[Shilohsjustice]

I'm not a pro either but I take a pair of tweezers and push the tubing onto it, carefully heat it with either a heat gun or lighter until its soft and carefully open the tweezers up to gently stretch the tubing. This works very effective and only takes a few seconds.

@tomekk I tried a 1000mw laser before getting the 40w laser and it did etch the acrylic, it was just really poor quality and could not handle what I was trying to accomplish. It's worth investing the $300 into the 40w laser as everything on it is upgradable.

I posted about my experience with it back sometime in July of 2016.

 

[tomekk]

I found your machine. I also checked your posts. Great work and photos! These engravers from the 1W machine didn't look bad. I will think of something more pro pro if I can practice.

https://www.headfonia.com/q-n-a-saturday-jh-audio/

Interview with Jerry Harvey about Triple Fi, EU5EB (LOL I think I have contact with someone who still have them in a drawer), and a few words about us.

 

[Arturo Sallas]

I'm not a pro either but I take a pair of tweezers and push the tubing onto it, carefully heat it with either a heat gun or lighter until its soft and carefully open the tweezers up to gently stretch the tubing. This works very effective and only takes a few seconds.

"I´m not a pro either" C´mon! I´ve seen what you do and it´s really impressive. Actually I´ll take the process you described long ago to start my tests. I´m waiting for Egger resin to arrive this week, and that´s all I´m missing. I´ll keep you guys posted.

HI!

The couplers with preamp are between 400 to 1000 USD each. Depending on whether you buy it individually or with a system. It is totally unnecessary for hobby/diy use.

Thanks! in that case, for now I´ll skip the strict measurement part. I have a measurement microphone (Beyer Dynamic MM1) and I´ll try to figure out the way to build something similar to the VERITAS to fit in to mine at least to get some readings.

This is just an experiment for now but hopefully I´ll be able to release some designs to the market thanks to all you guys!

Cheers!

 

[napka]

I´ve found just a few posts about 711 couplers, I saw a few of you bought from a Chinese manufacturer

I've ordered ~$75 one from taobao 3 months ago. Waited for a month, got no reply, refunded.

 

[tomekk]

Ok guys, this font and technique needs to be refined. It took me 5 hours.

however ...

Spoiler

 

[Shilohsjustice]

@tomekk Looking good, exactly what I did. I have all my peramiters saved so I just load the profile when I what to do a serial number. I also marked with a marker on my 40w laser control panel with what intensity renders the best results with the acrylic!!!

 

[Arturo Sallas]

So I went out and bought some thermofit to use it as an adapter for my Beyerdynamic MM1 and this is the result.



The orange IEM´s attached are my brother´s, he´s a musicians and he got them 2 years ago from Advanced Ears.

I started measuring the SE425 and this is what I got. Left and Right on different colors.


Pretty good right? Frequency and Phase response seem to be the same. Now the Advanced Ears.


Frequency response is very close and I could blame the homemade adapter I just did, but look at the phase response. It´s 180 degrees off. The IEM´s have the 2 prong connector so I just flipped it and..

VOILA! the phase matches in both IEM´s. My brother told me since nobody had ever told him that, and also since they are custom, he thought that´s the way they should sound.

Let me know what you think.

 

[sanekn]

I found out using a qtip worked better for me to apply the fotoplast lacquer. Also the layer is thinner which is good as I use it just for the finish and not for the thickness...

 

[ForceMajeure]

Ok guys, this font and technique needs to be refined. It took me 5 hours.

however ...

Spoiler

Can you provide a link to the laser machine you used? also could you please talk about the technique you used? Great work!

So I went out and bought some thermofit to use it as an adapter for my Beyerdynamic MM1 and this is the result.



The orange IEM´s attached are my brother´s, he´s a musicians and he got them 2 years ago from Advanced Ears.

I started measuring the SE425 and this is what I got. Left and Right on different colors.


Pretty good right? Frequency and Phase response seem to be the same. Now the Advanced Ears.


Frequency response is very close and I could blame the homemade adapter I just did, but look at the phase response. It´s 180 degrees off. The IEM´s have the 2 prong connector so I just flipped it and..

VOILA! the phase matches in both IEM´s. My brother told me since nobody had ever told him that, and also since they are custom, he thought that´s the way they should sound.

Let me know what you think.

Looks good so far. even the seal doesn't look bad. incase you need better seal you could use the mighty blue tak of course.

