Knowledge Zenith (KZ) impressions thread
Feb 24, 2018 at 3:21 PM Post #28,516 of 66,005
A couple of people have asked me about the custom tuning filters I made for the ZS6. I figured I would share the details with everyone, as they are easy and inexpensive to make (<$0.01 each).

I will be continuing to test additional filters, as I had initially only made a few different filters.

My plan is to test more filters made using additional types of material that I didn't test initially - additional desiccate bags, disposable paper coffee filters, stainless nozzle filters, nylon nozzle filters, etc.

As evidenced by the wide variety of BA tuning filters available commercially, it will be possible to target very specific frequencies depending on filter material. At the time I did my testing, my primary goal was to increase sub bass (as an alternative to the Russian methods), not on tuning the BA output.

I feel there are still hidden improvements to be had with the tuning filters, unlocking the ZS6's true potential. Since so many of us have the ZS6 v1 (vs the better tuned ZS6 v2), I think this would be very beneficial to the HF community.

I would greatly appreciate anyone's assistance in getting an IEM testing rig set up (ARTA or otherwise), even if crude and uncompensated. If you can help, please PM me.


Required materials:
  • M2 stainless steel washers (details here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/kno...essions-thread.698148/page-1847#post-14013143)
  • very sharp/small bladed scissors, such as those used for sewing, hair cutting, etc
  • tweezers
  • disposable food plate
  • magnifying glass (optional, as the washers and filter materials you'll be working with are ridiculously small)
  • fine sewing needle, sewing pin, safety pin, or "T" pin
  • super glue (GEL style, not regular liquid type)
  • filter materials
    • tea bags
    • disposable paper coffee filters
    • desiccant bags
    • 3.7mm stainless nozzle filters (universal f/Aliexpress)
    • 3.7mm nylon nozzle filters (removed f/other IEMs, ie KZ red filters on ZS3, EDR, EDSE, etc)
Steps:

1. On your disposable food plate, lay out a few washers. This is your working surface. Keep everything on the plate, as this will help keep all of the ridiculously tiny materials organized and contained.

2. Attach your filter material
  • If you are using a filter material with adhesive pre-applied (such as stainless or nylon nozzle filters):
    • Simply peel and stick them to the washer using tweezers (make sure to center the filter on the washer).
    • Press with your finger to adhere the nozzle filter fully.
    • Proceed to step 3.
  • If you are using a filter material without pre-applied adhesive (such as coffee filter, tea bag, or desiccant bag):
    • Use your scissors to cut a perfect square slightly SMALLER than the OD of washer (ie the washer is 5mm OD, so cut the square around 4.5mm)
    • Now trim the corners of the square off at 45 degrees, so you end up with a symmetrical 4.5mm octagon. If it ends up as a 'lopsided' octagon, start over until you get it right. The material is trivial - a single tea bag can make probably 500 cut squares.
    • Take your GEL super glue and squirt and tiny blob at the edge of the paper plate, out of the way of your working area (ie at the top edge, on the rim of the plate, etc). It only needs to be the 1/4 the size of a single grain of rice (and even that is will be too much).
    • Using your tweezers, center your octagon filter on the washer as best as you can (this is easier said than done, as you'll see in the photo below).
    • Using the sharp edge of your fine sewing needle, sewing pin, safety pin, or "T" pin, dip it into the super glue GEL and apply a THIN smear to the 12 o'clock position of the filter. The idea is to get half of the smear of glue on the edge of the filter, and half of the smear of glue on the bare washer. Don't use too much glue, or it will soak/wick to the center of the filter where the sound travels through. LESS IS BETTER!!
    • Repeat this procedure at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.
    • Let the glue fully dry.
    • Proceed to step 3.
3. Repeat the procedure to make a 2nd filter.

4. Congratulations, you have now made a pair of filters.

5. Repeat the entire process using an alternate filter material if you wish.

6. To ATTACH the filters to the nozzle of the ZS6, follow the procedure outlined in Mod #2 at the following link: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/kno...essions-thread.698148/page-1847#post-14013143


Photos of the completed filters.

