[MunkyOne]

  @Munky,
 
can I ask you something about DAC and PC but only tangentially related to Little Dot i+.
1) If i upgrade from my current fiio e10k as a DAC, to a Modi or a ODAC or any affordable entry-level standalone DAC, will I hear a big, --or small, or even any-- difference at all?
2) If i for example, decide to sell my fiio e10k and plug the LD i+ and my amps directly to my PC. I know from PC forum that I should plug it to the Green Hole.
My question is... since headphone in itself is also plugged in into the Green Hole (for everybody that doesn't have an amp)... SO... plugging an amps there without a dedicated DAC, does that mean it's going to be double-amping?
 
3) Basically... How do I know if the Green Hole on my PC motherboard is a Headphone Out or a Line Out?
I have a Z87 average motherboard with 6 holes. pink-green-blue and three other hole colors below that that I can't remember.

Hi,
 
Here goes...
 
1.  All things being equal, you are likely to hear some differences; it is often very subjective.  However, as you go upwards in DAC price/performance, it is reasonable to expect as a minimum, more details in the music, perhaps with a more spacious sound, with better separation between instruments.  If at all possible I try to audition the items of interest to me, before I invest or, at least, search for well balanced reviews, here and elsewhere.  Dacs of similar abilities will differ in character, as with all components.  Generally though, most people will enjoy the improvements that Modi or ODAC et-al offer.  I have read good reports here from those who pair the Modi and Magni products; they seem quite satisfied.  I have no personal experience of either though.
 
I see (from your profile) that you already have some excellent headphones and a Magni amp.  Using your PC output directly would be a waste of these heaphones and amp, unless you put an amazing sound card in your PC.  I would suggest that with your headphone and amp inventory, you would benefit from a dedicated USB DAC.  The E10K is actually very good for it's price, but won't bring out the best in your amp and headphones.
 
2.  No.  It won't be double-amping, since the green (headphone-out) socket is only around line-level when the PC volume is at max.  I wouldn't recommend connecting your amp to the green (headphone-out) because you will likely see a drop in sound quality, compared to using a dedicated DAC connected to your USB port.  When using a DAC, you are effectively adding a superior external sound device via USB, which when correctly configured in windows, bypasses the inferior onboard audio processing.
 
3.  By convention, the green jack socket is the headphone out.  They often double as a line-out, but are not at a true (fixed c.2-volts) line-level e.g. as a CD player would be.  Since you are not using a dedicated comprehensive PC sound card, you don't have a real line-out.  I am not familiar with your motherboard (I use a laptop for most things).
 
Hope this helps.
 
 

 

[rovopio]

 
Hi,
 
Here goes...
 
1.  All things being equal, you are likely to hear some differences; it is often very subjective.  However, as you go upwards in DAC price/performance, it is reasonable to expect as a minimum, more details in the music, perhaps with a more spacious sound, with better separation between instruments.  If at all possible I try to audition the items of interest to me, before I invest or, at least, search for well balanced reviews, here and elsewhere.  Dacs of similar abilities will differ in character, as with all components.  Generally though, most people will enjoy the improvements that Modi or ODAC et-al offer.  I have read good reports here from those who pair the Modi and Magni products; they seem quite satisfied.  I have no personal experience of either though.
 
I see (from your profile) that you already have some excellent headphones and a Magni amp.  Using your PC output directly would be a waste of these heaphones and amp, unless you put an amazing sound card in your PC.  I would suggest that with your headphone and amp inventory, you would benefit from a dedicated USB DAC.  The E10K is actually very good for it's price, but won't bring out the best in your amp and headphones.
 
2.  No.  It won't be double-amping, since the green (headphone-out) socket is only around line-level when the PC volume is at max.  I wouldn't recommend connecting your amp to the green (headphone-out) because you will likely see a drop in sound quality, compared to using a dedicated DAC connected to your USB port.  When using a DAC, you are effectively adding a superior external sound device via USB, which when correctly configured in windows, bypasses the inferior onboard audio processing.
 
3.  By convention, the green jack socket is the headphone out.  They often double as a line-out, but are not at a true (fixed c.2-volts) line-level e.g. as a CD player would be.  Since you are not using a dedicated comprehensive PC sound card, you don't have a real line-out.  I am not familiar with your motherboard (I use a laptop for most things).
 
Hope this helps.
 
