We have tested that resin. From my experience with that resin if you rinse prints in alcohol to remove excess liquid resin you can cure it without N2. But if you want to cure shells only after for eg. centrifuging, the N2 protective atmosphere will be necessary to get the surface without a sticky inhibition layer. It is also worth mentioning (like @piotrus-g said), that Siraya tech resin will give you less consistent results and dimension/surface stability in comparison to way more expensive, but also a lot better resins from Dreve (like DLP.A)so i wont need to cure it under n2 to not have an inhibition layer?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
JEHL
1000+ Head-Fier
Do you think I'll eventually need some type of B&K HATS if I ever want to hit a target like this?
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
No. there are recipes in this forum that will get there.Do you think I'll eventually need some type of B&K HATS if I ever want to hit a target like this?
JEHL
1000+ Head-Fier
Allright... Where do I even start?No. there are recipes in this forum that will get there.
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Search the images for xover then youll be able to ho to that post.Allright... Where do I even start?
Allright... Where do I even start?
Try to find the 38D2XJ, steeper rolloff than 38D1XJ, so you're already there on the low end.
ForceMajeure
1000+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Posts
- 1,216
- Likes
- 471
As a rule of thumb I always solder the wires to the female jack with the cable plugged. It helps dissipate the heat and reduce the chances that in the long run, the female pins might get dislodged from the casing and pushed inside when the cable is inserted.PSA for those of us that purchase in small batch components. The last round of black and clear flush mount female 2-pin connectors I received from Aliexpress are INCREDIBLY sensitive to the iron. I typically use my solder at 360-365. Well within range of the Knowles recommendations. These pins will loosen considerably after a couple three taps at that temperature. Im trying to figure out a micro sized heat sync and will keep you posted. If you typically have .75 male pins… it might be high time to have some .78 pinned cables handy. Its heart breaking to see…
Also I reduce the heat to usually ~345 and sometimes lower just for that.
(Sorry for reviving that post lol. I am just keeping up with the thread after a while)
Last edited:
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Upon further digging, the solder needs to be reduced to sub 300C. The center of the connector can only withstand heat of UP TO 320C.As a rule of thumb I always solder the wires to the female jack with the cable plugged. It helps dissipate the heat and reduce the chances that in the long run, the female pins might get dislodged from the casing and pushed inside when the cable is inserted.
Also I reduce the heat to usually ~345 and sometimes lower just for that.
(Sorry for reviving that post lol. I am just keeping up with the thread after a while)
Here's the thing, the lower the temp the longer you have to solder, you actually want higher temp and be faster with soldering.Upon further digging, the solder needs to be reduced to sub 300C. The center of the connector can only withstand heat of UP TO 320C.
you could probably design one and send to local CNC shop or someone with lathe to make some, should be dirt cheap.Anyone know where to buy metal vent like this?
Anyone know where to buy metal vent like this?
Take a cigarette lighter apart. A few nice aluminum and brass parts at a reasonable scale for this purpose. Try a few different types of lighters.
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2012
- Posts
- 473
- Likes
- 296
Closest thing for me is a round DIP socket for IC. I've been using those during my GunPla days. HahaTake a cigarette lighter apart. A few nice aluminum and brass parts at a reasonable scale for this purpose. Try a few different types of lighters.
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Why use a metal fitting instead of designing into the shell?Closest thing for me is a round DIP socket for IC. I've been using those during my GunPla days. Haha
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2012
- Posts
- 473
- Likes
- 296
*Aesthetics*Why use a metal fitting instead of designing into the shell?
I don't use any vents tho. Just saying that i find the round dip sockets looks near to it since I use those back when I was making Gundam model kits. Haha
Why use a metal fitting instead of designing into the shell?
Anything mass produced to a tight tolerance like that will have almost no dimensional variation from part to part, so every one of them is effectively the same. Cross that off the channel matching troubleshooting list, there is some value in that alone.
Users who are viewing this thread
Total: 7 (members: 0, guests: 7)