[Slater]

The ZSN has titanium film dynamic drivers, while the C10 has a new type of high definition low distortion dynamic drivers. They both perform well! The only difference I can hear is slightly lower controlled sub-bass coming from the C10 which makes them sound very sweet, while, in the other hand, the ZSN has slightly better detailed bass/upper bass due to the titanium film drivers. The BA armatures on the C10 corrects the upper frequency brightness, which gives better control to a non-harsh and sibilant environment. This is why I scored the C10 a perfect 10 and the ZSN a 9.9. But, personally they are a no brainer and keepers for me!

-Clear

So CCA doesn’t say what type of diaphragm is used, but they do say the C10 DD has a 30% more powerful magnet.

From my own magnet modding experience, as well as the superior performance we see with super high Tesla drivers in IEMs like the IT01, I can attest that this is a significant contributor to the C10’s excellent low end presentation.

 

[1clearhead]

So CCA doesn’t say what type of diaphragm is used, but they do say the C10 DD has a 30% more powerful magnet.

From my own magnet modding experience, as well as the superior performance we see with super high Tesla drivers in IEMs like the IT01, I can attest that this is a significant contributor to the C10’s excellent low end presentation.

Yup!...the 30% more powerful magnet makes for better control and sweeter lower sub-bass.

 

[BadReligionPunk]

My C10's left China 2 days ago. They cant get here fast enough. I am hopeful that I am not setting myself up for disappointment.

 

[Slater]

My C10's left China 2 days ago. They cant get here fast enough. I am hopeful that I am not setting myself up for disappointment.

Just set your expectations low (or at a realistic level). Then you won’t be disappointed.

From most reports so far, it seems the C10 is slightly/barely better than the ZSN.

Therefore, if you’re happy with the ZSN, then you’ll be happy with the C10. If you feel like the ZSN is a steaming pile of poo, then you’re probably gonna be disappointed.

 

[sino8r]

Yes, this is very disappointing.

ZSR or ES4 DD would have been good too.

You can always swap DD. It will be even easier to access the DD now that the crossover board is separate instead of being attached to the driver.

I'll give it a shot. I'll admit, I've never replaced an iem speaker before. What type of adhesive do you use? Is it silicone or specialty glue? I have some ZSNs I'm willing to dissect. I've switched 2 pins to mmcx connections, have modded some iems shells plus have soldered all my life.

 

[Slater]

I'll give it a shot. I'll admit, I've never replaced an iem speaker before. What type of adhesive do you use? Is it silicone or specialty glue? I have some ZSNs I'm willing to dissect. I've switched 2 pins to mmcx connections, have modded some iems shells plus have soldered all my life.

For IEMs I like E8000 from Aliexpress. It has a needle-like applicator tip that is easy to control.

There’s many other adhesives that would work as well, such as 2 part epoxy applied with a toothpick. There’s also this stuff called “Aleene’s Tack It Over and Over” that I use on full size headphone drivers. It is removable.

The key is sealing the driver all the way around. There can’t be any gaps, no matter how small.

Also, you do NOT want to use superglue or any cyano acrylate type glues though. The whitish fumes given off as it cures will ruin drivers

 

[sino8r]

For IEMs I like E8000 from Aliexpress. It has a needle-like applicator tip that is easy to control.

There’s many other adhesives that would work as well, such as 2 part epoxy applied with a toothpick. There’s also this stuff called notack or something similar that I use on full size headphone drivers. It is removable.

The key is sealing the driver all the way around. There can’t be any gaps, no matter how small.

Also, you do NOT want to use superglue or any cyano acrylate type glues though. The whitish fumes given off as it cures will ruin drivers

Thanks for the tips. I did think the bass was a little less hard hitting than the ZSN but thought it was my imagination. It still beats the AS10/BS10 in that aspect though. I got a decent holiday bonus so I don't mind spending a few bucks. I'll have to get the notack. I've got plenty of epoxies but that seems really risky with a dynamic lol! What size penta bit was the weird ZSN? I recall that you ordered one...

 

[PhonoPhi]

I'll give it a shot. I'll admit, I've never replaced an iem speaker before. What type of adhesive do you use? Is it silicone or specialty glue? I have some ZSNs I'm willing to dissect. I've switched 2 pins to mmcx connections, have modded some iems shells plus have soldered all my life.