 

 
Due to Import Tax (40% + FedEx handling), I can't get a Modi 2 Uber without offloading my Fiio e10k.
Well I could but I don't want to eat instant noodles this month.
That's why I'm really wondering whether I should get a Modi 2 Uber or stay with the Fiio e10k (as a DAC). And if I sell my e10k, I might go 3 weeks without a DAC (waiting for Modi 2 Uber to arrived), hence that question.

---
I believe that with $500 DAC and ups, surely there will be perceivable sound difference (even if it's objectively, measurement / human hearing-wise shouldn't be).
But I'm really wondering how much of a difference a cheap sub-$150 DAC will affect my chain (that's already have a e10k DAC to begin with).
Because $150 is not $150 anymore when it's added by 40% tax heheh Plus the intangible value of my impatience on waiting for anything past 2 weeks.
I see my option around the price brackets are ODAC, the Modi, Modi 2 Uber (which connection-wise I don't need) but I'm too gullible and ate up Schiit's product description words of the 2 uber, what else.. a Audioquest Dragonfly maybe. HRT microstreamer. iFi iDAC (or whatever that's called), and really anything at the $150 price bracket.
 
By the way, I'm thinking of getting a Fiio X3 II to replace my Fiio X1.
Fiio X3 II has a cs4398 cirrus-logic dac, and I think overall would be better compared to it's brethren the el-cheapo-boss-performance fiio e10k dac. This is just conjecture out of my magic hat.
 
-----
TL;DR
Basically, some DAP now offers USB DAC capability. Will those DAP's (say a Fiio X3 II USB DAC section), will the Fiio x3 II USB DAC section be an upgrade from it's Fiio e10k brethren?
Even moreso, will it offer comparable performance to that of the entry-level dedicated DAC such as Modi, ODAC, or ifi iDAC? Two birds with one stone kinda thing...
Or will it still offer far less performance than a simple Modi?

 

[MunkyOne]

   
Due to Import Tax (40% + FedEx handling), I can't get a Modi 2 Uber without offloading my Fiio e10k.
Well I could but I don't want to eat instant noodles this month.
That's why I'm really wondering whether I should get a Modi 2 Uber or stay with the Fiio e10k (as a DAC). And if I sell my e10k, I might go 3 weeks without a DAC (waiting for Modi 2 Uber to arrived), hence that question.

---
I believe that with $500 DAC and ups, surely there will be perceivable sound difference (even if it's objectively, measurement / human hearing-wise shouldn't be).
But I'm really wondering how much of a difference a cheap sub-$150 DAC will affect my chain (that's already have a e10k DAC to begin with).
Because $150 is not $150 anymore when it's added by 40% tax heheh Plus the intangible value of my impatience on waiting for anything past 2 weeks.
I see my option around the price brackets are ODAC, the Modi, Modi 2 Uber (which connection-wise I don't need) but I'm too gullible and ate up Schiit's product description words of the 2 uber, what else.. a Audioquest Dragonfly maybe. HRT microstreamer. iFi iDAC (or whatever that's called), and really anything at the $150 price bracket.
 
By the way, I'm thinking of getting a Fiio X3 II to replace my Fiio X1.
Fiio X3 II has a cs4398 cirrus-logic dac, and I think overall would be better compared to it's brethren the el-cheapo-boss-performance fiio e10k dac. This is just conjecture out of my magic hat.
 
-----
TL;DR
Basically, some DAP now offers USB DAC capability. Will those DAP's (say a Fiio X3 II USB DAC section), will the Fiio x3 II USB DAC section be an upgrade from it's Fiio e10k brethren?
Even moreso, will it offer comparable performance to that of the entry-level dedicated DAC such as Modi, ODAC, or ifi iDAC? Two birds with one stone kinda thing...
Or will it still offer far less performance than a simple Modi?

HI,
 
 
I think that you have reached an interesting conclusion.  Given the budget constraints etc. and the disinclination to eat noodles for a month (too painful), what you have suggested makes sense.  The FiiO x3 II.   I have the first gen X3, and used it extensively as a USB DAC feeding my LD1+ while I was building my main DAC.  It was very good in this configuration; I enjoyed my music without problems.  The gen2 X3 is better still by most accounts.  The Gen2 X3 will be a better DAC than your E10K, will have a better line-out signal, so will be a better partner for your LD1+ or Magni.   I cannot comment about comparisons with a Modi or ODAC as I have heard neither, but given your current setup, I feel sure that you will see some improvement.  I suspect that the new X3 will be fairly close in performance to the most 'entry level' DACs.  Also, unlike the E10k, the X3 uses a dedicated Thesycon driver, which should result in better performance in Windows.   Of course you will also have an exellent DAP for the same cost, that will drive all your headphones reasonably well.
 
