Home-Made IEMs
Jun 29, 2023 at 9:16 AM Post #15,421 of 16,258
so i wont need to cure it under n2 to not have an inhibition layer?
We have tested that resin. From my experience with that resin if you rinse prints in alcohol to remove excess liquid resin you can cure it without N2. But if you want to cure shells only after for eg. centrifuging, the N2 protective atmosphere will be necessary to get the surface without a sticky inhibition layer. It is also worth mentioning (like @piotrus-g said), that Siraya tech resin will give you less consistent results and dimension/surface stability in comparison to way more expensive, but also a lot better resins from Dreve (like DLP.A)
 
Jul 1, 2023 at 11:04 PM Post #15,422 of 16,258
Do you think I'll eventually need some type of B&K HATS if I ever want to hit a target like this?
graph (22).png
 
Jul 4, 2023 at 4:17 PM Post #15,427 of 16,258
PSA for those of us that purchase in small batch components. The last round of black and clear flush mount female 2-pin connectors I received from Aliexpress are INCREDIBLY sensitive to the iron. I typically use my solder at 360-365. Well within range of the Knowles recommendations. These pins will loosen considerably after a couple three taps at that temperature. Im trying to figure out a micro sized heat sync and will keep you posted. If you typically have .75 male pins… it might be high time to have some .78 pinned cables handy. Its heart breaking to see… 😂😂🥲🥲
As a rule of thumb I always solder the wires to the female jack with the cable plugged. It helps dissipate the heat and reduce the chances that in the long run, the female pins might get dislodged from the casing and pushed inside when the cable is inserted.

Also I reduce the heat to usually ~345 and sometimes lower just for that.

(Sorry for reviving that post lol. I am just keeping up with the thread after a while)
 
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Jul 5, 2023 at 10:41 AM Post #15,428 of 16,258
As a rule of thumb I always solder the wires to the female jack with the cable plugged. It helps dissipate the heat and reduce the chances that in the long run, the female pins might get dislodged from the casing and pushed inside when the cable is inserted.

Also I reduce the heat to usually ~345 and sometimes lower just for that.

(Sorry for reviving that post lol. I am just keeping up with the thread after a while)
Upon further digging, the solder needs to be reduced to sub 300C. The center of the connector can only withstand heat of UP TO 320C.
 
Jul 5, 2023 at 11:16 AM Post #15,429 of 16,258
Anyone know where to buy metal vent like this?
 

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Jul 5, 2023 at 5:16 PM Post #15,430 of 16,258
Upon further digging, the solder needs to be reduced to sub 300C. The center of the connector can only withstand heat of UP TO 320C.
Here's the thing, the lower the temp the longer you have to solder, you actually want higher temp and be faster with soldering.
Anyone know where to buy metal vent like this?
you could probably design one and send to local CNC shop or someone with lathe to make some, should be dirt cheap.
 
Jul 8, 2023 at 5:16 PM Post #15,435 of 16,258
Why use a metal fitting instead of designing into the shell?

Anything mass produced to a tight tolerance like that will have almost no dimensional variation from part to part, so every one of them is effectively the same. Cross that off the channel matching troubleshooting list, there is some value in that alone.
 

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