[DavidA]

   
I really appreciate your reply! You bring up very good points - I will do some reading on the other suggestions and see what I can come up with. As for the LCD-2, I worry about the weight. It's hard to tell, though, because all of my headphones (K7XX, DT990, HE-560) are pretty lightweight in comparison. 
 
You made an interesting point about the TH900. They're harder to find and especially harder to find a good deal, but I had considered the Massdrop TH-X00. I wonder if it's in the same league as the TH900. I'll read up on that as well. Anyway, lots of fun headphones out there and I really wish I had an unlimited budget. In truth, the only thing that brought me wanting for these was the deals I've been seeing in the classifieds. I'm 100% satisfied with my HE-560, but, I want to try more of the classics! 
 
-Collin-

Hi Collin,
I have all of these headphones and a Project Ember.  The T1.1 is a similar sound to the HE-560 as @thatonenoob mentioned and if looking for something to compliment the HE-560 I would suggest TH-600/900 (very fun with great bass) or the HD-650 for a very forgiving headphone that will scale with better gear.  FWIW I use a BH Crack for the T1, HD-800 and HD-650 and a Lyr2 for the HE-560, the Ember is great but I think the BH Crack for the T1 is a better pairing and the Lyr2 has a slightly fuller sound with the HE-560.  The TH-600 is easy to drive and the Ember will work quite well with it.
 
As for Grado's, I have a RS2e, SR-225e (mooded), woody SR-225i, SennGrado, and Ypsilon dirver build.  Very different from the above and highly recommend as complimentary headphones.

 

[SeeSax]

  Hi Collin,
I have all of these headphones and a Project Ember.  The T1.1 is a similar sound to the HE-560 as @thatonenoob mentioned and if looking for something to compliment the HE-560 I would suggest TH-600/900 (very fun with great bass) or the HD-650 for a very forgiving headphone that will scale with better gear.  FWIW I use a BH Crack for the T1, HD-800 and HD-650 and a Lyr2 for the HE-560, the Ember is great but I think the BH Crack for the T1 is a better pairing and the Lyr2 has a slightly fuller sound with the HE-560.  The TH-600 is easy to drive and the Ember will work quite well with it.
 
As for Grado's, I have a RS2e, SR-225e (mooded), woody SR-225i, SennGrado, and Ypsilon dirver build.  Very different from the above and highly recommend as complimentary headphones.

 
This is extremely helpful - thank you! I already bought the T1, but it's sort of a no-brainer at $400 so I will be happy with adding it to my collection I think. 
 
I will look into those amps. Was the Ember under-powered for the T1? I noticed that it drops down to around 390mW at 600 ohms and I'm sure there are better amps out there to deliver power for that kind of resistance. I actually bought the Ember because it powers the HE-560 quite well (though I have no real comparisons) given that they are a lower ohm rating and just not very sensitive. 
 
Out of curiosity, what DAC do you use?
 
Anyway, thank you!
 
-Collin-

 

[DavidA]

   
This is extremely helpful - thank you! I already bought the T1, but it's sort of a no-brainer at $400 so I will be happy with adding it to my collection I think. 
 
I will look into those amps. Was the Ember under-powered for the T1? I noticed that it drops down to around 390mW at 600 ohms and I'm sure there are better amps out there to deliver power for that kind of resistance. I actually bought the Ember because it powers the HE-560 quite well (though I have no real comparisons) given that they are a lower ohm rating and just not very sensitive. 
 
Out of curiosity, what DAC do you use?
 
Anyway, thank you!
 
-Collin-

The Ember has lots of power for the T1, its more that the BH Crack is a slightly better match to it IMO.  The BH Crack has slightly smoother highs and the bass is a touch more full, if I didn't hear them back to back quickly then it would be hard to say which is better.
 
With the HE-560 the Lyr2 is a more noticeable difference versus the Ember, sound stage and bass is where I notice the differences most.
 
The DAC's that I have are Bifrost MB & Uber, UD-301, and Modi2uber, still looking for a new DAC since I've heard a few better ones like MHDT Pagoda, Metrum Musette and Audio GD Master 7.

 

[mtoc]

still no news or even non news about the T2?

 

[thatonenoob]

  still no news or even non news about the T2?

There's a T2?  So far I've only heard of the T1.2

 

[mtoc]

  There's a T2?  So far I've only heard of the T1.2

 
Right now I'm listening to the T1.2 and still wanna know if they're gonna design a $4k cans.

 

[thatonenoob]

   
Right now I'm listening to the T1.2 and still wanna know if they're gonna design a $4k cans.

Doubt it.  Probably more focused on refreshing the 880 and the T70/T90.  Imo, not every can needs to be 4K.  Price tag isn't correlated to performance, and without a doubt we shouldn't go about designing our cans around being 4K.  Instead, seek to build something worthy - and if it costs 4K, then it will at least be justified.

 

[vlach]

Right now I'm listening to the T1.2 and still wanna know if they're gonna design a $4k cans.

Don't give them any ideas...

 

[Faildus Prime]

Hi all,
 
Just thought I'd post this to help anyone who might want to disassemble the sliding kits off of the T1's for whatever reason.

I am able to remove the outer cover, by sliding in 2 pieces of thin plastic (i.e. credit cards, etc) cut to 1.5cm width; between the outer cover and the internal slider piece.
Once fully wedged in there, it will flex the outer cover enough to disengage the clips and allow the outer cover to be slid down and off. This should not result in the clips being damaged, but I wouldn't recommend doing it multiple times though.