If you are going to go down this route, I would suggest some tube and opamp rolling in the LD1+ to tune it well to your preferred sound.  For your Grados, I would recomend a tube with some warmth and smoothness.  

 

[rovopio]

 

 
Hiya...!
Can i ask you one last thing...?
 
Is there a specific way to handle the tubes when plugging them in and taking them out? 
Is it okay for me to touch them by hand? Or shouldn't I...?
So far I use tissue to take them on and off, but' it's quite slippery doing it that way...
If there is a proper way of handling tubes... I will do it.

 

[MunkyOne]

   
Hiya...!
Can i ask you one last thing...?
 
Is there a specific way to handle the tubes when plugging them in and taking them out? 
Is it okay for me to touch them by hand? Or shouldn't I...?
So far I use tissue to take them on and off, but' it's quite slippery doing it that way...
If there is a proper way of handling tubes... I will do it.

HI,
 
In general, they should be handled very carefuly..  To remove a tube, pull it straight upwards from it's socket.  Sometimes, if they are a little tight, a subtle side-to-side movement whille pulling will help.  Excessive side-to-side movement can damage the tube base, causing cracking around the pins.  Since some tubes get quite hot in operation, any dirt or oily substances on the tube glass can cause them to overheat, potentially reducung the service life, so clean, dry hands or a cloth is a good idea when handling. 
 
No need to worry too much about handling though; I have rarely heard of people breaking them, altough it does happen.  Some of the military-spec tubes can take some abuse, but I wouldn't care to test that.

 

[rovopio]

 
HI,
 
In general, they should be handled very carefuly..  To remove a tube, pull it straight upwards from it's socket.  Sometimes, if they are a little tight, a subtle side-to-side movement whille pulling will help.  Excessive side-to-side movement can damage the tube base, causing cracking around the pins.  Since some tubes get quite hot in operation, any dirt or oily substances on the tube glass can cause them to overheat, potentially reducung the service life, so clean, dry hands or a cloth is a good idea when handling. 
 
No need to worry too much about handling though; I have rarely heard of people breaking them, altough it does happen.  Some of the military-spec tubes can take some abuse, but I wouldn't care to test that.

 
How about pins that bend ever so slightly?
My 6hm5 arrived, and one of the pins are bent just a little bit. There are tolerance with the LD i+ tube holes though so it *eventually* managed to fit in snuggle-ish.
At first I was normally plug them in like I plugged the default China tubes but it wouldn't go in, i then inspect and saw 2 of the pins on one of the tube is so slightly bent.
 
Then I plug it in again slowly and do side-to-side while plugging them in, and now it's fine.
 
So... on the question above, is it alright, electrically speaking, or safety-wise speaking, that a few of the tubes pins are not 100% straight and a little bent?
TL;DR, I don't want a house fire is all.

 

[MunkyOne]

   
How about pins that bend ever so slightly?
My 6hm5 arrived, and one of the pins are bent just a little bit. There are tolerance with the LD i+ tube holes though so it *eventually* managed to fit in snuggle-ish.
At first I was normally plug them in like I plugged the default China tubes but it wouldn't go in, i then inspect and saw 2 of the pins on one of the tube is so slightly bent.
 
Then I plug it in again slowly and do side-to-side while plugging them in, and now it's fine.
 
So... on the question above, is it alright, electrically speaking, or safety-wise speaking, that a few of the tubes pins are not 100% straight and a little bent?
TL;DR, I don't want a house fire is all.

I wouldn't worry too much; I don't think anyone is at risk of starting a fire.   When you consider that these tubes were / are made in numerous factories around the world, there are bound to be small engineering differences.  The pins are sometimes prone to bending in packaging / transit / handling etc. so some very slight bending or misalighnment is common. The universal tube sockets are easily able to accommodate these variances, so it's not a problem in reality.  Just carefully insert the tube into it's socket and all should be well.
 
If you encounter a very bent pin, try to straighten it by gripping the pin with flat pliers along it's entire length and squeezing the pin between the pliers surfaces.   Never try to straighten the pin by articulating it from the pin base, as you will risk either breaking the pin or cracking the glass at the base. 
 
