Home-Made IEMs
May 19, 2024 at 9:42 AM Post #16,066 of 16,072
Yes, it is a vent, I added a Red dumber at the end of that vent, and it works very well. For testing purposes I covered all the tubes inculding the vent then I had low freq, then I uncovered one tube from the nozzle and the low freq was gone(without removing the vent cover).
Definitely sounds like a bass leak through one or more of your other tubes as well, in that case. This is why adding dampers to the BA's helps - the dampers limit how much bass can escape through the BA sound tubes.
I'd leave the DD vent closed and check two more things: are the BA's sealed against their tube entrance holes (to prevent leaks around the nozzle)? Is the entire earpiece closed and well sealed, or is it open to the outside air?
 
May 20, 2024 at 3:21 AM Post #16,067 of 16,072
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the help!

Coming back with the final product:
Left CIEM 5BA's(destroyed one while soldering, it will be changed in near feature) 4EST and one DD and a green dumber for the BA's
Right CIEM 6 BA's 4 EST one DD.
As a crossover I have a low pass, high pass and a band pass for one of the ba's.
It still need to do some small adjustments but for now I am happy with the result(had an eq on and because of that I had that bass, the CIEMs still have bass without EQ)
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May 21, 2024 at 5:02 PM Post #16,068 of 16,072
I have the usound amp for a desktop / tuning solution, but planning to use the guts from some Fauna audio glasses for wireless and see how that sounds. I may need to revive an old cell phone to get access to a functioning Fauna app, haven't quite gotten that far yet. Finding a case and a battery for the usound amp would require big pockets to carry around, but is possible.
You won't need the app to use Fauna :)
The Fauna glasses use a TI LM48580 amplifier, you can easily get a dev board of that one.
Though there are more performant solutions (less distortion, more stable DC supply) now, like USound's UC-P3010 amplifier. XMEMS also have an amplifier (Aptos) that can be used very similarily (with very similar performance too)
(sorry for the somewhat necropost)
 
May 23, 2024 at 2:28 AM Post #16,069 of 16,072
Hi guys . Please can any one tell me the right way of measuring a ciem with microphone? Ill show you some pictures, please tell me, which one is more accurate.
On the first picture, i placed it really close .

I asked, because first example gave me different frequency response from the second picture example.
 

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May 23, 2024 at 2:42 AM Post #16,070 of 16,072
Hi guys . Please can any one tell me the right way of measuring a ciem with microphone? Ill show you some pictures, please tell me, which one is more accurate.
On the first picture, i placed it really close .

I asked, because first example gave me different frequency response from the second picture example.
I think you have to leave the adapter on while measuring (like you did in pic 2).
The distance from the actual small microphone inside the coupler and the IEM should simulate that of the ear canal - eardrum volume range (~2cc).
Try to put the adapter on and isolate with some bluetack the part where the adapter connects to the coupler body to prevent any leakage and see if the measurement changes from the one that you did in the 2nd pic the first time.
 
May 23, 2024 at 8:52 AM Post #16,071 of 16,072
Hi guys . Please can any one tell me the right way of measuring a ciem with microphone? Ill show you some pictures, please tell me, which one is more accurate.
On the first picture, i placed it really close .

I asked, because first example gave me different frequency response from the second picture example.
My own logic, is to insert the CIEM nozzle tip is the as close as or a bit more then the front of the UIEM tip. CIEM insert depth more like UIEM with triple flange ear tip.
 
May 23, 2024 at 8:53 AM Post #16,072 of 16,072
Hey everyone! Can a DD with broken wires be fixed? The wires that run along the side of it, protected by glue, the tiny ones that connect to the diaphragm.
I was carefully trying to extract the driver of the TRN Conch, I may have melted the glue by heating it too much or maybe I accidentally nicked that area with the blade, but they don't work now, no sound.

I know it's a super crucial and delicate part so I understand if it's irrecoverable but I wonder if anyone has had any success resoldering or rewiring... They were cool drivers :frowning2:
Haha thanks in advance and sorry if this has been asked before, couldn't find it
 

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