[Epoch]

I ordered mine from Long & McQuade and they arrived in a couple days to the store.

 

[NapalmK]

Quote:

FWIW, my T50s are still stock and my previous review is in relation to the stock unit, and I still prefer the stock unit over the current AKG flagship and the former HD650 flagship.  Modifications are a way to bring up the performance of the T50 up to the level not disimilar to the current crop of flagships.  These are my subejective opinions so do take with a grain of salt.

A/B'ing these to my K701s I'd have to agree with your impressions. The T50s really sound more organic and natural. The only thing I find myself longing for is a bigger soundstage. I'm really questioning if I should keep all these can as the T50s are most certainly performing above their pay grade.
 
@leeperry: Did you ever open up the top vents of the T50s?

 

[leeperry]

 

 
@leeperry: Did you ever open up the top vents of the T50s?

Can't say that I have, no....the SS is already amazing and I'd rather not lower the isolation even further. Everything's perfect as is to my ears.
 
BTW, a friend of mine just sent me a patch of that foam...I'll be sure to give it a shot

 

[dyna10x]

Hi spwild
where did you buy your t50 from? It seems b&h will ship to Australia. Cheapest method is $47 so it will cost $120 approx all up. Do you you know of any cheaper options to buy them from Australia?

 

[Damnegy]

Hey there, 
 
Just passing by telling I'm definitely happy with these Even stock they impressed me ! Though lacking a bit bass IMO... So I finally opened them, removed the felt on the vents and put in some blutack. Things have indeed been better, a bit more soundstage, some clearer bass (oO?), and maybe more natural vocals (though on some songs, I find it a bit recessed compared to piano oO)... Really strange things here. I do not have much material to try out, but I'm experimenting Going for some felt tomorrow !
 
(I'll try to find my exercise about the speed of the charges, but found these on Wikipedia (of course, many parameters influence the speed, but it is just for an image of circuitry) : 
Electric Current : Electric currents in solids typically flow very slowly. For example, in a copper wire of cross-section 0.5 mm², carrying a current of 5 A, the drift velocity of the electrons is of the order of a millimetre per second.
Speed of electricity : When a DC voltage is applied the electrons will increase in speed proportional to the strength of the electric field. These speeds are on the order of millimeters per hour.
 
Courant électrique : La propagation de l'influx électrique se fait à une vitesse voisine de celle de la lumière (aux effets capacitifs près), mais ce n'est pas pour autant la vitesse des électrons qui le constituent. Ceux-ci voyagent plus modestement à quelques dixièmes de millimètres par seconde, en fonction de l'intensité du courant et de la section du conducteur
Vitesse de l'électricité : Pour le courant électrique, la vitesse de l'information est d'environ 226 000 km/s dans l'eau^{[size=0.8em]1[/size]} (courant électrique dans une solution saline) et 273 000 km/s dans le cuivre. Les charges, elles, se déplacent beaucoup plus lentement, environ 60 cm par heure dans un fil de cuivre)
 

 

[joelpearce]

It's time for me to post in here again.  I've been talking some to Leeperry about the T50RP, and I have been experimenting again with damping my pair.  They sound truly stunning now, so I wanted to walk through what I've done (which I think is a bit different, and designed to match my own tastes.  Essentially, I took their entire damping scheme and started from scratch.
 
First, I took all padding from the front and back of the driver.  There is still a very thin protective layer on the front driver, but that heavy nonsense is gone.  The back of the driver is totally nekkid.
 
I took the felt off the vent on the back of the cup, then covered two of the four holes with a small piece of electrical tape.  I mass dampened the baffle with blutack, poking plenty of holes in the surface so that it's not too smooth.
 
I used double sided tape to attach some thin rubber foam to the back of the cup to mass dampen that as well.  The only other damping is a small piece of poly quilt batting, which is set into the cup.
 
This is a really stripped-down damping scheme, but I've been really impressed with the results.  It brings out the midrange and maintains (to my ears) a cohesive center area.  It is significantly brighter, but still never sibilant.  At any rate, I thought I should share my success.  If I have time later, I might pop 'em open and take a couple pictures.  

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

@joelpearce
 
Is there any way you could get pictures of how this is done? I think it would be really helpful to a novice like me.

