How to disassemble Grado RS-1?
May 25, 2006 at 3:37 PM Post #16 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by kramer5150
Yeah Doosiks RS1 was an OLD pair so the glue had deteriorated over time. He just pulled and peeled it and it came off.

I think we first have to find out what kind of glue they use. I can't tell if its hot melt or something else. I dont think its hot melt glue. My HF1 (hot melt) just fell apart with a little pulling. The RS1 is MUCH more secure than that.


??????

Garrett



Yeah, it's definitely not hot glue. The cheaper Grados all use Hot Glue... this is something else entirely. Looks a lot like a wood glue, right?
 
May 25, 2006 at 6:31 PM Post #17 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by AtheisticFreedom
Heehee...

*bang bang* Maxwell's silver hammer came down upon a Grado...*doo doo do doo do*...
icon10.gif



Late nights all alone with a RS-1

And a hammer, heat gun, and freezer
eek.gif
 
May 26, 2006 at 1:31 AM Post #19 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by elnero
I think the only person I've seen who has had RS-1's and MSPro's apart was doobooloo.


add 1.

i never touched my ms-pros, but i violently molested my ms-2's. their resulting "character" was amazing, and i am quite happy with how they turned out.

cracking open the wood grados is not hard. you may crack the wood, but i didnt... dont do this
wink.gif

procedure: get the SMALLEST flat head screw-driver you can find. miune is about 1/32" wide (2/3mm or so)
try not to peel/crack the glue around the drivers. you can remove it easily later on, and it will actually help protect the wood a bit.
GENTLY press the screwdriver between the driver and the wood. there is still glue here. dont wory about prying, just poke very small holes into the joint.
work your way around the driver in this fashion.
when you have a bunch of small holes (and an obvious seam) start to push further. you will feel when the screwdriver first goes throug the glue, it will loose resistance. take your time pushing your tool in, no need to rush and cause dammage.
work your way SLOWLY around the driver.
when you think you have the vast majority of the glue removed, get something longer, but about the same diameter (so it fits in the grills) and push the driver out gently. be sure that you push on the metal button in the center of the driver, the outer rim of the driver is covered by a fabric/paper that i recomend removing when you get the drivers out, but not pushing your tool aganst.

after that is all done, you scrape all the rest of the glue off, and go to town on whatever mods you want to do.
 
May 26, 2006 at 1:38 AM Post #20 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod
add 1.

i never touched my ms-pros, but i violently molested my ms-2's. their resulting "character" was amazing, and i am quite happy with how they turned out.

cracking open the wood grados is not hard. you may crack the wood, but i didnt... dont do this
wink.gif

procedure: get the SMALLEST flat head screw-driver you can find. miune is about 1/32" wide (2/3mm or so)
try not to peel/crack the glue around the drivers. you can remove it easily later on, and it will actually help protect the wood a bit.
GENTLY press the screwdriver between the driver and the wood. there is still glue here. dont wory about prying, just poke very small holes into the joint.
work your way around the driver in this fashion.
when you have a bunch of small holes (and an obvious seam
) start to push further. you will feel when the screwdriver first goes throug the glue, it will loose resistance. take your time pushing your tool in, no need to rush and cause dammage.
work your way SLOWLY around the driver.
when you think you have the vast majority of the glue removed, get something longer, but about the same diameter (so it fits in the grills) and push the driver out gently. be sure that you push on the metal button in the center of the driver, the outer rim of the driver is covered by a fabric/paper that i recomend removing when you get the drivers out, but not pushing your tool aganst.

after that is all done, you scrape all the rest of the glue off, and go to town on whatever mods you want to do.



wow
eek.gif
nice!
 
May 26, 2006 at 2:23 AM Post #22 of 33
not sure if this works.....but it works on the plastic grados:

1) take a small nail clipper....flip open the handle
2) heat up the cups with a hair dryer
3) put the handle in the gap between the driver housing and the cup
4) push it sround the gap as if you're opening a can food.

it will come loose without scratching anything...provided that your nail clipper handle is smooth and thick enough. This is similar to the spoon trick, but nail clipper generally have a thicker and smoother handle and I find that a small nail clipper's handle can fit into the groove nicely but I had some trouble finding a spoon with thick and narrow heck that'd fit in. you will need to do this a couple of times as the glue get cools down and harden pretty quickly. good luck
 
May 26, 2006 at 2:50 AM Post #23 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by kin0kin
not sure if this works.....but it works on the plastic grados:

1) take a small nail clipper....flip open the handle
2) heat up the cups with a hair dryer
3) put the handle in the gap between the driver housing and the cup
4) push it sround the gap as if you're opening a can food.

it will come loose without scratching anything...provided that your nail clipper handle is smooth and thick enough. This is similar to the spoon trick, but nail clipper generally have a thicker and smoother handle and I find that a small nail clipper's handle can fit into the groove nicely but I had some trouble finding a spoon with thick and narrow heck that'd fit in. you will need to do this a couple of times as the glue get cools down and harden pretty quickly. good luck



Several posts in this thread have mentioned that the glue on the RS-1 does not look like the hot glue used on the SR series (I have an RS-1 and a couple of SR 'phones and I agree) and looks more like wood glue. I wouldn't recommend trying the melting thing on the RS-1s. Just my 2 cents.
 
May 26, 2006 at 3:18 AM Post #24 of 33
if it's wood glue that'd be very troublesome as they harden till much like plastic. I doubt it is wooden glue though...I don't think grado would make them not serviceable...unless the cost of making them is really cheap to have them disposable (if doa)
 
May 26, 2006 at 3:46 AM Post #25 of 33
Quote:

Originally Posted by kin0kin
if it's wood glue that'd be very troublesome as they harden till much like plastic. I doubt it is wooden glue though...I don't think grado would make them not serviceable...unless the cost of making them is really cheap to have them disposable (if doa)


No, Grado definitely does fix them. I know that they sometimes need to keep them inside for a few days to even the temperature though. It's that sensitive a process.
 
May 26, 2006 at 3:51 AM Post #26 of 33
most likely not wood glue then....ive used some probond woodglue for my ddr pad project and once they are stuck....there is no way to unbind them unless (probably) heated to a very high temperature...(a working driver would probably be dead at that temp
biggrin.gif
)
 
May 27, 2006 at 2:35 AM Post #30 of 33
if its any help to the board, the glue was a very brittle one.

when it dries it is a clear yellow. it is the same color and darkness all the way through, so i doubt it picks up color from the varnish's/stains used.

my vote goes towards water based wood glue. perhaps a special one, but probably not.
 

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