This shows how the slider pieces somewhat disassembled:
https://s4.postimg.org/qbnylrrlp/IMG_6110+[1280x768].jpg
 
This shows how I placed the plastic strips to disengage the clips and slide the outer cover off:
https://s4.postimg.org/7i25ortdp/IMG_6108+[1280x768].jpg
 
 
Cheers

 

[thatonenoob]

6

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this to help anyone who might want to disassemble the sliding kits off of the T1's for whatever reason.


I am able to remove the outer cover, by sliding in 2 pieces of thin plastic (i.e. credit cards, etc) cut to 1.5cm width; between the outer cover and the internal slider piece.

Once fully wedged in there, it will flex the outer cover enough to disengage the clips and allow the outer cover to be slid down and off. This should not result in the clips being damaged, but I wouldn't recommend doing it multiple times though.


This shows how the slider pieces somewhat disassembled:
https://s4.postimg.org/qbnylrrlp/IMG_6110+[1280x768].jpg

This shows how I placed the plastic strips to disengage the clips and slide the outer cover off:
https://s4.postimg.org/7i25ortdp/IMG_6108+[1280x768].jpg


Cheers

Hey this is a great resource and thanks for sharing. I think the modders around here will be very happy.

 

[SeeSax]

  The Ember has lots of power for the T1, its more that the BH Crack is a slightly better match to it IMO.  The BH Crack has slightly smoother highs and the bass is a touch more full, if I didn't hear them back to back quickly then it would be hard to say which is better.
 
With the HE-560 the Lyr2 is a more noticeable difference versus the Ember, sound stage and bass is where I notice the differences most.
 
The DAC's that I have are Bifrost MB & Uber, UD-301, and Modi2uber, still looking for a new DAC since I've heard a few better ones like MHDT Pagoda, Metrum Musette and Audio GD Master 7.

 
David, have you ever tried the Parasound ZDac as a DAC for the T1s (or any other headphones)? That is what I'm currently using and while it sounds great with brighter headphones, I do not feel it is the most detailed listening experience as I mentioned over in the Ember thread. 
 
-Collin-

 

[DavidA]

   
David, have you ever tried the Parasound ZDac as a DAC for the T1s (or any other headphones)? That is what I'm currently using and while it sounds great with brighter headphones, I do not feel it is the most detailed listening experience as I mentioned over in the Ember thread. 
 
-Collin-

Sorry Collin, I haven't heard a Parasound ZDac but after reading about it its a DAC with mixed reviews so I think it might be a preferred sound type or even a difference of applications (speakers vs headphones).  The T1 is such a resolving headphone that it responds to changes in your audio chain quite readily.  If are able to get to meets or can get from a dealer with a good return policy then I would try out a few other DACs.  Hard to go wrong with Bifrost 4490 for the price but I still like the UD-301 better due to its slightly better dynamics it provides for my system.

 

[eeagle]

   
David, have you ever tried the Parasound ZDac as a DAC for the T1s (or any other headphones)? That is what I'm currently using and while it sounds great with brighter headphones, I do not feel it is the most detailed listening experience as I mentioned over in the Ember thread. 
 
-Collin-

I have the Zdac and have used it without a problem with my T1's.  It is a beautiful piece of equipment with an outstanding stable power supply, balanced outputs and a dedicated headphone stage.  The Zdac accepts 24-bit/192kHz signals through both SPDIF inputs by way of an AKM AK4113 receiver. USB signals are handled by a TI TAS1020B which is an older USB 1.1 part rather than USB 2.0 and thus necessarily limited to 24-bit/96kHz signals;  these signals are reclocked and then upsampled to 422 kHz for vivid and effortless reproduction.  In summation old school technology done well.  The newer v2 has one both 3.5mm and 6.3mm headphone jacks making it even more versatile.
 
Does it sound better or worse than other sources I have?....well you're getting into that subjective DAC Amp and cable area that even with a lot of A/B listening is quite a tough call IMO.

 

[SeeSax]

  I have the Zdac and have used it without a problem with my T1's.  It is a beautiful piece of equipment with an outstanding stable power supply, balanced outputs and a dedicated headphone stage.  The Zdac accepts 24-bit/192kHz signals through both SPDIF inputs by way of an AKM AK4113 receiver. USB signals are handled by a TI TAS1020B which is an older USB 1.1 part rather than USB 2.0 and thus necessarily limited to 24-bit/96kHz signals;  these signals are reclocked and then upsampled to 422 kHz for vivid and effortless reproduction.  In summation old school technology done well.  The newer v2 has one both 3.5mm and 6.3mm headphone jacks making it even more versatile.
 
Does it sound better or worse than other sources I have?....well you're getting into that subjective DAC Amp and cable area that even with a lot of A/B listening is quite a tough call IMO.

 
Thanks for those detailed impressions - much appreciated. The T1s can't come in the mail soon enough! Lots of fun testing on my end. I really should just sit back and enjoy the music too
 
-Collin-

 

[Thenewguy007]

I paid that and I'm happy with my purchase and would recommend it at the price. I would, however, describe the T1 as rather bright.

I think the HD800 outclasses the T1 in every way except amount of fun. The LCD-2 is about the polar opposite of the T1.

I too have both. The only thing my cork modded HD800 has over the T1 is better resolution & soundstage.
Doing A/B tests between the two, the T1 isn't on par with the details, but musically it smokes the HD800.
Subbass, midbass, lower mids just sound so much better. Drums, guitars have much more weight, physicality & holographic 3D effect over the HD800.
With classical or acoustic music I would say the HD800 is overall better, but with rock/hip-hop/EDM/pop etc.. the T1 is just more pleasant to listen to.