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The Official Beyerdynamic T1 Impressions and Discussion Thread
redstar
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The reason, I asked If the T1 would work from an AVR, is that I am looking to get a Hifi system, and would like the T1s as my primary headphones for films (I currently own, Beyer DT 770 Pro 80 Ohm).
I wont be able to afford a dedicated HP amp at the same time as I buy the Hifi gear. The HP amp will need to come later.
I am curious to know if the AVR would suffice until I could afford a HP amp for the T1s, it seems to, judging from some of the responses.
What I am unsure is, should I leave the T1 purchase out, until I can afford a dedicated amp and just use my 770s until then with the AVR?
Spend the extra on the T1 and use it with the AVR and wait it out for an HP Amp?
If I left the T1 out for the time being, I could maybe spend more on the AVR. Its finding that balance.
Loquah
Headphoneus Supremus
The reason, I asked If the T1 would work from an AVR, is that I am looking to get a Hifi system, and would like the T1s as my primary headphones for films (I currently own, Beyer DT 770 Pro 80 Ohm).
I wont be able to afford a dedicated HP amp at the same time as I buy the Hifi gear. The HP amp will need to come later.
I am curious to know if the AVR would suffice until I could afford a HP amp for the T1s, it seems to, judging from some of the responses.
What I am unsure is, should I leave the T1 purchase out, until I can afford a dedicated amp and just use my 770s until then with the AVR?
Spend the extra on the T1 and use it with the AVR and wait it out for an HP Amp?
If I left the T1 out for the time being, I could maybe spend more on the AVR. Its finding that balance.
It all depends on the level of AVR you need for your use. If you are going to watch a lot of films using speakers (5.1, etc.) then I'd say it's worth investing in a good receiver, but you can get good movie sound for a reasonable price in my experience. If you are expecting to use headphones equally as often (e.g. 50 / 50 with speakers) when watching movies then I'd say get the T1s and a decent AVR and then add a HP amp later. You might even find (depending on the quality of the receiver's HP out that a relatively cheap HP amp like a Fiio E09 / E12 or Matrix M-Stage could exceed the AVR performance with the T1s.
Roughly what's your budget and your split / emphasis of usage?
redstar
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I would say usage is certainly 50 / 50 headphones, however, i could go as much to say 70 headphone/ 30 hifi, depends on time of the evening.
Its hard to judge, i use headphones a lot, but maybe 50/50 is realistic, its certainly not less than that.
Its only for film, i hardly listen to music loud in my room.
Budget is £1500/1600
i was going to go with the Dali Zensor 1 surround pack for speakers,
What AVR do you suggest?
Its hard to judge, i use headphones a lot, but maybe 50/50 is realistic, its certainly not less than that.
Its only for film, i hardly listen to music loud in my room.
Budget is £1500/1600
i was going to go with the Dali Zensor 1 surround pack for speakers,
What AVR do you suggest?
Loquah
Headphoneus Supremus
I'm out of the loop with current receivers, but would recommend going with the T1s rather than pouring too much into the AVR.
DutchGFX
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I'm out of the loop with current receivers, but would recommend going with the T1s rather than pouring too much into the AVR.
+1. Couldn't agree more. Transducer first, then build system around it.
plyfold
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Hi everyone,
I'll start here by saying that I've just read this thread from beginning to end! It took a while.
Currently I have an iPod Classic strapped to a Fostex hp-p1 and bayers 1350's - love it. For portable use and at the office I am more than happy.
However, in the comfort of my home on my leather recliner, the 1350's don't quite feel comfortable enough and similar to everyone else on here I'm wanting more of what I like.
As I like the 1350's I feel i should stay loyal to Bayer, I also agree with an earlier post regarding the T90 - why spend that much and not go all the way... enter the T1's.
current home system is a Mac Mini feeding Naims DAC-V1. See: http://www.whathifi.com/review/naim-dac-v1
I am hoping that this will be sufficient for the T1's (at least it will have to be for the foreseeable future).
Does anyone have any comments on my pursuit of these fantastic cans?
I have an old pair of sennhesier 585 ovations (not so keen on them), love my 1350's.
Its a very subjective question (and probably impossible comparision), but if I like the 1350's, will I like the T1's?
I live 150 miles away (minimum) from the nearest big city so will be investing in these "blind" (or is it deaf??)
Cheers.
I'll start here by saying that I've just read this thread from beginning to end! It took a while.
Currently I have an iPod Classic strapped to a Fostex hp-p1 and bayers 1350's - love it. For portable use and at the office I am more than happy.
However, in the comfort of my home on my leather recliner, the 1350's don't quite feel comfortable enough and similar to everyone else on here I'm wanting more of what I like.
As I like the 1350's I feel i should stay loyal to Bayer, I also agree with an earlier post regarding the T90 - why spend that much and not go all the way... enter the T1's.
current home system is a Mac Mini feeding Naims DAC-V1. See: http://www.whathifi.com/review/naim-dac-v1
I am hoping that this will be sufficient for the T1's (at least it will have to be for the foreseeable future).
Does anyone have any comments on my pursuit of these fantastic cans?
I have an old pair of sennhesier 585 ovations (not so keen on them), love my 1350's.
