Speaker amps for headphones
Apr 16, 2013 at 8:49 PM Post #121 of 3,871
Quote:
 
The Duelunds cast are 0.5 to 1.2 ohms at 5w, 1.5 to 30 ohms at 10w, here http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/duelund_cast_resistors.html

Oops, for some reason I read 1R = 10 Ohm 
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Which resistor are you using with your Copland btw? I'm stalking a Copland (CTA 505) hoping for a good price =p
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:12 PM Post #123 of 3,871
Looking at the efficiency (or lack thereof) of those cans I would definitely go with minimum 10w  10 ohm resistor in parallel.  Play as loud as you ever play, feel the resistor to see how hot it runs.  If it runs a bit too hot to hold you are up to 120 degrees F, which it can easily handle, but it means you are indeed dissipating power.  If it is very hot when you just touch it you are probably in danger zone and you might be blowing it.  
 
I don't know that you are going to hear a huge difference between those fancy resistors and something easily available and not expensive such as Dale wirewound.  Nothing I hear using those, comparing Senn HD800 and LCD-3,both with network, to my other Stax and Koss headphones (not using the network, of course) and comparing to my pretty extreme high end loudspeakers, indicates I am suffering compromised sound quality!   This is actually a great place to test resistors, I'll be getting some crazy audiophile resistors in a few weeks to check out the difference.
 
Certainly most super expensive cables I have tried measure horribly, and have strong personalities due to ringing (most cases, these are the ones touted as having super detail and transparency) or severe rolloff  with blunted waveform transients (a few cases, these are the ones called natural). So I've been wondering about these boutique resistors: do they pass more signal, or are they expensive non-adjustable tone controls.  I am not trying to start a cable thread here, or debate cables, you are welcome to your own opinions about ringing cables sounding like detail, just making a comment that I'm wondering if some super duper resistors will show any of this "deviant behavior".     
 . 
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:17 PM Post #124 of 3,871
Quote:
 
After hearing headphone amps, then speaker amps, I have wondered the same thing.  My answers to myself were:
 
1.  The separates I am using (preamp and speaker amp) are MUCH more expensive than any headphone amp.  
 
that's likely true for a lot a of people, so all the more reason to do it. 
 
2. They are totally non-portable: 75 pound preamp, almost 200 pound amp. 
 
in a home setup, not a big deal, i would think. some of the so called best headphone amps are big and not being moved around either, although admittedly not like yours.
 
3. It is not turnkey like buying a headphone integrated amp is and just plugging in the headphone jack.  
 
more threads like this by guys like you, easier it is for us the rest of us, and secondly, more likely that someone will produce a plug in box that's has adjustable parameters, esp for those that want to experiment w multiple amps/phones
 
4. You can damage your headphones if you don't pay attention.
 
true. but a properly implemented black box and clear instructions  regarding grounding would go a long way towards minimizing that risk
 
5. The ideal impedance matching setup for each headphone will be different, so it requires fiddling, knowing something, effort, and a bit of understanding.  
 
knowing something, effort and understanding. you hit all my weak spots. back to the black box idea. 'speaker amps and headphones - for dummies.'
 
It is so much fun, though, having this level of sound, essentially infinite power to drive any headphone, and the same amp to make headphone and speaker comparisons.  
 
so true. the headphone amp world is so tiny compared to rest of the high end audio world - why pass that up?

 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:38 PM Post #126 of 3,871
Vintage iron is the best value to a home headphone rig but today's young people that don't own a speaker rig is best served with the mini amps.
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:38 PM Post #127 of 3,871
Quote:
 
I don't know that you are going to hear a huge difference between those fancy resistors and something easily available and not expensive such as Dale wirewound.  Nothing I hear using those, comparing Senn HD800 and LCD-3,both with network, to my other Stax and Koss headphones (not using the network, of course) and comparing to my pretty extreme high end loudspeakers, indicates I am suffering compromised sound quality!   This is actually a great place to test resistors, I'll be getting some crazy audiophile resistors in a few weeks to check out the difference.
 
 

 
Well considering 2 Duelund resistors are still cheaper than the HE adapter, I'd give it a try. I've also ordered Mills resistor and pondered if I should try the Mundorf M-resist also. I assume those resistors will last for a long time so it's not that expensive.
 