A completed tea bag filter, showing the BACK side of the filter with the tea bag attached per Step 2 above. See how the tea bag was cut slightly SMALLER than the washer OD? This gives the thin smears of glue an opportunity to stick to both the edge of the filter material and some of the washer in the 12,3,6,9 o'clock positions (seen best in the photo at the 6 o'clock position):



The FRONT of a completed tea bag filter, held up to the light so you can see how the sound will filter through:



The FRONT of a completed stainless mesh filter, showing how the stainless filter looks from the FRONT:



The FRONT of a completed stainless mesh filter, held up to the light so you can see how the sound will filter through:



Let me know if you have any questions.

Which one is your favorite so far? Would I get the best sub bass with just the washer itself or would a filter in the middle make it better?
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 3:37 PM Post #28,517 of 66,005
Cable Salad
Tested two KZ cables with the ZSR. The ones designed for the ZST have the same connectors as the stock cable. Now I am really confused...both "upgrades" make the sound clearer/harsher or simply louder but certainly different. But the sound with the original cables is more subtle - which one is better I don't know. And whether there is a difference between the two upgrade cables, I don't know either.

I am confused.

UPDATE: did the same with the KZ ES3: the ZST cable makes things louder with increased mid bass punching against my eardrums. The ZS3/5 cable makes things much quieter and removes bass and 3-dimensionality (same with the second ZS3/5 cable). Ran a channel identification test...was fine.



Perhaps what you are experiencing is found in this excerpt from my "KZ Upgrade Cable" review when I tested the stock cable and the upgrade cable simultaneously.

How the test was done.

Source: Fiio X3i
Splitter: ADTRIP 3.5mm Male to 2 Female Audio Y Splitter Cable
In-Ear Monitor: Knowledge Zenith ZS3 (glossy)
Test tracks listed below.

The only proper way to test for differences in sound was to:
1) connect the ADTRIP splitter to the Fiio X3i
2) connect the stock cable to one 3.5mm socket of the splitter
3) connect the upgrade cable to the second 3.5mm socket of the splitter

This would make absolutely sure that the volume level is matched perfectly so there would be no hidden variants in the output from the source.

Then:
4) connect the right lead of the stock cable to the ZS3 right earpiece.
5) connect the left lead of the upgrade cable to the ZS3 left earpiece.
6) insert IEMs in ear
7) load the test tracks and press play

In actuality, I first listened to the ZS3 with just the stock cable for approximately 30 minutes to familiarize myself with evenly (left/right) balanced sound. After 30 minutes I proceeded with steps 4 through 7.

What I immediately noticed was that there was a slight imbalance in the sound. The sound was slightly off kilter. It wasn't by a huge amount but it was enough to make me check to see if the headphone jack was securely connected. After going back and forth swapping cables (stock & upgraded) for twenty minutes I finally figured out why the sound was not balanced and the answer is, in part, explained in the previous section on eartips.

The upgraded cable side had a nominal drop (perhaps 5%+/-) in sub-bass while the rest of the frequency range remained in tact. A 5%+/- drop in sub-bass is not reason enough to spend more money for a cable, but that 5%+/- drop in the very narrow band (20 - 50hz) is not the whole story. The rest of the story is how the change in sub-bass effects the other frequencies trapped in the sealed ear canal.

What do I mean?

Because there is less sub-bass in my ear canals the decrease in rumbling has left more room for the mids and highs to be heard (or fill the space). This is really basic physics of cause and effect. The driver itself is only outputting 5% less sub-bass, but the chamber the audio enters (your ear canal) has a finite amount of space to be filled with sound. The best picture I can paint for you is this. We have all heard the boom of a subwoofer when a car drives by (that is outfitted with subwoofers). When it drives by the frequency that stands out the most is the sub-bass. You may hear the mids and highs but more often than not the most distinctive thing you hear is the sub-bass. Sub-bass frequencies can dominate other frequencies to one degree or another based on its volume level in relation to other frequencies. In fact I'm sure most of you have heard those same frequencies roll across the landscape when lightning strikes. It's called "rolling thunder" because it fills the air and just carries until it dissipates. A less powerful sub-bass allows other frequencies (in your ear canal) to fill that same space. There is no space in the ear that remains void. The entire chamber will fill with sound and the sub-bass when present will not be supplanted or forced into submission. However, it has become quite clear to me that LESS sub-bass in the chamber makes room in the chamber for other frequencies trapped in that chamber to be heard.

