bigshot
Headphoneus Supremus
Yah, it took a lot of trial and error because there were presets that were undocumented. The same goes for the image adjustment. Controls on TVs aren’t as easy to pin down as they used to be.
With my large OLED with my HT, I calibrated it with some test clips I bought (for both HDR10 and Dolby Vision content). At least that TV is pretty nice in that apart from brightness, contrast, OLED light, there's also RGB channels. I could even fine tune color temperature to be exact. The smaller OLED I have in my bedroom is newer. I don't like it's menu as much...and it doesn't have all the picture modes my large OLED has (it has some Technicolor modes that are more specific to SDR and HDR10 content). The newer OLED has a "Filmmaker Mode": which advertises as being the most accurate and the intent of the director. Whatever: I'm not aware of movies having any new metadata for a "filmmaker mode"...just that HDR10 is good for basic HDR and Dolby Vision could have some more accuracy because it's 12bit space dynamically being tone-mapped to 10bit. The bedroom TV looks good as is, but I don't spend time doing critical viewing of movies.Yah, it took a lot of trial and error because there were presets that were undocumented. The same goes for the image adjustment. Controls on TVs aren’t as easy to pin down as they used to be.
@Davesrose already kind of said it, but maybe this is a little bit clearer:DTS X Neural, which is apparently DTS’s version of Atmos.
Both DTS:X and Atmos are considered object based. Both are similar with consumer video in that the audio track has a 5/7.1 stream and a dynamic object stream. So a DTS:X track is also handled the same-if you have a receiver that supports DTS:X, it will read both the 7.1 stream and object stream to render a 3D environment. If your receiver doesn't support DTS:X, it will just see the 7.1 stream and play as DTS-MA. I'm going ahead and just saying DTS-MA (DTS's lossless) because the main medium that has DTS:X are a few UHD disc movies. Atmos is by far the more popular format, so 3D audio streaming is all DD+ Atmos.Just now I read there is a difference though: DTS X is purely object based, I guess that means it doesn't use a channel bed like Atmos does?)
You can’t toggle Dolby Vision off or on. The video is either Dolby Vision or it’s not.Dolby Vision is a pain in the ass. I have to toggle it on or off manually. I don’t see any improvement using it, so I keep that off.
Again, the actual video has a video track that's either Dolby Vision, HDR10, or no HDR. There is no switching them on or off: it's how the video is encoded. Most 4K TVs support Dolby Vision now (there were some Samsung and Sony TVs that opted for HDR10+ instead of Dolby Vision). For those TVs, they read it as HDR10. But for Dolby Vision TVs, they decode the video in Dolby Vision. If you change your TV's picture modes, they have different color, brightness, and frame interpretation settings (that you can try going further down to adjust those settings). Maybe you have a TV that has a "Dolby Vision" mode that's available when you're watching a title that's Dolby Vision instead of HDR. But if you switch to a different mode, the source is still Dolby Vision. If you use a streaming service, you'll see a title will be listed as Dolby Vision or it will be HDR. If it's a Dolby Vision signal, the TV is decoding Dolby Vision. If the title is listed as HDR, the TV is decoding it as HDR10.My tv set requires manually turning Dolby vision on for each play. It’s deep in the menus, and after looking at a Dolby vision movie with and without, it just isn’t worth it. The difference is negligible and I prefer my settings in some respects to the Dolby vision defaults.
There are so many settings in sets nowadays that aren’t defined about what they do exactly, and there are so many variations as to how the individual tv sets implements them, it’s like learning all over again every time you get a new tv.