O2 AMP + ODAC
Oct 28, 2015 at 9:19 AM Post #4,757 of 5,671
Wes1099, have you checked R17 & R19 & R21 & R23 if correct values? Also  R12 & R13 and R14 & R20 and R3 & R7 and R16 & R22 worth to be checked too. Just be 110% sure all of these resistors have to correct values, as per nwavguy's schematic.
I measured the values of each resistor before I soldered them on, but I can check them again. I have tried changing the volume of the source and turning the pot up and down but it did not change anything. The JDS labs support guy suggested that I install the 3.5mm jack instead of the 1/4 inch jack to see if that changes anything.

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Oct 28, 2015 at 6:12 PM Post #4,758 of 5,671
I just realized, it might not be that the left channel is louder than the right, it might be that the right channel simply lacks the low-mid and low frequencies, but the upper mids and highs are there.  I measured each resistor and they all measured the way they should except for 2. R8 measured 235Kohm when it should measure ~270Kohm like R4, R5, and R24. Then, R25 measures 0.4Mohm when it should measure 1.5Mohm. My measurements are probably not 100% accurate, but they should be close.
 
Oct 30, 2015 at 7:18 AM Post #4,761 of 5,671
  I'm glad you did resolved it!
 
Anyway, what about R8 and R25? Are you sure are not the correct values? If so, you should probably replace those with the correct values resistors.

I am not sure my multimeter is reading them correctly. I will measure with a different multimeter later and see if they need to be replaced.
 
Oct 30, 2015 at 9:49 AM Post #4,763 of 5,671
If you measure a resistor in-circuit, it's quite possible and even likely that you will get an INCORRECT value. (Depending on the circuitry involved, and your meter, it's also possible to damage the circuitry itself.) Some meters have what's called a "low power ohms scale" - if so, then using this would make it more likely that you would get correct readings, and less likely that you would damage something, but it's still not a great idea to measure resistors in-circuit unless you specifically know that it's OK in the particular device you're testing.
 
Quote:
  Did u measure them in the circuit or out of the circuit??
 
A.

 
Oct 30, 2015 at 10:58 AM Post #4,764 of 5,671
  Of course Hifiman is going to recommend their own amplifiers for it: it's called business! I find it interesting, though, what your rationale is behind:

....but usually planars need the right voltage/amperage ratio to be driven correctly. Usually tubes or J-FET diamond buffers can do that properly, but I doubt that 2 paralleled NJM4556 can do it perfectly, especially for the HE6 planars, despite the fact that O2 has enough voltage and current to drive them.
 
If it can supply enough voltage and current, and provide more than decent distortion figures and slew rates, what's the problem with it? The prototype might've needed 5W to go loud, but at 5W, the production one could go up to ~120 dB.

 
Exactly.... a lot of people seem to be confused about the relationship between voltage, current, and power.
 
When you see something like "the impedance is 50 ohms and it needs 2 watts to reach 110 dB", what you need to do is to calculate the voltage and current it would take to produce 2 watts INTO THAT LOAD, and, if the amp can deliver BOTH ENOUGH VOLTAGE AND ENOUGH CURRENT to reach that level, then it should be fine.
 
Remember that most amps have both a voltage limit and a current limit. For example, let's assume I run both a "speaker" amp and a headphone amp using a single 4556 op amp off of a +/- 15V power supply. The 15V power rails limit both to about 8V RMS. However, if the speaker amp is rated to work into 4 ohms, then it can deliver about 2 Amps (2000 mA), while a single 4556 op amp is rated for about 70 mA. If you do the calculations, you will find that, into a pair of 150 ohm headphones, both will deliver the SAME amount of power - because the power will be limited by their output voltage (a pair of 150 ohm headphones will only draw about 50 mA at 8 VRMS; which both the speaker amp and the op amp can deliver easily). However, into an 8 ohm load, the speaker amp can deliver 8 watts, while the 4556 op amp will deliver less than 40 mW (because its 70 mA current limit limits it to delivering that much power into 8 Ohms).
 