I found out using a qtip worked better for me to apply the fotoplast lacquer. Also the layer is thinner which is good as I use it just for the finish and not for the thickness...

If it works for you then good.
I personally found no better way of using the lacquer than using the correct amount on a brush and do one pass with one side of the brush and another pass next to it, with the other side of the brush, slightly over lapping on the edge of the previous pass. then dip again and so on... this way I had the best results, like pros. Basically using the brush only 2 times, one time for each side before dipping again.
Sometimes you can get away with 3/4 passes without re dipping but it's not recommended to do it all the time.

I paint the whole IEM before curing. if you do it in stages you'll have small seams. In case I am not satisfied I sand down with 800 or 1200 or even 2000 grit and do it over.

No way around it, there is a need to use enough lacquer with every dip. if not it will not look good. better buff the iem than using not enough amount of lacquer.
If you plan on correcting an area you need to make sure the brush was dipped and then do it over. Make sure you rotate the iem before curing so it spread evenly. The lacquer in itself is self leveling so it needs a minute or two to spread correctly.

Also to really see the if the lacquer is applied nicely and evenly before curing you need daylight and a big amount of it. it's very difficult to see if it's even everywhere. The final IEM result will only look as good as the last layer of lacquer you used IMO. Even if the iem is bubble free, an uneven lacquer layer will make it look less impressive.

I personally feel that lacquering is one of the most challenging skill to acquire making a CIEM. it's not as easy as just brush it down and cure. It requires experience and unfortunately the lacquer is very expensive to do tests and because it's a flammable it's more difficult to acquire for many without spending muchos extra dinaros for shipping.

 

[Firedrops]

I actually made a ghetto DIY with the RAB 32257 recently. The goal was to just make something that was tiny and can be worn comfortably to sleep, but it turned out to have surprisingly good sound quality (decent bass, mids, detail, and soundstage that I didn't expect from a 1BA setup). No dampers or electrical crossovers of any sort was used, it was just wired direct and tucked under 2 layers of heatshrink and glued into repurposed metal bores. As with most BAs, you really want to ensure a perfect seal. Also, rumours have it the Etymotic ER4XR also uses the RABs with a green damper. It's probably the best and simplest single BA solution if you can't fit a pre-made dual (GU/GV) or a triple (GK).

FR from those RABs with no RC/dampers of any sort, from Dayton IMM06 and Crinacle's periodic white noise file. Looks a lot smoother than I expected, although it does nothing after 10k D:

 

[tomekk]

It all depends on the tube thickness, length too. I know that a shorter tube is a better high freq exposure, but if you compare your design (it's cool!) with Ety XR - all series have sound bore.

it does nothing after 10k D:

In my opinion after 10k the curve looks consistent with RAB 32257 freq response.

 

[tomekk]

I have a complex question. I have noticed in some projects (more than 6 drivers) additional driver with elongated tube (20-30mm). Is this driver included in the kit to improve the scene? It is full-range tuned? (In my opinion they are behind the high pass filter). How to reconcile phases in this configuration? For example, I recognized SWFK.

QUOTE="MuZo2, post: 13678553, member: 274175"]

[/QUOTE]

The long tubing is an attempt to correct phase shift caused by a high pass filter.

After two weeks and a large dose of LIMP, several dozen pieces of the tubing, resistors, capacitors and a few nights with a cup of coffee, I caught what it was all about. I am not a specialist, but now I can measure phase and try to improve for better results.



Thank You @MuZo2 and @Bad Username!

 

[ForceMajeure]

QUOTE="MuZo2, post: 13678553, member: 274175"]

After two weeks and a large dose of LIMP, several dozen pieces of the tubing, resistors, capacitors and a few nights with a cup of coffee, I caught what it was all about. I am not a specialist, but now I can measure phase and try to improve for better results.



Thank You @MuZo2 and @Bad Username![/QUOTE]


check this post from 2 years ago.

also the final judgment is what you ear.

 

[bartzky]

After two weeks and a large dose of LIMP, several dozen pieces of the tubing, resistors, capacitors and a few nights with a cup of coffee, I caught what it was all about. I am not a specialist, but now I can measure phase and try to improve for better results

As you were mentioning LIMP I fear you are measuring the electrical phase but not the acoustical phase. What you will need to know for a Freqphase-like setup is the acoustical phase.

 

[ziixtreme]

Photo from other forum IEM MH334 ! Any ideas about the value of the resistor and the capacitor ? Thanks ....

684V is 0.68uF
Resistor is 5.1Ohms