Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Nov 16, 2009 at 6:41 PM Post #9,106 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by oatmeal769 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'd first check the 1/4" output jack inside. be sure it is solidly connected to the circuit board, and that the connections inside make good contact. Those jacks are pretty cheap.


1/4 jack is the problem, the biggest problem now is how i changed it?
 
Nov 16, 2009 at 8:33 PM Post #9,107 of 9,388
Unfortunately, it isn't just a quick swap out of a switchcraft. You will need to desolder it carefully from the board, and replace it with the exact same type of input. Take it with you to the electronics store to be sure, most of those guys are pretty helpful (unless you go to Radio Shack, in which case don't listen to anything they say...).

it is probably just a simple 3 conductor TRS with a switching ground, but I haven't looked at it.
The good news is that the whole repair shouldn't cost more than about $3.50, assuming you have basic soldering tools.
 
Nov 16, 2009 at 8:43 PM Post #9,109 of 9,388
I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.

I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.
 
Nov 16, 2009 at 8:55 PM Post #9,111 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by crapback /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I had a similar problem with my output jack. It actually had nothing to do with the solder connections. I would recommend trying some contact cleaner first before getting involved with swapping that thing. It has 8 tabs instead of pins and won't be much fun to replace. If it had a simple jack I would upgrade the thing but it's an annoying el cheapo.

I wasted about two hours thinking I screwed up my installation of a cheap attenuator because some oxidation on the jacks contacts were preventing right channel output. I even ordered the closest things I could find to replace the thing before I figured out the real problem. Luckily, they were only about $10 for 2 of them shipped.



Do you think i can find something similar online somewhere?
 
Nov 16, 2009 at 11:29 PM Post #9,112 of 9,388
Dec 6, 2009 at 5:51 AM Post #9,113 of 9,388
i did some opamp rolling. i had started with LT1364 (dac) - LT1469 (amp), but the sound was bright and the treble was too harsh for me. after some combos, i settled on LT1469 - LT1361. it just sounded more balanced and the imaging was better.

this unit is a great place for audiophiles to start
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Dec 16, 2009 at 2:10 PM Post #9,114 of 9,388
Hi,

I stopped using my Zero( on year or so old) for several months, and wanted to try it again with a Hiface 192kHz USB to SPDIF converter (excellent value for money by the way)

Very nasty result : 16/44.1 works perfectly, but anything above fails (enormous distorsion) : 24/96 or 24/192 namely.

The same occurs if the digital message goes first through my Tact 2150, redirected to the Zero through the amp digital out...

Using my CI Audio VDA2 and a Trends PA10 headphone amp in place of the Zero with the same connections works perfectly well at all frequencies.

Any idea to solve this issue ???
 
Dec 16, 2009 at 9:57 PM Post #9,118 of 9,388
As the same setup works with the CIAudio DAC (at least for 24/96, as it is not capable of 24/192), I would rather fear a hardware issue with the Zero...

I did try something else : send some 16/44.1 in the Tact RCS Preamp and output it upsampled 24/192 (the default output for the RCS) to the Zero: doesn't work either.
 

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