Zero Audio - ZH-DX200 Carbo Tenore | ZH-DX210 Carbo Basso (Carbon & Aluminium IEM) thread
Jul 21, 2014 at 9:01 AM Post #3,768 of 6,090
   
X2 on not being an expert... and X2 on the sound reflections. At least unless there's some kind of tapering behind the plate, which I doubt. So, the 6mm driver is likely facing a flat surface with only about 1mm wide opening, meaning that >95% of emitted sound waves will be reflected back from the plate.
 
Still, just a guess and I could be wrong. But the main difference to earfonia is that I'm hearing the congestion and speculating on its cause.

I'm guessing it's the plate covering the driver on the sound emitting side.  What you mention is a good point as I recently read through Rin's analysis on the Fitear F111.
 
He states that the treble response is less peakier because the gain as you will or the amplification of the sound which is done from the difference of the diaphram or the diamter of the body to the diameter of the sound outlet transistion is gradual.  Let me restate, the large diameter associated with the diaphram gradually minimizing in diameter creates a much stable treble.  But, then again, I've seen so many abrupt sizing changes.  Even the ER4 does that.  But yeah, that small outlet looks to restrict the energy though.  It would be interesting to swap that out and see what it does to the overall sound sig, but I think the gain will be lost in the process.  The purpose of narrowing it down was to increase the gain.  If it was gradual of course, the better stability in the treble.
 
http://rinchoi.blogspot.ca/2013/06/suyama-fit-ear-f111.html
horn.jpg

 
sign.png

CodeCogsEqn.gif
 
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 9:24 AM Post #3,771 of 6,090
Jul 21, 2014 at 9:53 AM Post #3,772 of 6,090
  I'm guessing it's the plate covering the driver on the sound emitting side.  What you mention is a good point as I recently read through Rin's analysis on the Fitear F111.
 
He states that the treble response is less peakier because the gain as you will or the amplification of the sound which is done from the difference of the diaphram or the diamter of the body to the diameter of the sound outlet transistion is gradual.  Let me restate, the large diameter associated with the diaphram gradually minimizing in diameter creates a much stable treble.  But, then again, I've seen so many abrupt sizing changes.  Even the ER4 does that.  But yeah, that small outlet looks to restrict the energy though.  It would be interesting to swap that out and see what it does to the overall sound sig, but I think the gain will be lost in the process.  The purpose of narrowing it down was to increase the gain.  If it was gradual of course, the better stability in the treble.

 
Thanks for this info. Funny that the Tenore's treble sounds actually very smooth. Like I said before, it's entirely possible that I'm barking up the wrong tree.
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 11:30 AM Post #3,774 of 6,090
Jul 21, 2014 at 12:31 PM Post #3,775 of 6,090
The whole album is one song and is 44 minutes long. I usually loop it and burn in one hour intervals, then play it regular volume through my DAP for several hours, then back to the loop for another hour interval, and I'll do this for 24-72 hours, then it goes to 100 hours just listening through DAP.


Does it matter whether using a lossy version rather than an FLAC version?
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 12:31 PM Post #3,776 of 6,090
I confirm about heat gun, it helped me few years ago to open Xcape v1 housings.
 
Quote:
Looking into it he is refering to the horn's diameter increasing to add gain. So its not diaphram to outlet so not related and also the f111 is BA.


See Rin's explanation about RHA Aerophonic design :
In short, Aerophonic™ Design utilizes end-correction effect of a reverse-horn, and effectively attenuates the high frequency range. Consequently, an accurate frequency response shaping is possible once the horn is combined with a proper design.

 
http://rinchoi.blogspot.fr/2013/10/rha-ma750-part2-general-analysis.html
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 1:10 PM Post #3,777 of 6,090
 
Funny you should mention this.
 
I just picked up a pair or RE-400's and a pair of Tenore's today on my local audio classifieds. I also believe I received a pair of reference Tenore's, because there is a definitely a lack of bass compared to the RE-400's.
 
The Tenores are MUCH MORE ACCURATE than the RE-400's. I was listening to Adele - Lovesong and HOLY CRAP, the instrument separation and soundstage? blow the RE-400's out of the water. The Tenore's are much more neutral than the RE-400's though and aren't nearly as fun, but the RE-400's seem very warm to the point that it muffles instruments and even voices to an extent (especially in Adele - Lovesong). Mid bass is much better on the RE-400's I find.
 
I've only put about 2 hours on the RE-400's and about 30 minutes on the Tenore's though. If accuracy, clarity and instrument separation is your thing, the Tenore's are definitely your best bet. I have alot more listening to do. I do like the warmth of the RE-400's, but I am going to listen to some different music including classical to compare soon and I'm sure the Tenore's are going to kick arse for this.
 
Also it seems the Tenore's are a little harder to drive. Not much, but a little.
 
Honestly, if you can put the accuracy, instrument separation and detail from the Tenore's with the mid bass, bass extension and a little warmth from the RE-400's into one package, I would sell my soul to the devil to own a pair.
 
I'm so confused because I want to 24/7 the Tenore's because of the clarity, but it's just not quite as fun as the RE-400's.. I am torn....
 
Oh and KC06's are on the way. May grab a pair of GR07's to compare also from the same guy I bought the RE-400's and Tenore's from.

 
I found the Tenores to sound bigger than the RE-400 with more sub-bass, more 3D, and more fun sounding.  I guess mine is bassier than yours.
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 3:28 PM Post #3,778 of 6,090
Finally got myself a magnifier lamp and things are looking a lot better now...
 
Test #1: removed the foam and left the back vent completely open. Result: my bassy pair sounds, ermm, bassy. There's actually little to no difference to its stock sound.
 
Test #2: covered the entire vent with blu-tack. Vent is completely closed. Result: my blu-tacked "bassy" pair sounds significantly less bassy now than my "reference" pair.
 
Conclusions?
popcorn.gif

 

 
Jul 21, 2014 at 3:47 PM Post #3,779 of 6,090
I teresting. I have a bad case of cable failure coming up i'm guessing. If anyone remembers the set i superglued in an attempt to lower the bass... Well look at this.



Not the best photo, but the cable has come out of the housing a good amount. You can see the glue is lower down the cable. I can also easily push the cable back into the housing,

Here's my issue... I've barely used these. I have been using my other set. These haven't been slept on, yanked or anything. Just gently used and gently wrapped and stored in their pouch. That doesn't seem good to me. It also shows that the superglue obviously didn't get into the groove or bond well. Cheap crap.
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 3:58 PM Post #3,780 of 6,090
  Finally got myself a magnifier lamp and things are looking a lot better now...
 
Test #1: removed the foam and left the back vent completely open. Result: my bassy pair sounds, ermm, bassy. There's actually little to no difference to its stock sound.
 
Test #2: covered the entire vent with blu-tack. Vent is completely closed. Result: my blu-tacked "bassy" pair sounds significantly less bassy now than my "reference" pair.
 
Conclusions?
popcorn.gif

 
Thanks James, we finally know what causes the variations!
 
How much less bassy are we talking about with blu-tack? Are they neutral or bass light? Is there any effect on the soundstage? Have you tried it with your drums test track?
 

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