So, to summarize my findings, while the driver connected to the upgraded cable is delivering the same exact frequencies, except sub-bass, you will hear the drop in the sub-bass and as a result the other frequencies will come slightly forward and will be heard more clearly.

Years ago, I worked in a fine white tablecloth restaurant. Every day we had specials that were prepared with various herbs and spices (tarragon, cumin, rosemary, thyme, etc.) and after several weeks I could pick out every ingredient in a dish (at my restaurant or any other restaurant I frequented). Likewise my palette became equally adept when tasting wine varietals. I think it is no different here (for ears). How many times have you read a review where the reviewer states that his Panasonic RP-HJE120 sounds as good as.....say a Sony XB90EX or Klipsch X10. That's just pure rubbish, but the poor guy just can't tell the difference.

If I were you, I'd be saying "sounds like snake oil to me", but if I hadn't done this experiment for myself I wouldn't have believed it. If you have an AMPLIFIED SOURCE then please pick up a splitter ($5) and do this experiment. I say use an amplified source because two IEMs will draw more power from your source and a non-amplified or power-efficient source will likely be lacking in sub-bass when two IEMs are drawing power. Remember, the change in sub-bass is what made other frequencies come slightly to the foreground. It's a ridiculously inexpensive way to put to bed any disagreements of whether or not cables can make a difference. When YOU hear the imbalance you'll know it's not a placebo effect.

If you use IEMs regularly and/or even have several pairs with different sound signatures then the change that I am discussing will not be lost on your ears. You will hear it. The sub-bass will nominally decrease and the mids and highs will nominally come forward giving a nominal increase in clarity. Keep in mind that an acceptable sound signature will not vary greatly from a neutral sound signature. Anything other than SLIGHT EQ ADJUSTMENTS (+/-) can produce awful results (boomy bass, shouty mids or sibilant highs), so these changes in sound I am speaking of are just further fine tuning.

*** Update ***
I would be remiss if I fail to mention that the change I was hearing could be the result of the upgrade cable dropping the volume of the earpiece attached to it. That wouldn't explain the nominal drop in sub-bass, though. I did not use a meter to confirm a uniform sound level. Just used my ears.

If you wish to FINE TUNE your ZS3 to facilitate slightly more mids/highs and slightly less bass then pick up these cables.

If you want to ACCESSORIZE your ZS3 with a better looking cable then pick up these cables.

If you want a microphone-free cable, then pick up these cables.

Otherwise, you should be fine with stock cables.

Don't forget to try different eartips in conjunction with the cables to fine tune your IEM's final audio delivery.

Test tracks were the following:

Ella Fitzgerald & Louis Armstrong - "Gee Baby, Ain't I Good To You"
Ella Fitzgerald & Louis Armstrong - "Learnin' The Blues"
Diana Krall - "Maybe, You'll BeThere"
Diana Krall - "Baby, All The Time"
Van Halen - "Hot For Teacher"
Metallica - "Nothing Else Matters"
Dream Theater - "Pull Me Under"
Tourniquet - "The Hand Trember"
Shania Twain - "No one needs to know"
Tim McGraw - "She Was Mine For A Little While"
Tears for Fears - "Woman In Chains"
Morcheeba - "Blindfold"
Massive Attack - "Teardrop"
Portishead - "Roads"
Beth Orton - "Central Reservation"
Beth Orton - "Daybreaker"
Schiller - "Under My Skin"
Jackson 5 - "I Want You Back"
Secession - "Magician (Pecky Plus Mix)"
The Church - "Under The Milky Way"
Otello - "Masterworks Collection: Rabbit Hole"
Othello - "Masterworks Collection: BlowBack"
Otello - "Masterworks Collection: Downtime"
Antonio Vivaldi - "L'Estro Armonico" Violin Concerti
Antonio Vivaldi - Cello Suites (Ophelie Gaillard)
71gwb5gxEOL.jpg


Hope this was helpful.
 
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Feb 24, 2018 at 4:03 PM Post #28,518 of 66,005
Can't speak to Tennmak's MMCX connector quality as I had only owned mine for a few weeks. You're absolutely right about warm sound. Very dark and veiled sounding headphone. I've listened to mine with foam tips and at least on my copy the sound stage was very good actually. Also very comfortable fit.

