polarity is reversed)...

Sorry for the threadjack, but I just realized I forgot C2, the tantalum cap. Is there something I can sub for it (maybe a 100uF 25V electrolytic (C5) or a 1uF 35V tant/10uF 16V tant from ratshack)?

Quote: Originally Posted by ajames I've also been wondering about the difficulty factor of a mini^3. Also been wondering about the costs of building one ... anyone? I just ordered my parts. Total was around $75 with all the shipping.

Quote: Originally Posted by Woobies What kind of bass do they produce? Thanks for the replies! It has a hell of an impact, and it can be fatiguing for some. Doesn't bother me at all though; love the hard hits, it makes everything come alive.