[amb]

pabbi1, if you must use Vishay-something (although I am not sure why that is important), there is Vishay-BC PR02 series 1 ohm 2W metal-film resistors for R9. Mouser #594-5083NW1R000J

z2trillion, do not change R9 to 10 ohms. If you do you won't be able to properly adjust the bias of the MOSFETs without also changing the value of R7. Changing R9 to 10 ohms will increase the output impedance somewhat, but more importantly it will reduce available voltage swing because of the voltage drop across them will be 10x compared to 1 ohm given a particular quiescent current setting.

 

[pabbi1]

Thanks, AMB, just trying to be consistent... otherwise, I'd always have that nagging feeling, especially as no one ever *recommends* Xicon.

 

[Nisbeth]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX No... in fact i prefer the green ones but try dispelling the myth that Wimas are the best 5 times a day and it gets old real fast.

My bet is that the myth started in the US because they're made in Europe and they're hard to get

Over here where even "ye olde electronics shop around the corner" has them, no one seem to think much of Wima caps (except me, but that's because I'm a fashion victim who likes the color

)

/U.

 

[thrice]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX the green ones but try dispelling the myth that Wimas are the best 5 times a day and it gets old real fast. Sometimes it's easier when you don't provoke the questions.

LOL-testify!

 

[morsel]

I like the blue BC Components (now a division of Vishay) film caps.

 

[jamont]

Here's a look at mine in progress:

I've done everything except the output transistors and bass boost, I need mounting hardware for the heatsinks before proceeding.

Next step is to mount the output transistors, check things out and do the biasing, check the offset, then do some listening tests and measurements.

At that point, I may adjust the gain, and when that's set, I'll figure out what to use for the bass boost.

Thanks to morsel and amb for another great project!

 

[amb]

jamont, looks great!

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb jamont, looks great!

Thank you!

BTW, do you think it matters if the heatsinks are attached with self-tapping screws or is it preferable to tap the heatsinks and use machine screws? My thought offhand was that self-tapping screws would be easier and should be fine since I won't be disconnecting the heatsinks after final assembly.

 

[DigiPete]

Here's a look at mine in progress:

I've done everything except the output transistors and bass boost, I need mounting hardware for the heatsinks before proceeding.

ouuuu, ahhhh!!! I like the blue

What parts did you order to get blue, also what caps did you choose if one might ask?

Thanks
DigiPete

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont do you think it matters if the heatsinks are attached with self-tapping screws or is it preferable to tap the heatsinks and use machine screws?

Either is fine as long as it's mechanically secure.

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DigiPete ouuuu, ahhhh!!! I like the blue What parts did you order to get blue, also what caps did you choose if one might ask?

Resistors are Xicon MF 1/4 W and MO 2W, trimpots are Bourns 3296W, small caps are BC 370 and BC 416, electrolytics are Nichicon UPW. I wasn't trying to get everything blue, it just came out that way.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont I wasn't trying to get everything blue, it just came out that way.

Accidentally stylish!

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamont Here's a look at mine in progress:

jamont,

And idea what the total parts cost was? I know that there are a bunch of us waiting to see how much this is going to hurt.

Thx,

Nate

 

[morsel]

Nice job so far, Jamont. I see you are using my beloved BC caps.

Go with self-tapping screws, as they are convenient and the heat sinks are unlikely to be removed.

 

[jamont]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher And idea what the total parts cost was? I know that there are a bunch of us waiting to see how much this is going to hurt.

I had most resistors, caps, and opamps on hand already, so I've spent under $100 so far, mostly on the board and related parts. If you're starting from scratch it should be comparable with the PPA, maybe a bit less.