[mminutel]

I just got my Pioneer PL-512 today. USPS left it in 20 degree weather on my front porch for about five hours. To my chagrin, the dust cover is busted crazy around the hinges. I can't really do anything about that, though.

Anyways, onto the actual questions. It doesn't actually have a needle, but it has a Shure R1000XT cartridge. Anyone have any info on that cartridge? I am probably going to replace it. Whoever serviced it before wasn't handy with a soldering iron. I will need to fix that. Anyways, there are little "spade" connectors on them, except for on that is soldered directly. Where can I get these at? Also, any advice on what type of replacement wire I should use? It currently has something like 18 awg solid core.

The tracking force adjustment was off of the counterweight when I received it. I popped it back on, but turning it doesn't seem to yield any results. Is it just so small of a movement that it is hard to notice?

As for the tonearm itself, whenever I put it into the on position, it wants to pivot to the right. Even if the position lever is in the down position, before it can touch the record, it "slides" off of the table. Any ideas?

I think that is pretty much it. I was thinking of getting the Grado Black, but I have heard that it is lackluster. Does anyone have any other recommendations?

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel It doesn't actually have a needle, but it has a Shure R1000XT cartridge. Anyone have any info on that cartridge? I am probably going to replace it.

This is actually a pretty decent cart, being a Radioshack rebadged Shure but it's not really suitable for the arm on the Pioneer which is quite high mass around 16g so the best carts would be one of the Audio Technica's like the AT95E, AT110E or AT120.
Or even better if you can stretch to it a Denon Moving Coil like the DL-110 / DL160 or if you have a pre-amp that can do lower output MC then a DL-103.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel Whoever serviced it before wasn't handy with a soldering iron. I will need to fix that. Anyways, there are little "spade" connectors on them, except for on that is soldered directly. Where can I get these at?

You can inexpensive stuff like this at any DJ pro audio store or you can spend a small fortune on audiophile grade silver plated tags and cables like the Michell ones. Or you could just get a new headshell like the Stanton HS-4 which is made of a superior magnesium alloy for around 10 bucks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel The tracking force adjustment was off of the counterweight when I received it. I popped it back on, but turning it doesn't seem to yield any results. Is it just so small of a movement that it is hard to notice?

You need to push it on gently until you find the thread and then you should be able to screw it on so that the calibration will then work properly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel As for the tonearm itself, whenever I put it into the on position, it wants to pivot to the right. Even if the position lever is in the down position, before it can touch the record, it "slides" off of the table. Any ideas?

That's completely normal. You need to reset the antiskating dial to zero to stop it doing this so you can calibrate the tonearm properly when you get a new cart mounted.

 

[mminutel]

Even with anti skate at zero, the tonearm has a tendency to move to the right. Once I have the tracking force set, it has enough friction on the bar that raises and lowers it to stay in place. I have to think, though, that it may mess up the anti skate on it.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel /img/forum/go_quote.gif Even with anti skate at zero, the tonearm has a tendency to move to the right. Once I have the tracking force set, it has enough friction on the bar that raises and lowers it to stay in place. I have to think, though, that it may mess up the anti skate on it.

These things are seldom 100% accurately calibrated. It just sounds like yours is a little overzealous which is better than the opposite.
When you caibrate the cart ideally use a stylus force gauge and just ensure that the stylus lifts off and comes down in the same groove on a record as it plays and you'll have it set fine.