[sillysally]

Quote:

What does temperature have to do with the pot? And what other KG electrostatic tube amps are you familiar with?
 

Sometimes pots can become very had to turn when there is very high heat involved. Expansion and contraction.

 
Just from a source that knows (i would hope) what he is talking about. From what I am told your T2 should run hotter than the BHSE.

 

 

[bcg27]

 
Interesting. I can understand upgrading the DACT in the BHSE because 24 steps is a little coarse IMO, but I have never heard of thermal expansion being an issue. Is thiss something you/someone you know have actually experienced or just speculation?
 
Also I wasn’t really counting the DIY T2, as it is not and almost certainly never will be a commercial offering. 

 

[sillysally]

Yes I agree 24 steps is a little/lot coarse for a high end amp like the BHSE/009 combo.
Yes someone I know has actually experienced this, but it wasn't with a KG head amp.
I try to stay away from speculation in cases like this.
 
Anyway good luck on building a T2, its my understanding that they are a pain and very time consuming to build.
imo building a amp like the T2 can be very risky and possibly end in a bad way.

 

[johnwmclean]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillysally /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
imo building a amp like the T2 can be very risky and possibly end in a bad way.

Most the people building these have the greatest respect for what they undertake, as intimidating as it is I should imagine the reward of a working amp to be sublime.

 

[kevin gilmore]

The T2 is the only tube amp with servo bias for both common mode and differential outputs.
The servo range is limited, and some tubes might require adjustment of the batteries.
 
There is no reason why you could not add a servo to most of the solid state amps.

 

[kiertijai]

Chinsettawong has just finished building DIY T2  (the first one in Thailand) and he is building the second one.
The DIY T2 runs hot but not as bad as expected.  He uses the Alps RK50 for volume control and that works very well.
During the recent minimeeting in Thailand last month we compared the SR009 vs HE90 vs O2 mkI vs SR Omega and DIY ES
headphone.   We have a consensus that the HE90 is the best out there , while O2mkI may be better matched than the
SR009 (a little bit bright).  One member (birdoffice) who has SR009 with Woo Wes agreed that the SR009
is better matched with the Woo Wes.   Surprisingly almost everyone agreed that the DIY ES headphone performed up to
the level of HE90 and similar to the O2mkI.  Some of them are in the DIY ES headphone right now and are having fun trying
to find the missing pieces or parts, some will make it sound like SR009 while other will try the HE90 Orpheus clone.
We are also trying to build the KGSSHV but none has finished so far , may take a few months more.
 

 

[spritzer]

For under 1500$ the SRM-727 is best choice out there.  Better just leave it as it is (i.e not modify it) as the softer top end works with the 009.  I've also compared the GES and WES side by side and preferred the GES by a large margin with SR-007 Mk2 (SZ3 version). 
 
Quote:

Sometimes pots can become very had to turn when there is very high heat involved. Expansion and contraction.

 
Just from a source that knows (i would hope) what he is talking about. From what I am told your T2 should run hotter than the BHSE.

 

That is the biggest load of BS I've heard in a while.  Pure and utter stupidity form somebody who hasn't even got even the slightest clue what they are talking about. 
 
The stock SRM-T2 ran hot (about 65°C on the top plate) but both the BHSE and T2DIY would be categorized and running pretty cool given the amount of power they are dissipating.  They are a far cry from even the cool running Class A speaker amps. 
 

 

[bcg27]

 
 

Anyway good luck on building a T2, its my understanding that they are a pain and very time consuming to build.
imo building a amp like the T2 can be very risky and possibly end in a bad way.

Time consuming yes. Dangerous? I don't think so unless you are not careful or stick your fingers across the output of the power supply lol. The only thing that it will be dangerous for is my wallet, but it still will be less than the higher priced commercial amps.  
 
Also, the T2 might give off a lot of heat, ie make your room hot, but the amp itself shouldn't run too hot given that all the tubes are external to the chassis and the amount of heatsinking. Of course I will not be using KG's excellent chassis as I unfortunately missed that boat, but the arrangement will be similar.

 

[sillysally]

Quote:

For under 1500$ the SRM-727 is best choice out there.  Better just leave it as it is (i.e not modify it) as the softer top end works with the 009.  I've also compared the GES and WES side by side and preferred the GES by a large margin with SR-007 Mk2 (SZ3 version). 
 

That is the biggest load of BS I've heard in a while.  Pure and utter stupidity form somebody who hasn't even got even the slightest clue what they are talking about. 
 
The stock SRM-T2 ran hot (about 65°C on the top plate) but both the BHSE and T2DIY would be categorized and running pretty cool given the amount of power they are dissipating.  They are a far cry from even the cool running Class A speaker amps. 

