Syzygies
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This is a "by the book" charging circuit for NiMh 9V batteries, as found on its datasheet and as used in Tangent's TPM schematic. I am following standard advice by separately charging each cell, which is a good thing because at the moment they are at very different charge levels. There is nothing novel about this circuit; I am documenting it to make life easier for newcomers, as we are a friendly tribe.
I've been using NiMh 9V batteries in my Altoids CMoy amp, but I don't have a 9V charger handy, so I built one:
Power comes in from the right, and two separate 9V battery snaps for charging leave at the bottom. The right pin of each LM317 is "in", the middle pin is "out", and the LM317 controls the current flow through "out" to keep the left pin "adj" exactly 1.25 volts lower than the output. Across a 100 ohm resistor, that current is 12.5 mA, which is what I want. The diode keeps "backflooding" from damaging the LM317, e.g. if I were to short the power supply wires while a battery was hooked up.
The metal body of the LM317 is also "out", so don't let it short against a metal enclosure. If you like this layout but don't want each LM317 hanging off the edge (not an issue in my recycled enclosure), bend them forward so they face-plant over the rest of the circuit. If you do this, the board can be cut down further.
Before building this, figure out how the circuit works, and stare at my layout until you believe that I have implemented it correctly. This will come in handy later, when you'll know where to stick multimeter probes while observing the circuit in use.
To yield a 12.5 mA charging current, the parts list consists of
2 LM317T linear regulators
2 100 ohm resistors
2 1N4001 diodes
The protoboard is half of a RadioShack 276-150 Multipurpose PC Board, scored and snapped in half as described in Tangent's CMoy Assembling the Amplifier directions. I then sand the cut edge to clean it up.
My 9V batteries have a capacity of 170 mAh, so a trickle charge of 12.5 mA nominally takes 13.6 hours to fully charge an empty battery. This is called a "C/13.6" charge rate. Generally, anything between C/10 and C/20 is viewed as an acceptable rate for trickle charging, with C/10 so fast that you don't want to forget and leave the batteries charging all week, and C/20 so slow that the batteries might not fully charge. I can live with this rate, in between.
To test the circuit, I first scanned the underside at 2400 dpi and stared at my solder work. I realized that I was having a really bad day (notice how your handwriting varies?) but there were no shorts. I then tested the circuit using a test cable I had previously made, that lets two multimeters measure volts and amps as the circuit works:
The LM317 needs an overhead of at least 1.6 volts to function ideally. (Like all circuits, it does something predictable otherwise, but perhaps not what you wanted.) The resistor inserts a drop of 1.25V, and the diode inserts a drop of 0.7V. This adds up to 3.55 volts.
My 9V batteries are 8.4V nominal, or seven 1.2V cells in series. As these cells reach full charge the voltage difference across the battery will approach roughly 7*1.5 = 10.5V. (My 9V batteries go to a bit higher voltage than I've seen for AA cells; Tangent uses a value of 1.55V per cell, which is conservative but good design.) Add the overhead, we need a power supply that yields a voltage of 14 volts or more at a current of 25 mA. Go a bit under, the charge slows down at the end. Go more than a bit under, the batteries will never fully charge.
One of my iPod power supplies measures 12.93V when hooked up to this circuit. This is not enough. It is instructive to understand what happens to the circuit under these circumstances: The missing volts get taken out of the 1.25V voltage drop between the "out" and "adj" pins, which collapses to a drop of 0.7V. Predictably, this yield a charging current of 7 mA, not what we wanted.
My other iPod power supply measures 14.34V when hooked up to this circuit. Using this power supply I'm getting 12.52 mA and 12.53 mA from the two chargers, pretty close to perfect. LM317's are amazing jellybeans. A generic 15V wall wart would work well here.
It's fun to run these numbers through Tangent's Configuration Calculator for his NiMh Battery Board. He makes different assumptions for a different circuit, but the results are close.
