I'll close this chapter on the dual DAC D25 mod with a basic modification sequence. You can actually perform the modification without cutting any traces, although one spot is very tight; will elaborate in the steps. Even more to the point, you cannot simply cut the traces to pins 19 and 20, because they run under the chip. This is another tidbit I discovered the hard way (your ohmmeter is your friend and savior, especially when a less than careful analysis of the PCB layout is your bane). Since part of the modification includes swapping the power and ground on a few pins, extra caution is needed.
Parts needed:
1 – PCM66 DAC
2 – small lengths of extra fine wire. I used wirewrap wire that I had from "back in the day."
1 – small piece of bare wire. I used stripped wirewrap wire.
Step one – On the current DAC, lift pins 8, 19, and 20.
Pin 8 – current left channel, which will be handled by the additional DAC. The space between the pin 8 pad and C201 is extremely small, certainly too small for my big fat soldering iron. Additionally, as busy as this area is with another line soldered to a via, I chose to just cut the trace between the pad and C201.
Pins 19 and 20, currently connected to ground, will be rewired to choose which DAC is for which channel.
Step two – Flatten the pins on the new DAC, and then bend them down 90 degrees. See the original thread for tips (I'll try to find and edit this post as well). Leave pins 8 and 20 sticking straight out.
Step three – Mount the new DAC on top of the current DAC and solder all the pins to their corresponding number (1 to 1, 2 to 2, etc.) except the ones lifted in step one (8 and 20), plus, leave pins 5 (NC) and 9 (not used in this player) open. Since pin 8 is not used for this application, leave both pin 8s open.
Step four – Hardware the pad of lower DAC pin 8 (or the connected side of C201) to pin 10 of the upper DAC. This connects the output of the upper DAC, which will be the new left channel.
Step 5 – Hardwire the small bare wire across pin 18, both pin 19s, and pin 20 of the lower DAC. This establishes the mode for one DAC per channel (both pin 19s to +5V; supplied by pin 18), and by connecting pin 20 of the
lower DAC to +5V, sets the lower DAC as the right channel DAC. I used pin 17 as an extra solder point since it is also connected to +5V.
Step 6 – Hardwire from the via where the traces for pins 19 and 20 emanate (see image of PCB layout and pic below) to pin 20 of the
upper DAC. This sets the upper DAC as the left channel DAC by connecting to GND.
Step 7 – Relax sphincter pressure; you're done with the chip mod. Carefully close up the player. It's a tight fit, so use caution.
Other changes from the original post, which you might entertain:
Op-amp – Not in the sound circuit; not really necessary.
Cap mods – I like the change, but you give up the battery tray and there are (will be) ways to build your own battery once the sequence is fine tuned (another member is working on this).
Copper shield and GND wire on top of DAC. – Subjective; the casing is metal, but there is a ribbon cable running over the top of the new DAC; I suspect pressing firmly against it. I have extra of this copper strip if interested.
Pix
Here are some pix of the mod, which I quickly snapped before sewing up to confirming that the player works, and at this point am not ready to open it back up for better pics with a cleaned up board.
It's a bit difficult to get a perspective on just how tiny the work area and DAC chip are, but the buttons on the D25, shown in the DAC select image, are about 1/8" in diameter. The wire I used is ultra fine solid core wirewrap wire, which is about 20 mils in diameter. This is all ultra fine work and one wrong move could cost you a player that's currently going for big bucks. This is my only disclaimer…..
Channel select pin change – A bit hard to see with the glare from the pad, but the wire is soldered to the left side of chicklet 201.
DAC Select pin change – After cutting trace 19, I then realized and confirmed that the traces run under the chip. I'd also hooked up per the original post, which swapped the channels. This section would have looked better if I had not had to unsolder and resolder a few times. Scary business.
Correct pinout change.
Image of the traces in the battle arena.