Someone above mentioned KZ QA lacking and wiring things out of phase. I am now convinced that the ES3 I was listening to definitely had one of the drivers out of phase. Luckily my ZSR and ZS6 appear to be wired correctly.

I was using the Tennmak Pro's for a few weeks as my daily driver and enjoyed them. Their comfort was top notch. They did indeed have a dark sound, but like everything you get used to it.
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 4:14 PM Post #28,519 of 66,005
Which one is your favorite so far? Would I get the best sub bass with just the washer itself or would a filter in the middle make it better?

I've only tested a few filters so far (the ones that are italicized).


ZS6 nozzle (w/stock stainless "cheese grater" screen) PLUS
  • Black nylon filter (from EMI CI-880)
  • Micropore tape
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)

ZS6 nozzle (w/generic stainless mesh screen) PLUS
  • Black nylon filter (from EMI CI-880)
  • Micropore tape
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)
OPEN ZS6 nozzle (NO nozzle mesh) PLUS
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)
As you can see, there's a significant amount of testing combinations, and a lot to remember and keep track of. It will be a lot more efficient and ultimately reliable to have a FR testing rig.
 
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Feb 24, 2018 at 4:36 PM Post #28,520 of 66,005
Sorry, I don't understand a word.
1. Which coloured plastic rings? Everything is white.
2. Between the poles of the TRRS jack?
3. How are white plastic rings and impedance related?


I think I figured it out:
1. There are two connector type plugs, a kinked/curved one (ZST, ES3) and a straight one (ZS3/5/6).
2. The ZS3/5/6 jack is a bit recessed so that the ZST type plug does not fit well.
3. When replacing stock cables with "upgrades" of the same plug type, things work.
4. The upgrade cables have a slightly lower impedance, making the earphones easier to drive.
5. This is not worse than the stock cable, just different.
6. The sound is probably not any worse with the upgrade cable.
7. My mistake was using the stock cable as reference for the right impedance. There is not such a reference as none of the two impedances is right or wrong.

I meant to type TRS plug, not TRRS.

Basically, look at the 3.5mm plug (ie the TRS plug).

The original 'silver upgrade cable' used WHITE plastic "stripes" between the T and R and S poles (ie the gold plated metal poles aka Left Right Gnd). Later revisions used COLORS instead of white.

Like this:

IMG-1193 - Edited.jpg
IMG-1188 - Edited.jpg

Anyways, @hakuzen did impedance testing on pretty much every stock and upgrade cable KZ makes. Multiple revisions of the silver upgrade cables, the different COLORED cables (grey, orange, gold), the multi-braided cables, etc. He even tested the silver TRN cable.

He's the resident expert on the subject.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/kno...essions-thread.698148/page-1785#post-13964853

Spoiler alert - the highest impedance cable was the stock ZST cable. The lowest was the thin 'original style' silver upgrade cable with BLACK rings (photo below):

 
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Feb 24, 2018 at 6:51 PM Post #28,522 of 66,005
i know i'm a bit late to the party but these ZS5's are bluddy amazing....its like technicolour is being poured into my ears. all my DAPs sound supercalifragilisticexpealidocious with these.
I am listening to my ZS6s right now and know exactly what you mean. These headphones have no right sounding this good for less than $50. Maybe it's crazy talk but, slap a Shure, Campfire, Etymotic Research sticker on these and they would be right at home with a $300-$400 price tag.
 
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Feb 24, 2018 at 8:55 PM Post #28,523 of 66,005
@Slater @mbwilson111

Slater mentioned UIISII cm5 earlier and i searched for the earlier mentions and It was clear that they are a safe bet. For the 11$ that i found them, even more. Some light pupped in my Head that my parents was in need to order some slicer on Amazon and i used my Power of Conviction to convince them to order soon. And voi lá! I got the Uiisii for 11$ with Free shipping to the warehouse in US and will redirect them together with the other thing that was ordered with almost zero increase of the shipping price to brazil. Looks like a Deal.

Don't know when Will receive them but i Will give my impressions in a appropriated thread. The feedback of the community on these iem's are Very good. Let's see the Power of the single dynamic. The soundstage caught my attention.
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 9:00 PM Post #28,524 of 66,005
I can't tell the COLOR of the plastic rings between the poles of the TRRS jack in the TOP photo. It's obscured by the wire.