The easiest way to save about 0.35 volts is to substitute a Schottky diode. I figured out how to also get rid of most of the 1.25V resistor drop using four resistors per LM317; if anyone else is keen to use their iPod power supply but can't do so without finding this last volt somewhere, let me know and I'll document the circuit:
Update: For a good, cheap wall wart for powering such circuits, consider the wall wart described in the thread $5 18V RadioShack trickle charger
I've been using NiMh 9V batteries in my Altoids CMoy amp, but I don't have a 9V charger handy, so I built one:
Power comes in from the right, and two separate 9V battery snaps for charging leave at the bottom. The right pin of each LM317 is "in", the middle pin is "out", and the LM317 controls the current flow through "out" to keep the left pin "adj" exactly 1.25 volts lower than the output. Across a 100 ohm resistor, that current is 12.5 mA, which is what I want. The diode keeps "backflooding" from damaging the LM317, e.g. if I were to short the power supply wires while a battery was hooked up.
The metal body of the LM317 is also "out", so don't let it short against a metal enclosure. If you like this layout but don't want each LM317 hanging off the edge (not an issue in my recycled enclosure), bend them forward so they face-plant over the rest of the circuit. If you do this, the board can be cut down further.
Before building this, figure out how the circuit works, and stare at my layout until you believe that I have implemented it correctly. This will come in handy later, when you'll know where to stick multimeter probes while observing the circuit in use.
To yield a 12.5 mA charging current, the parts list consists of
2 LM317T linear regulators
2 100 ohm resistors
2 1N4001 diodes
The protoboard is half of a RadioShack 276-150 Multipurpose PC Board, scored and snapped in half as described in Tangent's CMoy Assembling the Amplifier directions. I then sand the cut edge to clean it up.
My 9V batteries have a capacity of 170 mAh, so a trickle charge of 12.5 mA nominally takes 13.6 hours to fully charge an empty battery. This is called a "C/13.6" charge rate. Generally, anything between C/10 and C/20 is viewed as an acceptable rate for trickle charging, with C/10 so fast that you don't want to forget and leave the batteries charging all week, and C/20 so slow that the batteries might not fully charge. I can live with this rate, in between.
To test the circuit, I first scanned the underside at 2400 dpi and stared at my solder work. I realized that I was having a really bad day (notice how your handwriting varies?) but there were no shorts. I then tested the circuit using a test cable I had previously made, that lets two multimeters measure volts and amps as the circuit works:
The LM317 needs an overhead of at least 1.6 volts to function ideally. (Like all circuits, it does something predictable otherwise, but perhaps not what you wanted.) The resistor inserts a drop of 1.25V, and the diode inserts a drop of 0.7V. This adds up to 3.55 volts.
My 9V batteries are 8.4V nominal, or seven 1.2V cells in series. As these cells reach full charge the voltage difference across the battery will approach roughly 7*1.5 = 10.5V. (My 9V batteries go to a bit higher voltage than I've seen for AA cells; Tangent uses a value of 1.55V per cell, which is conservative but good design.) Add the overhead, we need a power supply that yields a voltage of 14 volts or more at a current of 25 mA. Go a bit under, the charge slows down at the end. Go more than a bit under, the batteries will never fully charge.
One of my iPod power supplies measures 12.93V when hooked up to this circuit. This is not enough. It is instructive to understand what happens to the circuit under these circumstances: The missing volts get taken out of the 1.25V voltage drop between the "out" and "adj" pins, which collapses to a drop of 0.7V. Predictably, this yield a charging current of 7 mA, not what we wanted.
My other iPod power supply measures 14.34V when hooked up to this circuit. Using this power supply I'm getting 12.52 mA and 12.53 mA from the two chargers, pretty close to perfect. LM317's are amazing jellybeans. A generic 15V wall wart would work well here.
It's fun to run these numbers through Tangent's Configuration Calculator for his NiMh Battery Board. He makes different assumptions for a different circuit, but the results are close.
The easiest way to save about 0.35 volts is to substitute a Schottky diode. I figured out how to also get rid of most of the 1.25V resistor drop using four resistors per LM317; if anyone else is keen to use their iPod power supply but can't do so without finding this last volt somewhere, let me know and I'll document the circuit:
Update: For a good, cheap wall wart for powering such circuits, consider the wall wart described in the thread $5 18V RadioShack trickle charger