 

[Mad Max]

Can planar magnetic drivers take more DC than dynamics?  Not that you should ever try that, though.

 

[leeperry]

 

Can planar magnetic drivers take more DC than dynamics?  Not that you should ever try that, though.

I was wondering the same thing, but its max input is 3W, it was 1.5W on the cd3k. It's a good guess that it can also take a higher DC as well. These drivers seem "hard to kill"

 

 
Electric Current : Electric currents in solids typically flow very slowly.

 
well worth a bump: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/417250/dual-entry-what-s-the-point/30#post_6995433

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

Got my T50RP V2s in just now, currently running from Zune > Marantz 1250 > T50RPs.
 
While they were indeed a huge improvement over my AD700s Can't say I'm incredibly impressed with them just yet. Not very comfortable either...
 
Which modification should I try first?

 

[cya147]

Quote:

Got my T50RP V2s in just now, currently running from Zune > Marantz 1250 > T50RPs.
 
While they were indeed a huge improvement over my AD700s Can't say I'm incredibly impressed with them just yet. Not very comfortable either...
 
Which modification should I try first?

It is actually sound very good with right fitting. If it sounds muddy in mid and bass, rolled-off high, bad transparancy then you need to change your headphone possition.
 
I do wonder which modd should i try first...
 

 

[SP Wild]

Quote:

Hi spwild
where did you buy your t50 from? It seems b&h will ship to Australia. Cheapest method is $47 so it will cost $120 approx all up. Do you you know of any cheaper options to buy them from Australia?

I bought mine from Midi-Store, it came up at around 100 dollars shipped.

 

[joelpearce]

Quote:

Got my T50RP V2s in just now, currently running from Zune > Marantz 1250 > T50RPs.
 
While they were indeed a huge improvement over my AD700s Can't say I'm incredibly impressed with them just yet. Not very comfortable either...
 
Which modification should I try first?

First, try some things that are reversible--don't go nuts until you know how you feel about the sonic changes.
 
The absolute first order is to get yourself some blutack and mass dampen the baffle, and maybe some on the cup.  Once that resonance is gone, things start to get a lot better.

 
Quote:

@joelpearce
 
Is there any way you could get pictures of how this is done? I think it would be really helpful to a novice like me.

I can't take you through the process, since it's done, but I could certainly take some pictures of the finished product.
 
So the thing I wouldn't recommend right away is the first shot, with the thick felt removed.  I keep mine bare, but a less aggressive felt would also help here:
 

 
Any other changes will require taking off the pads (carefully, now), which will reveal the bare baffle.  Take off the four outer screws and carefully lift the baffle out.  Pull too hard, and you could end up with a nice soldering job on your hands.
 

 
I would recommend dealing with the baffle first.  Mass dampening here shouldn't even be considered optional.  If you want these cans to sound good, get some weight into those gaps.  Taking the padding off is completely optional, and many will want to replace it with micropore or other tape.
 

 
 
After that, you can focus on those cups.  Removing the felt here is optional, but it is good to get some weight strapped onto the cup again, which will kill some of the extra sound and clean things up for you.  Blutack or bitumen would work here as well, but I had some of the rubber felt kicking around.
 

 
After this, you need to do something to dampen that sound, especially if you have been pulling off their damping materials.  Otherwise, you will get a pretty harsh sounding pair of headphones.  I used a thin sheet of fluffy poly batting, but you could also use some foam or felt or something else to eat up some of that energy.
 

 
Then, you just need to carefully close them back up again (don't turn the screws too tight), get the pads back on, and fire 'em up.  I guarantee once you start into the modding that you will end up getting in there a few times to try to nail the sound you want.
 
I hope that's helpful.

 

[leeperry]

yay, naked driver! but if the felt before the cups side vents has been removed as well, dust will get into the drivers soon or later IMHO. Naked driver has its risks.
 
I guess that's more less solved as you've added cushion stuffing in the cups, but it's irreversible :/
 
I guess it still sounds dark after all this?

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

@joelpearce
 
I can't even begin to tell you how much I want to thank you, but here goes, THANK YOU!
 
I currently do not own any blue tack but I do have a ton of kneadable eraser, would this suffice?