Slightly bent or misaligned pins are not considered to present an electrical safety risk; the currents  involved are too low for arcing to occur  The worst case scenario would be poor / intermittent sound due to poor surface contact.
 
As you begin tube rolling, you will soon get used to the handling.  In reality it is no more of a concern than changing a lightbulb.

 

[tkoreaper]

So I recently purchased the MUSES 02 opamp after seeing it mentioned many times. It arrived today and I immediately put it in. First thing I noticed was the clarity... sound is completely different from stock. Sound is very tight, but it's kind of tinny sounding... like I lost a lot of bass or something. Can anyone recommend some tubes to try with this? I'm currently using some NOS milspec Mullards CV4015 and rocking the DT 990 Pro 250 OHM.

 

[iamxLn]

Mullard m8100 cv4010 should help you out in the bass department and supposed to be pretty warm as well. Could also try the yugo tubes everyone here mentions, honestly they look pretty sweet when they're glowing. 
 
Also try turning up the gain on the amp to the high setting before spending more money on tubes. If you're ordering on ebay it wouldn't hurt to just throw a 2 dollar lm4562 in the cart, it works well for me on the beyer 880 pro 250s. I never spent the money on the muses, but for 2 dollars it's worth a gamble on your end. I listen to some bass heavy electro and even on the dt880 I'm satisfied in the bass department. It hits pretty deep on mad dog pros too. 
 
You know truthfully though, the sound you're describing with tight bass and clarity is a traditional audiophile sound - those 990s can be bright and tinny. Maybe it's just a bad match or not the right op amp for you. 
 
I'm by no means an expert, but we have similar gear and I know what worked for me. I'm not a bass head, but do like some thump when called for. 

 

[tkoreaper]

After closer inspection I found the cause to be my soundcard. I have a Xonar Essence STX and it's been a while since I switched from the heaphone jack to the RCA connections. I made the switch because I get feedback sometimes while gaming. I'm looking into a different opamp configuration for my card which should hopefully fix the lack of bass.

 

[MunkyOne]

  So I recently purchased the MUSES 02 opamp after seeing it mentioned many times. It arrived today and I immediately put it in. First thing I noticed was the clarity... sound is completely different from stock. Sound is very tight, but it's kind of tinny sounding... like I lost a lot of bass or something. Can anyone recommend some tubes to try with this? I'm currently using some NOS milspec Mullards CV4015 and rocking the DT 990 Pro 250 OHM.

HI,
 
Give it a while, as most electronic components require at least a little time to settle to their stable values.   I did not find the MUSES02 to be tinny at all, even from first use.   However, it is all about perception.  Often, with tightness, comes the perception of less bass, since it more controlled, not boomy or dominant.  If you prefer the effect of less controlled bass, then perhaps one of the warmer Burr-Brown op-amps may work for you.
 
As for tubes, I would say the Mullard M8161 (CV4015) are a good choice, being a pretty good all rounder.  Even more solid bass can be heard in the Voskhod 6ZHP-EV, although to my ears, these are not quite as smooth and refined as the mullards.  Again, if exaggerated bass is important to you, then the Voskhods may be worth a try.
 
Some of the tube descriptions here may help your choices.

 

[bluewrx1025]

Hey everyone, a little off topic but I just recently bought my Little Dot I+ secondhand with a couple screws missing. I found the correct screws on eBay and just wanted to post the link in case anyone has some stripped out or missing screws they're looking to replace.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291218784975?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[Luckbad]

Has anyone tried this with the Fostex TH600/TH900? I was thinking of getting a Mk3 or Mk4, but Little Dot advised against it since they are OTL amps. Basically, the options are the I+, 6+, or 9, the latter two of which are way too expensive.

 

[gibosi]

I have never head either of these Fostex headphones, but agree with Little Dot's recommendation. An impedance of 25 ohms is far too low for an OTL. However, in terms of impedance, either of these Fostex will match up very nicely with the LD 1+. And further, with rollable op amps and vacuum tubes, you should be able to find a configuration that pleases your ears.
 
Cheers

 

[Luckbad]

  I have never head either of these Fostex headphones, but agree with Little Dot's recommendation. An impedance of 25 ohms is far too low for an OTL. However, in terms of impedance, either of these Fostex will match up very nicely with the LD 1+. And further, with rollable op amps and vacuum tubes, you should be able to find a configuration that pleases your ears.
 
Cheers

 
Any recommendations for warm, bass-heavy (especially sub-bass) configs? I'm a basshead and love me some rumbling sub-bass.