Its a very subjective question (and probably impossible comparision), but if I like the 1350's, will I like the T1's?
I live 150 miles away (minimum) from the nearest big city so will be investing in these "blind" (or is it deaf??)
Cheers.
Alessandro1
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my two cents: I'm not talking about sound signature of Soloist ot tubes or what ... if we talk about power, OTL & High impedance is not "legend". It's "electricity", "physics" or something that someone can calculate.
T1 has needs enough Voltage and mW as you can see in innerfidelity resources.
If the soloist is 4W at 16 Ohm and 1W at 30, how is at T1's impedance, I don't think it will be enough on 600 Ohm and 1400 Ohm peak. If the T1 becomes harsh, screaming or distorting, it's not T1's fault, neither Soloist quality fault. It's electrical pairing.
T1 has needs enough Voltage and mW as you can see in innerfidelity resources.
If the soloist is 4W at 16 Ohm and 1W at 30, how is at T1's impedance, I don't think it will be enough on 600 Ohm and 1400 Ohm peak. If the T1 becomes harsh, screaming or distorting, it's not T1's fault, neither Soloist quality fault. It's electrical pairing.
okw3188
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my two cents: I'm not talking about sound signature of Soloist ot tubes or what ... if we talk about power, OTL & High impedance is not "legend". It's "electricity", "physics" or something that someone can calculate.
T1 has needs enough Voltage and mW as you can see in innerfidelity resources.
If the soloist is 4W at 16 Ohm and 1W at 30, how is at T1's impedance, I don't think it will be enough on 600 Ohm and 1400 Ohm peak. If the T1 becomes harsh, screaming or distorting, it's not T1's fault, neither Soloist quality fault. It's electrical pairing.
Well said, the whole game about high fidelity is all about impedance matching. I have learnt it the hard way, buying and selling lots of transistor amps, interconnects & speakers. Until the day I discover the beauty about vacuum tubes i.e. WE300B matching with a pair of Rogers LS3/5A.
redstar
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If playing blurays via a ps4, what hardware would be needed to get the best out of the T1s.
GardenVariety
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my two cents: I'm not talking about sound signature of Soloist ot tubes or what ... if we talk about power, OTL & High impedance is not "legend". It's "electricity", "physics" or something that someone can calculate.
T1 has needs enough Voltage and mW as you can see in innerfidelity resources.
If the soloist is 4W at 16 Ohm and 1W at 30, how is at T1's impedance, I don't think it will be enough on 600 Ohm and 1400 Ohm peak. If the T1 becomes harsh, screaming or distorting, it's not T1's fault, neither Soloist quality fault. It's electrical pairing.
I absolutely agree with what you are saying in regards to the science. However, I've seen no graphs or charts that say anything other than the Soloist powers the T1's beautifully. I've calibrated mine to 80db standard and they reach pristine 110db peaks with no signs of distortion. And that's on a Soloist SL. BTW, I've spoken to Burson and they claim there's no reason to upgrade to the Soloist from the SL when using T1's.
GardenVariety
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If playing blurays via a ps4, what hardware would be needed to get the best out of the T1s.
Pioneer Elite Receiver & Smyth Realiser Aside from that, you could get any processor or receiver that uses dolby headphone and get quite an immersive experience. Just use the optical output from the PS4 straight to the processor or HDMI straight to the receiver.
redstar
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Ok so I will still need a receiver?
If one switched the Smyth, for the Headzone, would that be a good combo?
What device would one suggest for the Dolby headphone?
If one switched the Smyth, for the Headzone, would that be a good combo?
What device would one suggest for the Dolby headphone?
GardenVariety
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Ok so I will still need a receiver?
If one switched the Smyth, for the Headzone, would that be a good combo?
What device would one suggest for the Dolby headphone?
That would be good but both are expensive. I think you would be pleased with something like a JVC SU-DH1. If you can get one. I believe the Astro Mix Amp is also good. Basically, you are looking anything that can take an optical input to a stereo output to your amp. If you went this way you wouldn't need a receiver. You would just control the volume from your headphone amp.
EDIT: You must take the optical output from the PS4 and not your TV. So, if you went this way you wouldn't be able to use your headphones for anything other than PS4 for surround. The only way around this would be to get a TV that outputs 5.1 over optical (99% don't) or a receiver that does the same.
EDIT2: You could also get a headphone amp with multiple inputs and use the processor solely with PS4 and run other devices to the other inputs.
EDIT3: You could also use an HDMI audio splitter/extractor to take the 5.1 out of all the inputs and send to one optical cable like this
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1389973001&sr=1-4&keywords=5.1+audio+extractor+hdmi
Ok, I'm really done now.
redstar
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I understand, thanks
I got the impression that the mixamp doesnt handle the format for blurays, im not sure if thats correct.
I notice that the Pioneer AVRs have a surround headphone out, perhaps that would suffice.
Are there any good places in the uk, that sell decent hp amps for a reasonable price?
I got the impression that the mixamp doesnt handle the format for blurays, im not sure if thats correct.
I notice that the Pioneer AVRs have a surround headphone out, perhaps that would suffice.
Are there any good places in the uk, that sell decent hp amps for a reasonable price?
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