[swtnate]

Oh, that’s the point! I was wondering how is it possible to have the print smooth through the layers. That’s the setting for pro3dure? Or it should be the starting point for all the clear resins? And another question is can I use normal resin for ear shells but with the dreve lack 3? If it’s all covered, it should be super safe yup?

for the transparent resin the NOVA3D ultra transparency and one that remains the most clear.
it is not easy to print it needs good regulation







after of course there are resins like the dreve fototec DLP which is dearer , the detax molding freeprint and well also , there is still a small bluish effect, can be due to the optical azuran

blushing, especially on a machine like the Saturn that has such a large build plate, creates a TON of suction force With a full plate. You can prevent almost all of the effect by reducing your retract speed and employing a solid light off delay. I will post pics. Its pretty wild actually. The accuracy of the elegoo printer is not that of the Asiga or envisiontec. BUT, its within the tolerances of meeting laboratory standards. You simply have to allow the resin to settle into place before the licght fires on for the subsequent layer.

 

[Aldo40]

I own an Asiga pro 2 and a MARS 3 and the Mars 3 has nothing to be ashamed of

The tray of my pro 2 is huge and the noise of peeling layers is impressive, it’s really loud!

Staying in 0.50 per layer I really don’t see any difference, the accuracy is really similar and it is for these reasons that I hardly use my Asiga

I also don’t like Asiga’s policy regarding their chip resin bin.

I have a 1 liter bin, it is not a litre but it means that the printer disables the bin when a litre of the part has not been printed even if the bin and its FEP is still in good condition, The change of a full tank is in the 150€ for the 1 L and it is more expensive for the 5 liters which of course will last longer before it deactivates.

 

[swtnate]

I own an Asiga pro 2 and a MARS 3 and the Mars 3 has nothing to be ashamed of

The tray of my pro 2 is huge and the noise of peeling layers is impressive, it’s really loud!

Staying in 0.50 per layer I really don’t see any difference, the accuracy is really similar and it is for these reasons that I hardly use my Asiga

I also don’t like Asiga’s policy regarding their chip resin bin.

I have a 1 liter bin, it is not a litre but it means that the printer disables the bin when a litre of the part has not been printed even if the bin and its FEP is still in good condition, The change of a full tank is in the 150€ for the 1 L and it is more expensive for the 5 liters which of course will last longer before it deactivates.

A huge plus is the heated resin tray and they have print parameters for all the major 3D resin companies. Thats really whats your paying for.

 

[Aldo40]

A huge plus is the heated resin tray and they have print parameters for all the major 3D resin companies. Thats really whats your paying for.

So it’s this kind of parameter that drew me to asiga but in real life it’s a bit more complicated I find, I put the files for freeprint detax for example and my print was defective, I had to use some parameters much more complex than on the march for example to succeed impressions.

Piloting via wifi is really good, the proprietary software, the tray height to release many shell at the same time.

I think I’m going to sell it, it takes up too much space and honestly I have released coins with Mars 3 with a precision that goes to Delas of my hopes.

 

[stegeoc]

Hi All, I've built a couple of hybrid iems and have been happy with them but feel a bit lost when it comes to buying DDs. BAs are so well documented but it seems virtually no DDs are branded and the prices vary wildly. It is even rare to see any specs or graphs at all. How do you know what is good and what to avoid?

I'm also a bit lost when it comes to different types of venting and in testing have found very little or no difference in sound at all.

Just playing around out of interest as I'm really happy with my GK+rab+38xm and doubt I can improve on it for my tastes

 

[dhruvmeena96]

after redo crossover for GQ. 20ohm to ED, 47ohm series 1uf cap to WBFK. DD full range series 10ohm.
Yellow Damper to DD.

Thanks Dhruvmeena.

looks good but can be improved................... love the bass curve... done super nice

 

[gregeagle]

hello

this is the method used by detax, earsonics also

 

[piotrus-g]

I own an Asiga pro 2 and a MARS 3 and the Mars 3 has nothing to be ashamed of

The tray of my pro 2 is huge and the noise of peeling layers is impressive, it’s really loud!

Staying in 0.50 per layer I really don’t see any difference, the accuracy is really similar and it is for these reasons that I hardly use my Asiga

I also don’t like Asiga’s policy regarding their chip resin bin.

I have a 1 liter bin, it is not a litre but it means that the printer disables the bin when a litre of the part has not been printed even if the bin and its FEP is still in good condition, The change of a full tank is in the 150€ for the 1 L and it is more expensive for the 5 liters which of course will last longer before it deactivates.

Yeah that's the disadvantage of Asiga, it adds completely unnecessary costs. Rapidshape doesn't have such limits.
Speaking with rapidshape they told me heating tray is used only for non-bio compatible materials and f.e. dreve materials will not be heated by design.

 

[gregeagle]

I use a small heat fan..... just give the Resin a quick blow in the tray....the bubbles are gone and the resin (if needed) is on temperature.... dont do it on Detax freeprint mould... it caused some fancy stuff in the Resin...

 

[FatihEnes]

hey,

I wanted to build my first DIY custom IEM for a collage project and wanted to use the internals of an existing IEM. I currently own the FiiO FH3 and the Thieaudio Legacy 3 seems tuned the same.

Is it easy to get out the internals from the Thieaudio Legacy 3 for example or is everything heavily glued? Any recommendation for a good multi driver IEM as a internal donor?

 

[Aldo40]

Ouais c'est l'inconvénient d'Asiga, ça rajoute des frais complètement inutiles. Rapidshape n'a pas de telles limites.
En parlant avec rapidshape, ils m'ont dit que le plateau chauffant n'est utilisé que pour les matériaux non biocompatibles et que les matériaux fe dreve ne seront pas chauffés par conception.

Oui c'était décidément du super matos il y a quelques années avec ses inconforts, je trouve l'histoire du changement de bacs naze, c'est vraiment un point faible chez eux:froncer les sourcils2:
Earsonic chez nous ils ont la HA20+ c'est une belle machine, d'ailleurs si tu l'utilises, que pense tu de la résine clear dreve fototec DLP?
Je n'utilise que le moule Detax freeprint pour le moment, mais je trouve qu'il a des reflets violets.

J'utilise le DREVE en traditionnel qui reste parfaitement clair sans reflet de couleur, j'hésite à acheter un litre de fototec DLP.

Si elle a le même visuel que l'S IO, je suis intéressé à avoir des retours.

Merci

Aldo:clin d'œil:

 

[Aldo40]

I use a small heat fan..... just give the Resin a quick blow in the tray....the bubbles are gone and the resin (if needed) is on temperature.... dont do it on Detax freeprint mould... it caused some fancy stuff in the Resin...

personally I leave rested the resine detax feeeprint at least 30 minutes the time the bubbles rise to the surface and then I launch the printing

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Oye bois

By the way

I have retired myself from building iem because i cant afford it

Though you guys can throw any doubts on me i will try my level best to answer till i can

And it can include any topics

Including crossover etc ...
Trying to get active back again on headfi one last time

Life's hard here!!

 

[gregeagle]

personally I leave rested the resine detax feeeprint at least 30 minutes the time the bubbles rise to the surface and then I launch the printing

now i do that too!!! after I lost 50ml of freeprint... on more basic resins also ABS like I use the small heat fan and I can print after shaking and blowing right away...

 

[Aldo40]

now i do that too!!! after I lost 50ml of freeprint... on more basic resins also ABS like I use the small heat fan and I can print after shaking and blowing right away...

Cool