 

 
 
Well that all may be true, but the fact of the matter is it has happened and I am sure it will happen again. Never said it happened on a KG amp, now did I.However  now that you mention it, there are owners that have posted about how hot a BHSE does get. Or maybe you are right about everything and the world is all wrong.
 
Can you post a link from Stax that has the spects on the SRM-T2.
 
Don't forget you are not on that other forum, your on Head-Fi. This is a civilized forum not a "mean spirited" forum.
Stop doing what you seem to do best, slander and name calling. Its not cute or funny, its just childish.
 
 

 
 

 

[TMoney]

Quote:

Or maybe you are right about everything and the world is all wrong.
 
Don't forget you are not on that other forum, your on Head-Fi. This is a civilized forum not a "mean spirited" forum.
Stop doing what you seem to do best, slander and name calling. Its not cute or funny, its just childish.
 

 
Honestly, buddy, you sound like you have no idea what you are talking about. I'd drop it unless you do a little research and supply us with hard data. Hearsay isn't worth much.

 

[sillysally]

Quote:

 
 

Time consuming yes. Dangerous? I don't think so unless you are not careful or stick your fingers across the output of the power supply lol. The only thing that it will be dangerous for is my wallet, but it still will be less than the higher priced commercial amps.  
 
Also, the T2 might give off a lot of heat, ie make your room hot, but the amp itself shouldn't run too hot given that all the tubes are external to the chassis and the amount of heatsinking. Of course I will not be using KG's excellent chassis as I unfortunately missed that boat, but the arrangement will be similar.

I agree about the "Dangerous" seeing I never used the word Dangerous.
Tubes are a source of internal heat even though they are on the outside, but the main problem imo is the air circulation and how warm/hot a room becomes along with the ambient temperature around the amp. However as long as proper precautions are taken and yes KG's chaise would be a good start, you should be ok with the heat.
 
 
 

 

[kevin gilmore]

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2spec.jpg

 

[livewire]

Neuer Teppich?

 

[verwandlung]

Quote:

For under 1500$ the SRM-727 is best choice out there.  Better just leave it as it is (i.e not modify it) as the softer top end works with the 009.  I've also compared the GES and WES side by side and preferred the GES by a large margin with SR-007 Mk2 (SZ3 version). 

Spritzer, you almost make it sound as if the the SRM-727 was a better amp than the KGSSHV or the BHSE for the 009 (I know that you say “for under 1500$,” but still). Is it what you really mean?
 
Also, since I believe that on top of the BHSE you also have a DIY KGSSHV, I would very much like to hear briefly (and I am sure that I am not the only one!) what you think about how the two amps compare... with the 007, and the 009.
 
Thanks.
 

 

[bcg27]

Quote:

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2spec.jpg

Google translation (did a pretty decent job I think):
 
 
Tube amplifier for electrostatic headphones

preliminary Information
The SRM-T2 is designed not only as an amplifier for use with the "pro" of Stax electrostatic speakers, but without even a passive attitude Selektoreinheit amplifier. You can switch between different line level inputs.

*** The developed devices for high-fidelity dual triode 7308(6DJ8 equivalent) is used in the first amplifier stage, while the EL is reliable 34 (6CA7) used in the output stage.

*** As usual with Stax developments were everywhere whereit is possible, non-magnetic parts used in addition to the non-magnetic housing

*** The electronic components are resistant to aging and were selected for high tonal quality to

*** Neither transformers are still push-pull amplifier used in the SRM-T2. This also applies to the balanced XLR inputcircuit, in the SRM-T2 is a purist balanced integrated amplifier, which is responsible together with the dual-axis quadruple Lautstärkepegler for the sound quality.
*** The various inputs (3x phono, 1xXLR) can be selected by the input selector on the front side. The signal can be passed on to the main amplifier of the system, so that the SRM-T2 can also be used as a high quality input selector.

*** In order to ensure the high fidelity, the system is housed in two cases, once the main unit of SRM-T2, and secondly as a power supply SPS-T2

Specifications
Balanced Amplifier in Class-A technology for electrostatic ear speakers with passive selector function

Inputs 3 x RCA, 1 x XLR
Frequency range 1 Hz-70 kHz dB at an SR-Omega
Nominal input level 630 mV at 630 V output
Maximum output voltage 630 V r.m.s. / 1kHz
Maximum input level 30 V r.m.s. (at minimum volume)
Gain 60 dB (1000 times)
THD> 0.01% (1kHz/630mVr.ms in an SR-Omega)
Input impedance 50 k ohms or 100 k ohms (balanced input)
Polarization voltage 580 V DC
Power consumption 200 W (operating) 17 W (standby)
Ambient temperature 5 degrees to 35 degrees Celsius
Protection against moisture be guaranteed
Main unit dimensions 282x162x438 (WxHxD / mm)
PSU 212x138x420 (WxHxD / mm)
Weight (mass) main part 8 kg, 12 kg Power Supply