DefQon
Headphoneus Supremus
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Yay to the two posters above fixing the problems with there Stax.
The Stax thread (New)
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Yeah, I may have to follow their lead and get to work on my normal bias lambdas. I need to replace the foam in the earpeaice and one of the gimbles has a crack. Been a little leary of tearing them a part to do the work as they 'work' just fine as they are...
But it would be nice to 're-furb' the old dudes. Now just need to get the parts....
But it would be nice to 're-furb' the old dudes. Now just need to get the parts....
NamelessPFG
Headphoneus Supremus
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Quote:
I also give my congrats, seeing as my SR-303 driver re-gluing attempt still resulted in a very imbalanced headphone in spite of my best attempts, and I definitely don't feel like tearing down that SR-Gamma's drivers and rebuilding them so they sound balanced. (Especially when the Gamma frame's shallow earcups make for a very uncomfortable experience compared to the Lambda frame's deep earpads.)
Quote:
In all likeliness, you won't find any replacement foam, just newer Lambda pads with cloth in the foam's place.
As for the gimbals having a crack, that bites, especially with vintage Lambda headband/arc assemblies being in shorter supply...but it's said that if you can pull out the bits that the vintage headband/arc forks socket into, then you'll be left with a hole large enough for the pins of the newer Nova/numerical arc forks. Whether you can tolerate the higher clamping force is another question entirely.
I also give my congrats, seeing as my SR-303 driver re-gluing attempt still resulted in a very imbalanced headphone in spite of my best attempts, and I definitely don't feel like tearing down that SR-Gamma's drivers and rebuilding them so they sound balanced. (Especially when the Gamma frame's shallow earcups make for a very uncomfortable experience compared to the Lambda frame's deep earpads.)
Quote:
In all likeliness, you won't find any replacement foam, just newer Lambda pads with cloth in the foam's place.
As for the gimbals having a crack, that bites, especially with vintage Lambda headband/arc assemblies being in shorter supply...but it's said that if you can pull out the bits that the vintage headband/arc forks socket into, then you'll be left with a hole large enough for the pins of the newer Nova/numerical arc forks. Whether you can tolerate the higher clamping force is another question entirely.
itshot
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I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I just don't have the time to look this up atm...
I'm thinking of trying my hand at my first stax setup just to get a taste of what stats are like - I'm thinking sr-lambda. So my question is, what is a decent/going price for a used sr-lambda with the srd adapter?
I'm thinking of trying my hand at my first stax setup just to get a taste of what stats are like - I'm thinking sr-lambda. So my question is, what is a decent/going price for a used sr-lambda with the srd adapter?
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probably around 300 if you can find one
livewire
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Quote:
$300 to $400.
IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.
$300 to $400.
IMO it would be better to go with a more modern "pro bias" setup like the SR-2050.
That would be the SR-202 headphone + the SRM-252S amp. Used, about $400 to $500.
milosz
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Ahhh, that makes perfect sense. The DYNAMIC headphone jack on the Ampzilla would have the usual series resistors, and the ELECTROSTATIC jack would either have smaller resistors or NO resistors. The ESP-6 really could NOT be driven from a normal headphone jack to any decent level, what a silly idea to put transformers inside the earcups and a standard 1/4" TRS plug on the things....
Ahhh, that makes perfect sense. The DYNAMIC headphone jack on the Ampzilla would have the usual series resistors, and the ELECTROSTATIC jack would either have smaller resistors or NO resistors. The ESP-6 really could NOT be driven from a normal headphone jack to any decent level, what a silly idea to put transformers inside the earcups and a standard 1/4" TRS plug on the things....
oogabooga
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spritzer
Member of the Trade: Mjölnir Audio
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The ESP6 is nothing if not a torture device. At almost 1kg, a tiny headband and ample clamping force it's not a pleasant experience. Sounds like crap too compared to a Stax SR-1 or SR-3 of the same vintage.
