[EddieE]

^ Looks very similar to the disc at the back of the ATH-M50 cup.

 

[rhythmdevils]

It's been a while since I opened the M50, but from memory it's actually a bit thicker than that stuff.  It might actually be thick enough to do the same thing they did with the M50 with something like a T10 or T20v1- make a big puck and just let the back up the cup hold it onto the driver.  I'll have to try this tomorrow.  That will be one heavily damped ortho.  It seems to affect frequencies fairly evenly though so it could work. 

 

[iQEM]

hi guys, long time no posting here...*after settle down with my NAD bassheavy stock...
before sharing what i found lately, welcome to ortho world Katun...

 
how it's goin in ortho world ?
my lastest project are give some sealing & simple damping on my friend Lambda pro...first time impression, i heard alot of extended highs but huge spacious staging but in some songs i've heard vocal become sibilance and harsh even not too much..sound too steril for me, where's the impact/slam/body ? the owner ask me to damp it to be more warmer and fuller body, like other ortho that i've dampened before...
he grab it not in the stock form, i guess...foam on the grill are dissapear, and the inside that cup are a layer of glasswool, dont it suppose to be using mineral wool or that's another lambda's ?
seal the gap between drivers and baffle with foss that i used alot, add 4 layer of wet tissues (they dried, offcourse) at the open area vents, then add thin layer rockwool cover all the open area...
sound awesome now, without any harsh or sibilance on vocal...still have the shiny upper highs but without any peak, while the low bass sound dynamic with slam & impact with speed and tight...
along with the spacious staging but good clear headstage...superb detail, ala planar offcourse...
back to my NAD paired to my SSMH, it's sound more dull & darker now...a openless muffled tipe sound, so different with the Lambda pro..
do some A/Bing between the 2 setup with same source, now i know why NAD RP-18 bassheavy called dark or bass monstrous..

before do some damping on the Stax, i'm pretty sure (in my portable setup) my stock NAD are not left too far away from LCD2...
well, my NAD not have that open&rich treble like LCD2 but they both similar on the low section...but now, i'm confuse...
i try put some transpore beneath the magnet & mineral wools, not bring up the high/openness much, still sound dull, muffle, darker & loose than the Stax...
so i removed the mineral wool, add other scheme of sandwich mdae from thin felt, fish foam...add the high & open more but trade-off a lot of low, not good...
now, i return the NAD into stock condition think for another scheme to try..any ideas of scheme to share, for me ? to use on this equal sibbling of T50v0 ?
thank's before...

 

[Faust2D]

Check this company out they sell a lot of cool felt, foam and all that type of stuff on Amazon. I tried some of this stuff, works well.
 
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_kitchen?_encoding=UTF8&node=1055398&field-brandtextbin=Cleverbrand

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Check this company out they sell a lot of cool felt, foam and all that type of stuff on Amazon. I tried some of this stuff, works well.
 
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_kitchen?_encoding=UTF8&node=1055398&field-brandtextbin=Cleverbrand

Well, it's not headphone related, but the felt ironing board pad could have been brilliant if it was 100% wool and preshrunk.  But, it's not and it's just a big, expensive piece of polyester felt.  
 
:Facepalm: 

 

[Ishcabible]

Quote:

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I just scored a Realistic Pro 50 for $50 shipped.
 

Fingers crossed on that Pro 50. I bought one from tyre years ago and it was amazing (but no bass), then got two more on my own from eBaysters... and they stank.

Huh. I have a Pro 50 and it sounds very smooth, almost exactly like my K240 Sextetts, except maybe with more bass. Only grievance with them is the aluminum plate over the cups; it's purely decoration and adds a considerable amount of unnecessary weight. My Sextetts simply have the leather headband's slider pinned in place, but I had to replace the elastics on the Pro 50s to make them comfortable at all.
 
Then again, the Pro 50 is feather-light compared to the HE-6. The weight is distributed better on the HE-6, though.

Okay, non-ortho related, but I wanted to answer this mystery, since I got them today.
 
These have the Middle Production radiators, and sound incredibly smooth. The plastic grill is really annoying though. And these aren't anything close to bassless. They are far from stink, at least from my opinion of stink.

 

[rhythmdevils]

I just picked up a YH3.  They sound pretty darn good stock to my surprise.  Maybe I got a good pair or something.  There is a bit of an echo or resonance to the sound but the balance isn't too bad, I wouldn't really want anymore treble or less bass.  I'll have to see if I can get them open...

 

[gurubhai]

^That would mean they are not bass heavy, so go with the usual damping schemes for HP-1/2.
 
@iQEM : Try earpads with larger opening like SR-30/SR-X pads or the ATH W11 pads. You can also try O2 pads too but they would also increase the bass.

 

[iQEM]

aha...thx for remind me, i'm still have that Stax pads from Kabeer..

so O2 pads only good for the NAD basslight, not for the bassheavy...right ?

 

[gurubhai]

Compared to LCD-2, the NADs I have heard, are bass light. Dunno why people call them bass monsters.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

aha...thx for remind me, i'm still have that Stax pads from Kabeer..

so O2 pads only good for the NAD basslight, not for the bassheavy...right ?

The O2 pads are going to take your bass heavy RP18s to a new level of bass heavy unless you damp them with tape and felt.
 


Quote:

Compared to LCD-2, the NADs I have heard, are bass light. Dunno why people call them bass monsters.

There are two versions of the RP18 floating around.  Only Kabeer has had a bass light version.  All of the others I'm aware of are bass heavy, very bass heavy.  The challenge is that when you have their bass tuned, the soundstage collapses. I've been tweaking my pair and Questa's for a long time now, trying to get a nice balance.  Without major mods, there is no easy way to widen the stage, so they will just have to be narrow but extremely detailed headphones.   I consider them very similar to the T10s, but with everything just 10X to 100X better. 

 

[Tordenskjold]

So, I only have a rough Idea as to what "orthodynamic" actually means, but have read a bit here. Now today my local newspapers website offered me an insert: used Yamaha HP-1 29€  
 
So, enlighten me - go for it? What is there to expect? How will these sound and are they worth their money?
 
 
Edit: Wow, I actually found another one für 30€, newspaper sections rock, it seems.  

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Compared to LCD-2, the NADs I have heard, are bass light. Dunno why people call them bass monsters.

Because you dont have the dark sounding Kapton NAD.
The Kapton and Mylar NADs are tuned very differently.

 

[gurubhai]

^ I was just kidding, I do know that there are two versions.

 

[Philimon]

I have read that orthos work well with vintage receivers as a cheap source for a relatively powerful amp, but are they talking from the receiver's headphone out or using an adapter with the speaker outs? I am asking because I purchased an HE-4 and am wondering if I should order an adapter too for my vintage receiver (Luxman R1050 - 55wpc)? From doing quick research on Audiokarma - receivers will put out power of 2-5W (depending) at the headphone out. I do not know how I can figure out how much power my headphone out serves, but what are the chances it will be enough? Thank you.