[sam6550a]

I am in manufacturing, and my brother is a fresh tool and die engineer in plastics and it is very true - we "can't" find people to fill the open slots for the manufacturing site. He as a new coworker hired for polymer development and has related the coworker was expecting to do new material R&D, not existing material CI and QC work.


The other half is how tall these trucks are, ended up in the parking lot next to a new F150 and new F250 today, and both hoods were even with or above the roof of my car - it doesn't matter how many lights they have if my eyeballs are even with their headlights - its going to be blinding.

Yes, manufacturing engineering is rapidly becoming a lost art in the US. Sad.

 

[Brubacca]

Asgard 3 gets "warm"?

Asgard 1 says hold my beer

Asgard 2 cooks your hot chocolate.

 

[Brubacca]

Yes, manufacturing engineering is rapidly becoming a lost art in the US. Sad.

I work in robotics automation. People ask me what kind I jobs they are taking. I tell them "vacant ones."

 

[Dr. Cube]

Quick product question: I’ve been looking at upgrades over my Asgard 3 (just kicking tires at the moment) and I was wondering: any Asgard 3 owners who also have Lyr+…which one runs hotter? People say Asgard 3 runs hot but I feel more like it’s warm to the touch. Alsooooo, is the upgrade worth it from a price to performance standpoint (subjectively I mean for the sound not measurements)

I powered them both on about an hour ago, and when I put my hand on top of the top cover, the temperatures seem similar to me. I have them in different rooms on different floors of the house, so I can't move my hand back and forth within a few seconds, though. The Lyr+ has a vacuum tube sticking out the top, and that definitely feels warmer than the top cover, but I can wrap my whole hand around the tube and it's definitely cool enough to keep holding it indefinitely. A stainless steel pitcher for steaming milk with an espresso machine, for example, gets much hotter than the tube does, and the tube is the hottest surface I can find on the Lyr+. I won't be surprised if an infrared thermometer can pick out a difference in temperature, but from a human hands-on perspective I can't say there's a major difference.

I upgraded from an Asgard 3 to a Lyr+ about a year and a half ago with the first run of Lyr+ amps. My opinion is that Lyr+ is a worthwhile upgrade over Asgard 3 in that it adds a tube mode, while offering a solid state mode that sounds similar to me, and the Lyr+ volume control and features are better for me. The solid state mode sounds very similar, to me at least, with the low-impedance dynamics and planars that I normally use with it. The tube mode is its own thing, and my Lyr+ is set to tube mode more than 95% of the time. I use the Lyr+ with a Psvane CV181-T, which I think sounds great with all the headphones I use. To me, the Asgard 3 is very clean, but the Lyr+ tube mode just sounds a bit richer and more interesting. The factory Tung-Sol tube I received was also good, but I haven't spent much time listening with it. I've never used the preamp function of the Lyr+, because my headphone system also uses a Saga S as a preamp, which is connected to some powered monitors and some other headphone amps through splitters.

Gain switching is much faster with Asgard 3 (instant) than with Lyr+ (~5 seconds), and switching between tube and solid state modes is comparatively slow (~20 seconds), if that matters to you. Input switching is still instantaneous. Personally, I don't think I would bother upgrading unless you're sure you want to use the tube mode a lot, and there are much cheaper ways of finding out whether you like tube hybrids, like the Vali series. While there's nothing wrong at all with the Lyr+ solid state mode, I don't think it's worth the price difference unless you want both the tube and solid state capabilities, or unless you really want a lot more power. For me, the Lyr+ solid state capability is a convenience feature for the scenario where I don't have a working tube handy.

I don't own any headphones that the Lyr+ can't power to dangerous volumes. The most demanding headphones I have are Aeon 2 closed and DT880 Edition, and I've never turned up past 3 o'clock with either of them, which was already alarmingly loud. I know neither of those is an especially demanding headphone in terms of power, but it's what I have. The TH610s and Grados I run only on low gain because of the noise floor. The stepped attenuator is still audibly perfect for these in terms of channel matching, but I can really hear the noise with the Lyr+ set to high gain mode. In low gain mode I hear nothing but the input signal.

In my system, I also have a Valhalla (1) and an SW51+ (transformer-coupled 6Ж51P) in addition to the Lyr+. I like both of those for use with some headphones, but they simply can't run the Grados, or the Aeon 2, or the Arya Stealth properly in my opinion, and the Lyr+ is fantastic for those. For high-impedance dynamics like HD650 and DT880, all these amps work well in different ways, with the Lyr+ sounding the cleanest (which is not always what you want, right? But sometimes).

In my opinion, the low gain mode of Lyr+ is not clean enough for Andromedas, while the low gain mode of Asgard 3 is clean enough. With Andromedas, I can easily hear the Lyr+ noise floor, but I can get an appropriate volume from Asgard 3 without hearing it. I think the negative gain mode of Magni+ is a significantly better choice for the Andromedas, but that's a mode that was specifically designed for very sensitive IEMs. These are the only set I have that are too sensitive for the Lyr+ in low gain mode, and all of my other IEMs are perfectly fine with it, but the Andromedas are a famously brutal test for amplifier SNR. I don't think I would make a decision about Lyr+ solely based on performance with Andromedas.

