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post your grado mods....
Jul 2, 2013 at 9:18 PM Post #3,379 of 8,992
Quote:
tritonesub said:
So I guess I'm good to go! Awesome!
smily_headphones1.gif
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yes ur in a good position! Let the modding BEGIN! lol
 
Jul 2, 2013 at 9:35 PM Post #3,381 of 8,992
Quote:
pintodave said:
Did up some quick Mahogany cups for my SR-60. Not perfect, but decent enough to sample the wood! Pics coming! Need to find some screen material.
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el cheapo mesh pencil holder... thats the only clue I'm giving lol
 
Jul 2, 2013 at 11:40 PM Post #3,383 of 8,992
Actually that's what I've been using for all of my cups so far. Bought a cheap $3 mail filer/holder at Walmart and have used it for the past three cups I've done for myself. Get's the job done, that's for sure!
 
I did a full liberation to these driver's this time to allow the rocking motion on the gimbles again. The smaller cup diameter allows this. The previous cups were larger and didn't rock, they were flush with the gimbles.
 
Here they are!

 

 
Comparing these to the zapote cups these headphones had previously, the bass is more precise and punchy, less "colored" or resonating, also not as deep. Highs are brighter, music seems to be much more defined and neutral. Not a bad sound just.....cleaner. I still enjoy the cocobolo cups on my SR-80i more though. :p :D
 
I'm waiting for some brass pipe to arrive so I can do some custom gimbles for my SR-80i as well.
 
I've still got some honduran rosewood and padauk for future cups!
 
Jul 3, 2013 at 9:44 AM Post #3,384 of 8,992
Looks great! I like to do mine with the endgrain on the face, then you can get a nice bookmatch and they cut uniformly on the lathe. Also, the surface on the resonance chamber is most uniform... but once you get the process figured out, it's an addiction centered around making more cups out of new things. That's why I went to CNC for all the critical bits, total uniformity and it allows me to play with the face alone on the lathe. Gives me much more listening time and less tinkering time. :)
 
Well done
 
Jul 3, 2013 at 10:30 AM Post #3,385 of 8,992
Quote:
pintodave said:
Actually that's what I've been using for all of my cups so far. Bought a cheap $3 mail filer/holder at Walmart and have used it for the past three cups I've done for myself. Get's the job done, that's for sure!
 
I did a full liberation to these driver's this time to allow the rocking motion on the gimbles again. The smaller cup diameter allows this. The previous cups were larger and didn't rock, they were flush with the gimbles.
 
Here they are!

 

 
Comparing these to the zapote cups these headphones had previously, the bass is more precise and punchy, less "colored" or resonating, also not as deep. Highs are brighter, music seems to be much more defined and neutral. Not a bad sound just.....cleaner. I still enjoy the cocobolo cups on my SR-80i more though. :p :D
 
I'm waiting for some brass pipe to arrive so I can do some custom gimbles for my SR-80i as well.
 
I've still got some honduran rosewood and padauk for future cups!
Click to expand...

How's the fit for the driver? What size forstner bit did you use? I'm using a 45MM and then sanding. 
 
Jul 3, 2013 at 4:58 PM Post #3,386 of 8,992
Have spent time with my 225 pinks in Paduak now and am really liking the sound. As always noted, is warmer than stock plastic, less trebly. I am getting okay (typical for Grado) soundstage and detail still as well.

I am curious about mount methods though. Am still in foam so I might be losing the full effect.
 
Jul 3, 2013 at 6:25 PM Post #3,388 of 8,992
I hope to...been trawling through lostMidrange's stuff to see what can be picked from what he didn't delete...

I actually based my most recent cups very loosely on his designs...
 
Jul 4, 2013 at 12:56 AM Post #3,389 of 8,992
I don't remember exactly what size I used, but can figure it out later for you. I know that I didn't have one the same size as the driver so I used one close to the driver size, then offset the bit by 1/16" to widen the driver seat hole enough for it to fit.

My technique probably differs from the rest of you guys since I am using a shopsmith power station with the lathe setup, and an improvised setup involving a drill press chuck and forstner bits to hollow the wood. I don't mill the center out with anything but the forstner bit, and adjust the offset of it to widen the openings.

I will do a single shot video of my work when I do my next cups in Honduran rosewood so you guys can see how easy the shopsmith makes this!
 
Jul 4, 2013 at 5:55 AM Post #3,390 of 8,992
I got these SR80s at the flea market today, but no pads. 
So I cut out 4 circles of some foam I have lying around. (using a very sharp craft knife, trace around a small glass/cup or other round object, and a coin for the small hole)
Cut one big hole in 2 to fit around the cups. 
Cut a smaller hole in 2 for the sound to travel - used a smaller hole as I find mos of the bass comes from the centre of the driver, and treble from the outside. So this helps reduce treble for me.
Then glued them with craft glue (contact adhesive)
 
It is a bit ugly, but works much better than I expected. 

 
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