[mminutel]

I will not be moving my amp or anything so should I just do dry transfer or should I send them to FPE? If I were to use FPE, can anyone walk to me through the process? How much does it cost? Do you have to send the end panels in yourself?

Anyone have any links to some good dry transfers?

 

[Pars]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mminutel /img/forum/go_quote.gif I will not be moving my amp or anything so should I just do dry transfer or should I send them to FPE? If I were to use FPE, can anyone walk to me through the process? How much does it cost? Do you have to send the end panels in yourself? Anyone have any links to some good dry transfers?

Check luvdunhill's thread on casing questions for some good dry transfer links.

As far as FPE goes, I had them do the front panel for my dynalo (link in the referenced thread) using the panel supplied by ParMetal. You use their software to lay out the panel, then send the resulting file in to them, along with shipping your panel to them. They do charge a setup fee for customer-supplied material (the software did not include this, but supposedly does now). My panel ran around $50-$60. In my experience, this is the best way to do things, as the dry transfer will rub off unless you coat it with clear topcoat. Also note that with FPE, the panel is machined post-anodize (or whatever the panel finish is). They will fill the lettering in with paint (several colors available). In my case, since the panel was natural anodize, I just left the lettering unfilled.

 

[mminutel]

Thanks Pars. I hate to spend $60 on the amp so I think I will go with the dry transfer method.

This will have a constant supply so what is a really nice LED to use? I have used generic LEDs in the past but they just look cheap. I would prefer something with a descent amount of light output.

The amp has a 1V offset at powerdown. I have heard of people using a DPDT switch so that the caps are drained straight to the ground instead of routing through the headphones, but what do I need to connect to the other 2 lugs?

I am using a Lorlin Rotary Switch for the Crossfeed. Should I use a Make-Before-Break or Break-Before-Make switch?

 

[mminutel]

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