[Hunter_Killer]

Do you guys make PCBs using a pen and acid bath or machine ?

Im starting out and dont have the machine

thanks for any info

 

[Voodoochile]

I use toner transfer and heated/aerated etch. Touch up with a sharpie is needed. been working very well for a good while now.

 

[Hunter_Killer]

Thanks mate !

How long does say a relatively well made amp last ? Does anything reduce this lifespan that I should avoid ?

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Do you guys make PCBs using a pen and acid bath or machine ?

Simple boards I make with positive photo process. I found the toner transfer method to give very iffy results. Maybe my iron or laser printer just isn't suitable... (Anyone want my remaining toner transfer sheets?)

Complicated boards I send off for manufacturing.

Quote:

dont have the machine

Which machine?

Quote:

How long does say a relatively well made amp last ?

Assuming you don't abuse the amp, the component most likely to die first are the electrolytic caps. Their lifetime numbers are given in their datasheet. The number is given in thousands of hours, and it applies at the rated temperature. With every 10C drop in temperature, you can reasonably count on a doubling of the lifetime. So, given two caps, one rated for 1000 hours at 85C and another for 1000 hours at 105C, the latter should last 4x as long all else being equal. If you operate them both at room temperature (25C), the 85C one should last 64,000 hours, and the 100C one 256,000 hours.

Also, realize that this lifetime rating refers to how long the cap stays in spec. Beyond the rated lifetime, the cap doesn't just blow up, it may even stay in spec for much longer. All it means is, the cap could start to drop out of spec after that much time and the cap maker wouldn't be liable for shortened lifetime. Some specs don't matter as much as others. Often old electrolytics just start to drop in capacitance, which isn't a big problem in most systems.

The other components in standard solid-state amps are virtually eternal if they're run within their specs. You could imagine odd situations where the amp would last a long time but not "forever". For instance, some power supplies run the diode slightly out of spec during the brief instant of turn-on. Most of the time this isn't going to matter, but perhaps over time the diode might be stressed enough to suddenly stop working. The next question is, if one diode dies, does it take anything else down with it? Maybe yes, maybe no, depending on the system design.

Like with any other electrical appliance, turn it off when you aren't using it, keep it dust-free where practical, and don't abuse it.

 

[jefemeister]

if you're only doing a few boards, it makes sense to use either of these services:

www.pcbexpress.com
www.apcircuits.com

I'm pretty sure you can get a free pcb layout program from apcircuits. Protel also offers a 30-day full-feature free evaluation of their product via their webpage.

 

[Excalibur]

This is the best method to use for making PCB's if you want professional results:

http://www.philmore-datak.com/POSTIVE.htm

 

[Hunter_Killer]

Thanks alot for the replies fellas/ladies they are great help

I am surprised by the amount of info available online on making amps

 

[ginettaman]

i've used inkjet photo paper used in my laser printer for great results, much better than the blue transfer paper which you can buy. Have made at least 20 pcd's for guitar effects and cmoy amp, and only had one not work and that was my fault.

 

[Voodoochile]

Quote:

Originally posted by ginettaman i've used inkjet photo paper used in my laser printer for great results, much better than the blue transfer paper which you can buy. Have made at least 20 pcd's for guitar effects and cmoy amp, and only had one not work and that was my fault.

That's what I've been doing, too. Works great.
But I have a friend who tried it with the same paper and model of printer, but a different iron, and results were sub-optimal.

 

[Arzela]

I've had great results with the glossy photo
paper also. One great thing about it is that
the gloss turns
to glue when heat is applied (at least the paper I use
does). This keeps the image from shifting around.
Very sharp results, even if I have to move
the iron around.

 

[Mcrmouse30]

Quote:

Originally posted by Voodoochile That's what I've been doing, too. Works great. But I have a friend who tried it with the same paper and model of printer, but a different iron, and results were sub-optimal.

I am interested in this. Have any good links that go into detail?

 

[ginettaman]

This is the link to the site you need for info on making pbc's with inkjet paper/iron.

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm

try it, it does work well.

 

[Excalibur]

I use a laser printer with Kodak transparency sheets (like the kind for overhead projectors). Then expose the pattern with a florescent lamp. --> develop --> etch board.
Laser printers will give a sharper image than inkjet but either will work fine.

 

[Gariver]

Here's a link for PCB making supplies...

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/level.itml/icOid/218

Good luck with this!

 

[Hunter_Killer]

Thanks alot I will try them out