Brave endeavor!
From my limited experience with similar projects (not IEMs), a hot glue (polyethylene copolymer sticks for glue guns) may work well, at least for prototyping. It allows for multiple attempts

 

[Slater]

Thanks for the tips. I did think the bass was a little less hard hitting than the ZSN but thought it was my imagination. It still beats the AS10/BS10 in that aspect though. I got a decent holiday bonus so I don't mind spending a few bucks. I'll have to get the notack. I've got plenty of epoxies but that seems really risky with a dynamic lol! What size penta bit was the weird ZSN? I recall that you ordered one...

BTW the exact name of the glue is called “Aleene’s Tack It Over and Over”.

The pentabit comes in 2 sizes - 1.2 and 0.8. The one you want to open the ZSN shell is the 0.8 size.

 

[sino8r]

BTW the exact name of the glue is called “Aleene’s Tack It Over and Over”.

The pentabit comes in 2 sizes - 1.2 and 0.8. The one you want to open the ZSN shell is the 0.8 size.

Sounds great! Are we sure it's the same size dynamic? If the magnet is thicker, I might run into trouble. Might be able to work with 1 or 2 mm difference though. Seems to be room for that

 

[trollin863]

Hey I was thinking of trying the zs3e or the zsr as was previously recommended...Does the zs3e and zsr use the same upgrade cable as my original zs3? Believe it’s 0.75mm. I also just got the trn bt20 0.75 Bluetooth upgrade cable so looking for more options besides the original zs3 to use it with.

Also how much better is the zs3e than the zs3? Should I just buy another pair of the zs3s and try that foam mod from Slater?

Another model I was considering was the zs6 which I know for sure uses the 0.75mm cable...

I actually found a 0.78mm kz upgrade cable in my bedroom that I bought last year but I’m confused as to which models that would work for.

The 0.75mm is the most common one right for the zs3, zs5 and zs6? I’m genuinely curious if I bought the zsrs or the zs3e if the 0.75mm Bluetooth cable would work as this cable was relatively expensive and would like to be able to use it for more than just the OG zs3 though I really like them...

I apologize for such elementary level type questions but just wanna confirm cable compatibility before deciding on my next KZs!!!

 

[Slater]

Sounds great! Are we sure it's the same size dynamic? If the magnet is thicker, I might run into trouble. Might be able to work with 1 or 2 mm difference though. Seems to be room for that

The driver is 10mm according to KZ.

But I don’t know the thickness or can’t guarantee it will fit, since I haven’t done it myself.

I’ll bet it will fit fine though. The thickness difference is probably only a mm or 2. And they still have to leave some excess room inside the shell for the wiring and crossover whatnot.

 

[rayliam80]

Hey I was thinking of trying the zs3e or the zsr as was previously recommended...Does the zs3e and zsr use the same upgrade cable as my original zs3? Believe it’s 0.75mm. I also just got the trn bt20 0.75 Bluetooth upgrade cable so looking for more options besides the original zs3 to use it with.

Also how much better is the zs3e than the zs3? Should I just buy another pair of the zs3s and try that foam mod from Slater?

Another model I was considering was the zs6 which I know for sure uses the 0.75mm cable...

I actually found a 0.78mm kz upgrade cable in my bedroom that I bought last year but I’m confused as to which models that would work for.

The 0.75mm is the most common one right for the zs3, zs5 and zs6? I’m genuinely curious if I bought the zsrs or the zs3e if the 0.75mm Bluetooth cable would work as this cable was relatively expensive and would like to be able to use it for more than just the OG zs3 though I really like them...

I apologize for such elementary level type questions but just wanna confirm cable compatibility before deciding on my next KZs!!!

Technically the 0.78mm cables work with KZs which are mostly 0.75mm pin slots but this usually causes the pin slot to be stretched. Going back to a 0.75mm cable will feel looser or may not hold anymore. In my personal preference, if I put a 0.78mm cable on a KZ then it stays assigned to it.

 

[trollin863]

Great, so just to clarify the zsrs and zs3es have a 0.75mm pin slot? I’m thinking of buying both of these and wanna know for future reference as I have a nice 0.75mm Bluetooth cable I’d like to use with them...

Thanks

 

[Slater]

Great, so just to clarify the zsrs and zs3es have a 0.75mm pin slot? I’m thinking of buying both of these and wanna know for future reference as I have a nice 0.75mm Bluetooth cable I’d like to use with them...

Thanks

The only KZs that have ever used 0.78mm were a few of the early satin (not glossy) ZS3. Every other KZ uses 0.75mm.