That could explain the difference in sound. It boils down to impedance.

The BOTTOM wire has the non-white rings. If the top cable has white plastic rings between the poles of the TRRS jack, then it has higher impedance vs the bottom wire, which would explain the difference.

I gotta ask...

Does the additional 0.3 Ohms really make a difference?
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 9:09 PM Post #28,526 of 66,005
I've moved on from the ZST / ZS5 / ZS6 now, but will watch with interest as to what KZ gets up to in the coming months :)
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 9:13 PM Post #28,527 of 66,005
I meant to type TRS plug, not TRRS.

Basically, look at the 3.5mm plug (ie the TRS plug).

The original 'silver upgrade cable' used WHITE plastic "stripes" between the T and R and S poles (ie the gold plated metal poles aka Left Right Gnd). Later revisions used COLORS instead of white.

Like this:




Anyways, @hakuzen did impedance testing on pretty much every stock and upgrade cable KZ makes. Multiple revisions of the silver upgrade cables, the different COLORED cables (grey, orange, gold), the multi-braided cables, etc. He even tested the silver TRN cable.

He's the resident expert on the subject.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/kno...essions-thread.698148/page-1785#post-13964853

Spoiler alert - the highest impedance cable was the stock ZST cable. The lowest was the thin 'original style' silver upgrade cable with BLACK rings (photo below):

Yep, my silver cables of both types (ZST and ZS3/5/6/) have black rings and a lower impedance than the respective stock cables with mic. Fits. Thanks!

Here my cables:
DC resistance of KZ cables (read by DMMs), in ohms (left, right, and ground).

zst/es3/zsr type:
(31) upgrade kz plated (4cords,w/transp,black rings). 0.35/36/40 0.35/37/39 0.35/37/40
(08) kz zsr stock mic..........................................................0.64 0.64 0.88

zs3/5/6 type:
(30) upgrade kz zs3/5/6 plated (4cords).........................0.67/70 0.67/70 0.67/70
(04) kz zs5 stock................................................................0.66 0.63 0.38
 
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Feb 24, 2018 at 9:14 PM Post #28,528 of 66,005
If they could dual port the nozzle for better more constrained bass flow, flatten the backside of the ZS6 (or lengthen the nozzle) just a tiny bit for a better fit and dampen some of the highs without loosing too much detail and release a ZS7.. I'd be all over it.
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 9:32 PM Post #28,529 of 66,005
Perhaps what you are experiencing is found in this excerpt from my "KZ Upgrade Cable" review when I tested the stock cable and the upgrade cable simultaneously.




Hope this was helpful.
Great work! Thanks! Whenever I rip one cable out and add the other, I have forgotten the previous sound signature to some extent. But the point is that there are obvious differences between cables.

I wonder whether the remote is the culprit as it is somewhat i in the way of the flowing electrons. No expensive cable has a remote or mic.
 
Feb 24, 2018 at 10:53 PM Post #28,530 of 66,005
I've only tested a few filters so far (the ones that are italicized).


ZS6 nozzle (w/stock stainless "cheese grater" screen) PLUS
  • Black nylon filter (from EMI CI-880)
  • Micropore tape
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)

ZS6 nozzle (w/generic stainless mesh screen) PLUS
  • Black nylon filter (from EMI CI-880)
  • Micropore tape
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)
OPEN ZS6 nozzle (NO nozzle mesh) PLUS
  • Washer (open with no filter)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type A)
  • Washer (w/tea bag filter type B)
  • Washer (w/disposable coffee filter)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type A - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/permanent brass mesh coffee filter type B - I'll have to look up the micron #)
  • Washer (w/KZ red nylon filter)
  • Washer (w/generic stainless mesh screen filter)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type A)
  • Washer (w/desiccant filter type B)
  • Washer (w/cotton headphone driver tuning paper)
  • Washer (w/dryer sheet)
  • Washer (w/micropore tape)
As you can see, there's a significant amount of testing combinations, and a lot to remember and keep track of. It will be a lot more efficient and ultimately reliable to have a FR testing rig.

What color washer gives me the tightest & fastest bass?
 

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