If you use the card slot in the Asgard 3, of course, you'll have to replace that with an outboard DAC. I've only used the Asgard 3 and Lyr+ with Bifrost 2 and Modi 3+, and I'm afraid I've never heard any Schiit DAC with TI or ESS D/A chips in it so I can't say anything about the stuff that's currently available.

 

[corndog71]

Anyone running a subwoofer with Tyr's have experience/recommendations for 10" size?

Any particular reason for a 10”?

 

[artur9]

Anyone running a subwoofer with Tyr's have experience/recommendations for 10" size?

There are lots of ways to run subwoofers and lots of subwoofers (I have too many). Are you using the Tyr to power a sub or do you mean something else?

What are you hoping to get from the sub?

Easy recommendations are RSL Speedwoofer (perennially out of stock) (internet favorite, haven't heard it) and Starke (I have two of those).

 

[Daniel Johnston]

Rolled out my Brimar CV4033 (non-Footscray) from the cathode follower side and rolled in Foton gold grid 6N6Ps. Not hating it. It's actually pretty good. Gotta give it more time to determine if it better than the CV4033s for me.

Running Raytheon 7728s as drivers, BTW.

You have much more exotic tubes than I.

 

[Orange5o]

Any particular reason for a 10”?

There are lots of ways to run subwoofers and lots of subwoofers (I have too many). Are you using the Tyr to power a sub or do you mean something else?

What are you hoping to get from the sub?

Easy recommendations are RSL Speedwoofer (perennially out of stock) (internet favorite, haven't heard it) and Starke (I have two of those).

Due to room width and the racking in front. There is a 12" next to theater viewing position and it is hooked to theater av when in home theater mode. I need a 10" up front in the 2 channel setup version. I want some extra bass when listening to music in 2 channel setup. Tyrs and Triangle Antal 40th anniversaries

 

[bcschmerker4]

6N6P is 750 milliamps +/- 70 (seems the Russian tubes always carry a "+/-" spec). A 12AT7 running at 6.3v is 300 milliamps. So anywhere between 1.96 amps and 2.24 amps for a pair of 6N6P's and a pair of 12AT7's. That's within the 2.4 max current Jason specified, and also probably why he specified running the 6N6P's with a lower current pair in the other sockets. The stock 6N1P is 600 milliamps +/- 50, so you could end up with as much as 2.94 amps if running 6N6P's alongside 6N1P's, depending on how far above the base spec the exact tubes in use are pulling. Any 12A*7 tube as well as 6922's, 6DJ8's, etc should be fine in conjunction with the 6N6P's.

Is an all-6N1P (Cyr: 6Н1П) setup safe in the FREYA™? The 6N1P and 6N6P (Cyr: 6Н6П) have comparable transconductances amongst the specs.

 

[Daniel Johnston]

Is an all-6N1P (Cyr: 6Н1П) setup safe in the FREYA™? The 6N1P and 6N6P (Cyr: 6Н6П) have comparable transconductances amongst the specs.

All 6N1P is safe. That’s what it comes with. At least mine did.

All 6N6P is no bueno. Per the chart, it’s at least 2.9 amps.

It’s not transconductance but amperage draw

 

[turtlerod]

`Anyone running a subwoofer with Tyr's have experience/recommendations for 10" size?

I run Martin Logan speakers with two Rhythmic 18" subwoofers with Tyr's. Third best improvement to my system,

 

[JamminVMI]

Any opera fans on here who also have an opinion on what they think is the best Wagner Ring Cycle recording? Looking for full cycles, not individual operas.

I've got the old vinyl box sets of the Solti cycle and have worked my way through a bit of that but am always curious what other people like. Are there any modern cycles that are well regarded?

Currently browsing my way through a selection of gins produced at my distillery.

Ugh. Complete cyclyes always give something up. But that something isn’t continuity. Ok, in for a dollar here. Tompair with the London dry, get the solti with the VPO. Orcestral detail, better casting, great chorus, and nor recorded at Bayreuth. to pair with the Sloe, Böhm’s live recording at Bayreuth. The chorus is killer, but the orchestra ok. Nilsson is great, but Wotan? Ugh. Conducting, however, is to my liking. And this one’s an hour faster than the Solti. I have both, they each have their place. Bought the Böhm first. Gotta find that Sloe, though.

 

[JamminVMI]

Asgard 3 gets "warm"?

Asgard 1 says hold my beer

As does 2. cheers! And honestly? A2 is an upgrade over 3, in my opinion. And A1 or A2? Tossup, unless you’re married to the gain switch…

 

[artur9]

... I want some extra bass when listening to music in 2 channel setup. Tyrs and Triangle Antal 40th anniversaries

According to Stereophile, your speakers are quite capable. It's going to be hard for a 10" to give you a lot more bass.

My personal preference, for music, these days is a high level connection (i.e. speaker level). That means a bigger than average budget....
Oh, and preferred music genre? Some genre really like powerful bass...

 

[artur9]

I just sent this one back USB C to SPDIF, Hdiwousp. Its connection via the USB wasn't very reliable,

I use one almost every day for 6 to 8 hours from phone usb-otg, mostly podcasts or radio paradise while working. The only "issue" is that its easy to jostle the spdif out of its socket.

You're right, @quimbo amazon told me the wrong one. It was actually a Douk Audio U2. That other one is in a different setup.

The Douk, the USB doesn't reliably connect to the device. I had to leave the TOSLink connected just to verify (via the red laser light) that it was working. Tried a different USB-C and that didn't help.