HD600 is the only other open headphone besides two Hifiman - HE6SEV2 and HE-500.
I'd choose either of these Hifiman over the 600. They are one of the few headphones that can do mids at or above the 600 along with a slew of other things that they do better than the 600. Don't get me wrong - I still like the 600 and it's lovely sound but I do feel it is outclassed in many areas (soundstage, imaging, separation, bass, detail retrieval, dynamic and attack, speed, etc) by the older Hifiman planars.
The Hifiman IMO do these things better than anything else I've heard when it comes to headphones though so to say they outclass the HD600 doesn't knock the 600 too much when I feel they outdo everything else I've tried the same.
Stock, the timbre of the mids favors the 600, more so on a decent OTL amp. Do enough mods and parametric EQ, that advantage shrinks, but not totally. But I do have those changes. Those are my 3 main cans (6 SE 45%, 500 35%, 600 15%). HEX v2 2-3 hrs every 6 weeks or so.
Not if its more bass, which it is supposed to be. I found it muddy, and slow, sort of what I don't like about the 650 in the bass. Added extra low bass (under 70 Hz. finds zero favor with me if there is any added bloat from 70-250 Hz which there was. Blue foam next, but I may go back to the OG foam and play with foam (.25 of the depth of the blue to start - I have all sorts of foam and I have disturbed the tuning of the 600, I have to get it back to that or better - but first the HEK Stealth session I mentioned tomorrow.
Hello, I discovered a small problem with the right headphone jack on my HD600. I bought the headphones on 11/11/2020 and they always played great without errors. I bought an HD650 last year and an HD660S2 more recently, so the HD600s fell out of my current interest for a while, but yesterday I was doing some comparative listening and after some time connected a cable to the HD600. A slight rattling sound can be heard in the right earpiece when touched and gently moved with the plug connector attached. As an electrician, I see it as a transition resistance and a bad contact. I tried four other cables. which I have plugged and unplugged several times and it is clear that the problem is inside the connector. There is a video on YT where you can see a detailed disassembly of the handset, including the driver, and you can also see a detail of the contact spring, and it is precisely at the end pin of the coil connected to the spring that I suspect the problem. Otherwise, without touching the connector, the headphones play fine. Has anyone encountered such a problem?
So far no combination of the copper rings/foam is working for me vs stock. Yes you get more bass, but, the cost is one note bass (open, and most open foam, and the “3”) OR much less bass (blue and dark gray). The best result for me so far is cutting the blue foam into 2 pieces about 1/6 of the total length each - and put it into the “tube” at the top edge - with no ring - that’s closest to stock.
In order to make the changes quickly I have the backs off and that is interesting with dynamat added to make up for the loss in rigidity of no screen added to the dynamat I had on it for years to cut resonances of the plastic housing. Certainly lighter if nothing else.
Unlike the haphazard effort HFM puts in everything outside of the drivers, these Senns were carefully calibrated and the CC copper mod overturns it IMO. Been unable to get the little black stock foam back in. Will be working on this for the next few days.
So far no combination of the copper rings/foam is working for me vs stock. Yes you get more bass, but, the cost is one note bass (open, and most open foam, and the “3”) OR much less bass (blue and dark gray). The best result for me so far is cutting the blue foam into 2 pieces about 1/6 of the total length each - and put it into the “tube” at the top edge - with no ring - that’s closest to stock.
In order to make the changes quickly I have the backs off and that is interesting with dynamat added to make up for the loss in rigidity of no screen added to the dynamat I had on it for years to cut resonances of the plastic housing. Certainly lighter if nothing else.
Unlike the haphazard effort HFM puts in everything outside of the drivers, these Senns were carefully calibrated and the CC copper mod overturns it IMO. Been unable to get the little black stock foam back in. Will be working on this for the next few days.
Good question. No. I'm rebuilding it to look good, so its on the Rag, which I have used with it for the last month to pretty good results before the CC ring (Big fan of CC cables).
So far no combination of the copper rings/foam is working for me vs stock. Yes you get more bass, but, the cost is one note bass (open, and most open foam, and the “3”) OR much less bass (blue and dark gray). The best result for me so far is cutting the blue foam into 2 pieces about 1/6 of the total length each - and put it into the “tube” at the top edge - with no ring - that’s closest to stock.
In order to make the changes quickly I have the backs off and that is interesting with dynamat added to make up for the loss in rigidity of no screen added to the dynamat I had on it for years to cut resonances of the plastic housing. Certainly lighter if nothing else.
Unlike the haphazard effort HFM puts in everything outside of the drivers, these Senns were carefully calibrated and the CC copper mod overturns it IMO. Been unable to get the little black stock foam back in. Will be working on this for the next few days.
Update. The rear screens are part of the tuning, so back on, but the dynamat stays. Playing with some finely woven paper and cloth to replicate the foam removed for the CC mod, w/ some favorable results.
Also looking to ID the woven material on the LFF "Code Sex" mods of the HE-6 for possible use on the 600, and also the 500 and SE. It might be that its just to hide the mods, or maybe its part of the mod....
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