Taking the Abyss AB1266 Φ TC headphones To Another Level
https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/revi...b1266-φ-tc-headphones-to-another-level-r1091/
https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/revi...b1266-φ-tc-headphones-to-another-level-r1091/
Superb. Will be interesting to see how the neutral complements tube harmonics. A step forward for all in dialing things in.Taking the Abyss AB1266 Φ TC headphones To Another Level
https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/reviews/taking-the-abyss-ab1266-φ-tc-headphones-to-another-level-r1091/
That's amazing. I know Mitch and have worked with him in the past. I'm going to reach out to him.Taking the Abyss AB1266 Φ TC headphones To Another Level
https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/reviews/taking-the-abyss-ab1266-φ-tc-headphones-to-another-level-r1091/
Very coolTaking the Abyss AB1266 Φ TC headphones To Another Level
https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/reviews/taking-the-abyss-ab1266-φ-tc-headphones-to-another-level-r1091/
thank youThe point is, Abyss officials should not take the original post as "this guy made a fake", but he's actually the one helping us know there's a potential fake in the market.
Also, people should be aware it's not only Abyss involved in this issue but also other brands. The difference is whether the seller wanna mess around with you. If they want, I'd say sometimes it can be very hard to identify since the clones (especially Grado) are highly identical.
I think Phi will be better than TC! Please do not upgradeIt is 800 USD + my Phi as exchange!
cheersthank you
I always am amazed that people take on projects like this themselves, I would never be able to do that or think of doing that. Different talents for different people for sure, nice job.Today, I rebuilt the stock Abyss cable I hated so much and turned it into a cable I can connect directly into the balanced outs of my TT2. The cable is so much softer and lighter now with all the (imo) unnecessary material they have making it so stiff. The actual conductors were insulated/coated already and pretty thin. I should have taken a pic, but I was surprised how thin they were. Each of the cables you see here has 4 conductors in them, so you can get an idea. The sleve is about as thick as a standard shoelace.
Could you please share what you did - I assume you cut away the outer insulation which held together the 4 conductors?Today, I rebuilt the stock Abyss cable I hated so much and turned it into a cable I can connect directly into the balanced outs of my TT2. The cable is so much softer and lighter now with all the (imo) unnecessary material they have making it so stiff. The actual conductors were insulated/coated already and pretty thin. I should have taken a pic, but I was surprised how thin they were. Each of the cables you see here has 4 conductors in them, so you can get an idea. The sleve is about as thick as a standard shoelace.
I had this happen to me also on my old pair, it did not fail completely but was starting to.Hi, I am a happy owner of the abyss 1266 phi tc, however, the glue on one of the earpads has started to fail, they are about a year old and I really don't want to pay the crazy price for a new pair that are otherwise in great condition.
Can anyone recommend any good glue or other fixes to help me save £450.
Thanks
I started by removing the outer black sleeve by carefully cutting through it. Then I cut another layer of thin white wrap below that. Below that were all these strands of plastic or nylon type material separating the conductors and adding thickness to the cable (picture below, this is what makes up the majority of the cable -- and it's contributions to the sound of the cable are zero, IMO and subjective listening...see subsequent post about inductance/capacitance, etc by joe below). I discarded all that and just kept the 4 thin, insulated conductors (red and white insulation on them). I then got new connectors for each end, soldered the mini xlr ends and used the stock Abyss caps on them. I put the cables through the dark gray fabric sleeve, heat shrunk and clamped the mini xlr ends. Then soldered the full sized female XLR connections, heat shrunk, clamped and finally just twisted the cables together...and voila...new cable that is feather weight and doesn't require an adapter into my TT2.Could you please share what you did - I assume you cut away the outer insulation which held together the 4 conductors?
Thanks and congrats! It takes guts to do this with such an expensive stock cable. However, after reading your description I discarded any plan to follow suit .... way too non-tech for that .I started by removing the outer black sleeve by carefully cutting through it. Then I cut another layer of thin white wrap below that. Below that were all these strands of plastic or nylon type material separating the conductors and adding thickness to the cable (picture below, this is what makes up the majority of the cable -- and it's contributions to the sound of the cable are zero). I discarded all that and just kept the 4 thin, insulated conductors (red and white insulation on them). I then got new connectors for each end, soldered the mini xlr ends and used the stock Abyss caps on them. I put the cables through the dark gray fabric sleeve, heat shrunk and clamped the mini xlr ends. Then soldered the full sized female XLR connections, heat shrunk, clamped and finally just twisted the cables together...and voila...new cable that is feather weight and doesn't require an adapter into my TT2.
It took a few hours because the mini xlr soldering wasn't easy and sleeving was a pain to get on. I also kept doing things out of order and had to redo stuff, like getting everything on and realizing I forgot the bottom of the connectors, which had to go on first, lol. I'm not that experienced at building cables but this is my third or fourth maybe. It took me a few tries to get it perfect. Also, this was an extra stock cable I had - purchased one from a fellow head-fier a while back and never got the time to follow through till now. I still have a stock cable I never took out of the box for when I sell them.Thanks and congrats! It takes guts to do this with such an expensive stock cable. However, after reading your description I discarded any plan to follow suit .... way too non-tech for that .
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