The upshot of all this is that.....
 
 - With regular headphones (low to medium impedance, high efficiency), most headphone amps can deliver both enough voltage and enough current to get them to run plenty loudly and sound very good. (They'll get loud and sound good.)
 
- With high impedance headphones (150 ohms, 300 ohms, 600 ohms), most headphone amps can deliver plenty of current, but many amps that run on lower voltage rails can't deliver enough voltage. (They'll sound great but may not get very loud, and you may be able to clip the amp at relatively low output levels, although there's a good chance you'll peg the volume control and it may just not get very loud).
 
- With low efficiency planars (usually low to medium impedance), most amplifiers would deliver plenty of voltage, but you often need a "speaker amp" or a specially designed headphone amp to deliver enough CURRENT to drive them satisfactorily. (And a headphone amp that can't deliver enough current will sound fine at very low levels, but will clip very easily.) Headphone amps that use op amps like the 4556 will NOT deliver enough current to run low efficiency planars.
 
- High efficiency planars have pretty much the same requirements as regular headphones.
 
You also need to consider that the ratings you see on op amps are usually "absolute maximums". An NJM4556 is rated to put out about 70 mA, which means that two paralleled ones could could put out at most 140 mA (if they don't share exactly it could be somewhat less). However, they will probably produce more distortion at current levels near that than they do at lower levels, so they may not sound good at all if you run them near their limits (this will depend on the individual op amp, and on other aspects of the overall design). 
 
Oct 30, 2015 at 4:46 PM Post #4,765 of 5,671

  Did u measure them in the circuit or out of the circuit??
 
A.

 
 
                                                                                                               
If you measure a resistor in-circuit, it's quite possible and even likely that you will get an INCORRECT value. (Depending on the circuitry involved, and your meter, it's also possible to damage the circuitry itself.) Some meters have what's called a "low power ohms scale" - if so, then using this would make it more likely that you would get correct readings, and less likely that you would damage something, but it's still not a great idea to measure resistors in-circuit unless you specifically know that it's OK in the particular device you're testing.

I measured them all before I soldered them to the PCB, then I measured them on the PCB without power applied to it.
 
Oct 30, 2015 at 9:51 PM Post #4,766 of 5,671
So I've seen mixed reactions to this question: is the popping sound when shutting down the O2 harmful? One of mine gives a slight click while the other gives a healthy pow! I generally unplug my cans before pressing the power. I've done the suggested tests and voltage relays seem good. I've also checked dc voltage at the output terminals and it peaks at 0.6v when turning on or off. From what I understand, this should ok. How can I be sure that it's OK to leave my headphones connected when powering off?
 
Oct 31, 2015 at 3:20 PM Post #4,768 of 5,671
So I've seen mixed reactions to this question: is the popping sound when shutting down the O2 harmful? One of mine gives a slight click while the other gives a healthy pow! I generally unplug my cans before pressing the power. I've done the suggested tests and voltage relays seem good. I've also checked dc voltage at the output terminals and it peaks at 0.6v when turning on or off. From what I understand, this should ok. How can I be sure that it's OK to leave my headphones connected when powering off?

 
 
  I never had a problem with this clicking/popping DC on my headphones. What headphones are you talking about, please?

I get the slightest popping sound about 5% of the time when I turn on my O2. Although, mine is so quiet that you have to listen carefully for it.
 
Oct 31, 2015 at 9:13 PM Post #4,769 of 5,671
Does anyone have any experience with the standalone ODAC plugged in with the computer? I have it hooked up with my Audioengine A2 desktop speakers, but the ODAC makes everything too loud. My system sound is always somewhere between 10 - 15, and music player around 50%. If I turn the A2 down too low, then the volume distribution between the speakers will be unbalanced. Anyone have any experience with this? 
 

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