The ESP6 is nothing if not a torture device. At almost 1kg, a tiny headband and ample clamping force it's not a pleasant experience. Sounds like crap too compared to a Stax SR-1 or SR-3 of the same vintage.
Mr.Sneis
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SRM-717. Anyone have a way to explain exactly how the "loop/parallel" function works AND about the RCA/XLR switch? The other night it really took me for a spin, kinda hard to describe other than it did not work as I would predict in any way shape or form. IE the RCA/XLR switch really didn't do much of anything and at one point I think the loop was working as I would expect it to then after a power cycle it did not. It was really late and a long day however...
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Quote:
Quote:
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This is good advice but some of the old low bias Stax are interesting, especially the SR5, SRXIII and Sigma. The first 2 you might get cheap.
However the Sigmas keep going up. This guy's asking 849 Euros for a pro, about $1,100.00. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-Sigma-Professional-580-V-5-Pin-/300875031852?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item460d8ca52c That's a deal because this guy's asking $1,299.00 for a normal bias model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-minor-headband-problem-/121084184659?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c312e0853 .
Quote:
Quote:
This is good advice but some of the old low bias Stax are interesting, especially the SR5, SRXIII and Sigma. The first 2 you might get cheap.
However the Sigmas keep going up. This guy's asking 849 Euros for a pro, about $1,100.00. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stax-SR-Sigma-Professional-580-V-5-Pin-/300875031852?pt=Kopfh%C3%B6rer&hash=item460d8ca52c That's a deal because this guy's asking $1,299.00 for a normal bias model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAX-SR-SIGMA-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-minor-headband-problem-/121084184659?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c312e0853 .
Michgelsen
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Quote:
Important to know is that the amp has in fact only one input. This means:
- there can only be one source connected to the amp at any time.
- the switch is not an actual selector such as you would find on a preamp, or on certain Stax tube amps. It simply provides the option to use either RCA or XLR for maximum compatibility; you cannot use both at the same time.
The loop/parallel function works simply by connecting the two pairs of RCA connectors of the amp to each other. If you were to open up the amp, you would see that both terminals for each channel are soldered together (left to left, and right to right). In essence, this is nothing more than a splitter behind the casing. Here the same rule applies: there can only be one source connected at a time. It also follows that it doesn't matter to which of the two pairs that source is connected. Both pairs are connected anyway. When using a splitter it also doesn't matter which cable goes where exactly. Additionally, this 'splitter' is completely passive and therefore it works even when the amplifier is turned off.
Important to know is that the amp has in fact only one input. This means:
- there can only be one source connected to the amp at any time.
- the switch is not an actual selector such as you would find on a preamp, or on certain Stax tube amps. It simply provides the option to use either RCA or XLR for maximum compatibility; you cannot use both at the same time.
The loop/parallel function works simply by connecting the two pairs of RCA connectors of the amp to each other. If you were to open up the amp, you would see that both terminals for each channel are soldered together (left to left, and right to right). In essence, this is nothing more than a splitter behind the casing. Here the same rule applies: there can only be one source connected at a time. It also follows that it doesn't matter to which of the two pairs that source is connected. Both pairs are connected anyway. When using a splitter it also doesn't matter which cable goes where exactly. Additionally, this 'splitter' is completely passive and therefore it works even when the amplifier is turned off.
DefQon
Headphoneus Supremus
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That guy phonitor recently had his name changed from musicshen who is someone banned from here for massively flipping sales. Supposedly those Sigma's were purchased from another user in this thread for almost half the price.
That guy phonitor recently had his name changed from musicshen who is someone banned from here for massively flipping sales. Supposedly those Sigma's were purchased from another user in this thread for almost half the price.
autoteleology
Formerly known as Tus-Chan
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Show me some proof of this and I'll shoot off a message to the seller. I hate flippers, they're leeches on the hobby.
dukeskd
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Not sure your message is going to help, he's been doing this for a long time now.
Not sure your message is going to help, he's been doing this for a long time now.
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