[JTbbb]

Thank you! born from the desire (OCD) to not see a single screw, bolt on the surface when I was sat down looking at it. I just never realised how much work it would involve to achieve it . But it's all good now

It's twin will be leaving me this weekend... not an identical one as it's burgundy it colour! Enough time to squeeze in a few more coats of Project 64, a super slick polymer coating!

Once I have my new amp settled in I shall post a couple of pictures, though they won’t be as professional as Toonartist’s! Very much looking forward to tomorrow.

 

[Toonartist]

Once I have my new amp settled in I shall post a couple of pictures, though they won’t be as professional as Toonartist’s! Very much looking forward to tomorrow.

Not long now…. It’s still running at the moment… not far off 50hrs for you. Then I’ll be packing it up ready for it’s car journey tomorrow

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Going to work on getting a tube compatibility spreadsheet started today, I'll link it when I'm done. I'll also add some other useful information to my reserved post on the first page of the thread page, like dimensions, weight (46lbs), output impedance, anything else that would be useful to know for new or potential buyers.

 

[Toonartist]

@L0rdGwyn Talking of tube compatibility... while it's possible to use Mullard ECC35 in place of the 6SL7.... and I feel this is a long shot, but is it possible to use ECC34?!? I have a feeling not but thought I'd ask!

 

[L0rdGwyn]

@L0rdGwyn Talking of tube compatibility... while it's possible to use Mullard ECC35 in place of the 6SL7.... and I feel this is a long shot, but is it possible to use ECC34?!? I have a feeling not but thought I'd ask!

No that one isn't going to work, only has a mu of 11.5, not enough gain for Aegis. Also biases at much higher currents than a 6SL7, which is bad for the anode chokes.

 

[ckhirnigs113]

Excuse my ignorance, but on a tube like the EL38, could someone explain the cap that goes on top of the tube and has the wire coming off of it? Does this cap and wire come with the tube, or is it something you have to buy separately? Does the wire connect to one of the pins on the bottom of the tube? What I'm trying to say is I really have no experience with these types of tubes.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Excuse my ignorance, but on a tube like the EL38, could someone explain the cap that goes on top of the tube and has the wire coming off of it? Does this cap and wire come with the tube, or is it something you have to buy separately? Does the wire connect to one of the pins on the bottom of the tube? What I'm trying to say is I really have no experience with these types of tubes.

EL38 requires an adapter. The adapter must include a wire to go to the top cap. The top cap is the plate / anode of the tube. It's a high voltage connection, so anyone using adapters for tubes with anode top caps (e.g., EL38, EL39, 807) should NEVER touch the top cap while the amp is on. There will be 250-270V on that lead (maybe lower depending on the rectifier being used). With the cap on, there should be no exposed metal, but don't go poking around or you might get a nasty zap.

 

[miter53]

Excuse my ignorance, but on a tube like the EL38, could someone explain the cap that goes on top of the tube and has the wire coming off of it? Does this cap and wire come with the tube, or is it something you have to buy separately? Does the wire connect to one of the pins on the bottom of the tube? What I'm trying to say is I really have no experience with these types of tubes.

The top cap is the plate connection for the tube, and an adapter is required to provide a wire from the top cap to the appropriate pin on the tube socket. Note that this is a high voltage connection, and having high voltage outside the chassis poses some risk.

 

[ckhirnigs113]

The top cap is the plate connection for the tube, and an adapter is required to provide a wire from the top cap to the appropriate pin on the tube socket. Note that this is a high voltage connection, and having high voltage outside the chassis poses some risk.

Thanks for the info! I didn't notice that the adapter included the cap and wire. Would the correct adapter type be a EL34>EL38 to use in the Aegis?

 

[miter53]

Thanks for the info! I didn't notice that the adapter included the cap and wire. Would the correct adapter type be a EL34>EL38 to use in the Aegis?

Yes. I should mention that the EL39, which is often available on EB and elsewhere, has a different pinout from the EL38, and requires a different adapter.

 

[AnyDave]

EL38 requires an adapter. The adapter must include a wire to go to the top cap. The top cap is the plate / anode of the tube. It's a high voltage connection, so anyone using adapters for tubes with anode top caps (e.g., EL38, EL39, 807) should NEVER touch the top cap while the amp is on. There will be 250-270V on that lead (maybe lower depending on the rectifier being used). With the cap on, there should be no exposed metal, but don't go poking around or you might get a nasty zap.

Ah, so that's where the old adage "never lick the anode cap" comes from.

 

[Toonartist]

Ah, so that's where the old adage "never lick the anode cap" comes from.

lol I was thinking the same thing just before I scrolled down and seen your post

 

[ckhirnigs113]

I was looking at a pair of the red base RCA 5691s, and one is missing the centering pin on the bottom of the tube. The seller said it is fully functional. Is this true, or should I look for another pair of tubes?

 

[L0rdGwyn]

I was looking at a pair of the red base RCA 5691s, and one is missing the centering pin on the bottom of the tube. The seller said it is fully functional. Is this true, or should I look for another pair of tubes?

It's true but you have to be careful because you no longer have the guide pin to make sure the tube is properly oriented. There are ways to fix it or add a guide pin, but again if the tube is put in the socket in the wrong orientation it could damage the amp. That would only go for that if you're getting a serious discount.

 

[JTbbb]

Going to work on getting a tube compatibility spreadsheet started today, I'll link it when I'm done. I'll also add some other useful information to my reserved post on the first page of the thread page, like dimensions, weight (46lbs), output impedance, anything else that would be useful to know for new or potential buyers.

Tubewise, I guess this compatibility spreadsheet wouldn’t quite correlate with the DIY Aegis. Obviously the 3 amp rectifier’s, but how would this impact on the other tube choices?