[[OverDrive]]

Actual values of delivery. Tests carried out by the manufacturer on my request
 
http://www.ilgazeboaudiofilo.com/t11864-erogazione-little-dot-mk-vi
 
50ohm 9V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 1,62W REAL.
120ohm 10V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,83W REAL
300ohm 16V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,85W REAL
600ohm 20V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,66W REAL

 

[SonicTrance]

So like, anyone know how to remove that screw on the left? :confused_face(1):


As you can see my efforts haven't worked out so well....

You need to drill that bad boy out VERY carefully. I can't see that coming out any other way.

 

[SonicTrance]

Actual values of delivery. Tests carried out by the manufacturer on my request

http://www.ilgazeboaudiofilo.com/t11864-erogazione-little-dot-mk-vi

50ohm 9V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 1,62W REAL.
120ohm 10V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,83W REAL
300ohm 16V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,85W REAL
600ohm 20V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,66W REAL

I don't get it. So you're saying the mk6 only puts out 0,83 watts of power into 120 ohms?

 

[[OverDrive]]

exactly

 

[greenkiwi]

You might try cutting a slot with a dremmel tool.

Here are some other tips

http://lifehacker.com/5901738/how-to-remove-screws-with-stripped-heads

 

[coinmaster]

Yeah I tried that, that's why it looks so bad right now lol. My dremmel attachment was too thick. I just tried filling it in with solder and recutting it with the dremmel but apparently solder is too soft to turn with a screwdriver.
This screw is really in there tight.
 
I'll have to go to home depot tomorrow and hope one of those screw extractors work.
 
EDIT: Nevermind, the solder method worked! I filled in the hole with solder and hammered the flat head screwdriver deep into it and turned with all my might. 

 
Now I can't figure out how to remove the knob so I can take the circuit board out 

 

[SonicTrance]

  Actual values of delivery. Tests carried out by the manufacturer on my request
 
http://www.ilgazeboaudiofilo.com/t11864-erogazione-little-dot-mk-vi
 
50ohm 9V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 1,62W REAL.
120ohm 10V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,83W REAL
300ohm 16V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,85W REAL
600ohm 20V RMS from this data we obtain a supply of 0,66W REAL

I've tried to read that thread using google translate but not easy to understand. But you say the manufacturer made those tests, so Little Dot.
Then why this statement in the specs? "1W per channel into 50 ohms, 5W per channel in 120 ohms"

 

[[OverDrive]]

  I've tried to read that thread using google translate but not easy to understand. But you say the manufacturer made those tests, so Little Dot.
Then why this statement in the specs? "1W per channel into 50 ohms, 5W per channel in 120 ohms"

I do not say, but the producer, after my request.
 
Link: http://www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2016&sid=be0b357d2de69d96cf4b9f39320cdaaa
 
The values shown in the site Little Dot are not RMS values. They are peak values. The real value is when there is a connected load (impedance - ohms).

 

[SonicTrance]

  I do not say, but the producer, after my request.
 
Link: http://www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2016&sid=be0b357d2de69d96cf4b9f39320cdaaa
 
The values shown in the site Little Dot are not RMS values. They are peak values. The real value is when there is a connected load (impedance - ohms).

So "1W per channel into 50 ohms" is peak, and the real value into 50 ohms is 1,62W. It doesn't make sense to me, lol.

 

[[OverDrive]]

  So "1W per channel into 50 ohms" is peak, and the real value into 50 ohms is 1,62W. It doesn't make sense to me, lol.

Write to the manufacturer for clarification.

 

[SonicTrance]

  Write to the manufacturer for clarification.

No use. IME you don't get very good answers from David. You ask four questions and he answers one. Then you ask two more and he answers zero, lol. 
 
The amp sounds good nonetheless so I'm not to worried about the numbers. Was just trying to understand them

 

 

[[OverDrive]]

  No use. IME you don't get very good answers from David. You ask four questions and he answers one. Then you ask two more and he answers zero, lol. 
 
The amp sounds good nonetheless so I'm not to worried about the numbers. Was just trying to understand them

 

The Little Dot MKVI + is a great amp / pre headset, when you consider the price / performance ratio.
The weakness is in the Gain. When set to a high level, that is suitable for such difficult AKG K1000 headphones, the sound quality suffers.
The sound loses sophistication and hardens above all in medium-high range.

 

[SonicTrance]

  The Little Dot MKVI + is a great amp / pre headset, when you consider the price / performance ratio.
The weakness is in the Gain. When set to a high level, that is suitable for such difficult AKG K1000 headphones, the sound quality suffers.
The sound loses sophistication and hardens above all in medium-high range.

Good value for sure!
I've honestly never even tried the high gain setting. Never felt the need as my cans aren't that hard to drive.

 

[Maxx134]

 
No use. IME you don't get very good answers from David. You ask four questions and he answers one. Then you ask two more and he answers zero, lol. 

The amp sounds good nonetheless so I'm not to worried about the numbers. Was just trying to understand them  

The Little Dot MKVI + is a great amp / pre headset, when you consider the price / performance ratio.
The weakness is in the Gain. When set to a high level, that is suitable for such difficult AKG K1000 headphones, the sound quality suffers.
The sound loses sophistication and hardens above all in medium-high range.

Since they are 120ohm impedance,
I believe that it is more the trait of those headphones when driven harder, and not really pertaining to the MK6:


You might wanna try a "current driven" amp instead to see if you have better results.

It is coincidental that Ridge78 proposed to me solution for harder to drive planars that we might look into, yet the mk6 should not have any problem with newer planars like, say an Ether or he560.

 

[[OverDrive]]

Since they are 120ohm impedance,
I believe that it is more the trait of those headphones when driven harder, and not really pertaining to the MK6:


You might wanna try a "current driven" amp instead to see if you have better results.

It is coincidental that Ridge78 proposed to me solution for harder to drive planars that we might look into, yet the mk6 should not have any problem with newer planars like, say an Ether or he560.

Unfortunately, English is not my language and it is hard to explain.
 
The AKG K1000 headphones are difficult to drive and to be coupled, that's for sure.
The data however showed me the producer are related only impedances given by laboratory tests, each headphone is excluded.
The hardening in the range Medium-high is seen with each headphone Hi-End. Even with the HE500 was present, but not only.
 
I owned:
AKG K1000
HE500 rewired (hardwiring)
AKG 501
AKG 240 MKII
Shure SRH840
Sennheiser HD650
 
Valves used 6080WB Bendix / Sylvania VT-229 (6SL7GT) - Full Music 6SL7
The complete system is signed.