Also just curious, what will happen if you blow a resistor?
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:46 PM Post #128 of 3,871
Quote:
reading over this thread and the 'HE-6' thread, i'm starting to wonder why a speaker amp doesn't become the default amp for home setups - so many more choices, and most of us already have one or more speaker amps at home

 
My gut guess is because only a few bothered to try and with the AKG K1000 mostly and with a not too powerful speaker amps. With the arrival of HiFiMan's HE-6 all that changed. Even Fang used an old Threshold T400 to demo his HE-6. The price of the new higher end HP amps is going up, some here have discovered that vintage receivers sound good too. More options to power your HP which is good.
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 9:50 PM Post #129 of 3,871
Quote:
 
Well considering 2 Duelund resistors are still cheaper than the HE adapter, I'd give it a try. I've also ordered Mills resistor and pondered if I should try the Mundorf M-resist also. I assume those resistors will last for a long time so it's not that expensive.
 
Also just curious, what will happen if you blow a resistor?

 
Its good if the resistor blows first before the voice coil of your hp melts from the heat or the diaphragm gets deformed.
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 10:11 PM Post #130 of 3,871
"Its good if the resistor blows first before the voice coil of your hp melts from the heat or the diaphragm gets deformed."
 
"Also just curious, what will happen if you blow a resistor?"
 
First, the resistor melting does not mean that the voice coil was also ready to fry.  If you can stand the volume you are at, you are not stressing the voice coil.  The danger to the voice coil is if you don't sufficiently load the amp down and have the preamp at a volume setting that could blow the coil, and play some music.  
 
As for the safety factor of having a resistor blow, if it is a parallel resistor and that is the only loading you have on an otherwise too high gain amp the volume will soar as soon as the resistor blows.  So a blown parallel resistor could result in headphone damage.  A blown series resistor will stop the power from reaching the headphones, so no problem there.
 
"Well considering 2 Duelund resistors are still cheaper than the HE adapter, I'd give it a try."
 
Great argument for both of us trying some fancy resistors.  I'll do some measurements also, curious to see any inductive or capacitance that should not be there, and so see what happens when pass some difficult waveforms through and observe what comes out relative to "normal" resistors.  And if nothing shows, it will be interesting to listen and see if the sound changes despite no measurement differences.  
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 10:31 PM Post #131 of 3,871
Quote:
Originally Posted by Operakid /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
First, the resistor melting does not mean that the voice coil was also ready to fry.
 
Or the voice coil was already fried.
 
As for the safety factor of having a resistor blow, if it is a parallel resistor and that is the only loading you have on an otherwise too high gain amp the volume will soar as soon as the resistor blows.  So a blown parallel resistor could result in headphone damage.  A blown series resistor will stop the power from reaching the headphones, so no problem there.
 
A blown parallel 10watt resistor with a high powered amp would most likely mean a blown headphone as well. Once that resistor blows all the current will go to the headphone almost instantly.
 

 
Apr 16, 2013 at 10:37 PM Post #132 of 3,871
No, just no.
That's not how a typical SS amp works.
It's a voltage source.
Assuming the resistor fails open, then your headphones won't suddenly absorb all the extra current.
If your resistor fails short circuit, your probably going to blow the output transistors. Now that may blow your headphones!
 
Apr 16, 2013 at 10:49 PM Post #133 of 3,871
True, a typical audio amp is a voltage amplifier. Let's take a case of just a parallel 10 ohm resistor rated at 10 watts with a 50 ohm HP and for some reason the 10 ohm resistor blows. What will happen to the 50 ohm load rated at say 5 watts?
 
Apr 17, 2013 at 12:38 AM Post #134 of 3,871
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Thank you for the nice responses, which are right on target.  
 
Are you Sao Winn, the audio legend?   

no, i'm not, although i've spoken to him on the phone a few times way back when, and owned some of his stuff - the SM8 monitors, one of his turntables (the model name is escaping me) and a strain gauge cartridge (never worked properly, sent it back to him, and never did hear it again) - all gone now. i joined head-fi back in 2005 and i have no idea why i picked this as a moniker
 
i see a production 'black box' in your future!
 

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