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Home-Made IEMs
Dec 4, 2016 at 5:22 PM Post #5,611 of 16,107
Also, here's my current UV curing station. 
I've taken the traditional 36w UV nail lamp, and flipped it upside down. I was having a hard time getting even curing with the standard configuration, so I've grabbed a thin sheet of plexiglass, and placed it across the upside down lamp. The idea, being that the light coming up from the bottom would better cure the sides and the bowl of the ear. I'm now working on getting my cure times down correctly for the Nicefit UV resin. Anyway, I thought I'd share my ideas and see if anyone had any suggestions. :)
 

 

 
Dec 5, 2016 at 7:22 AM Post #5,613 of 16,107
forcemajeure said:
  That's the problem...light is coming from the bottom hardening the upper part of the shell also although they are under a cover.
 
what hydrocolloid material are you using? 
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I think the problem is that he is currently placing the lighter side of the cover facing the investment and is reflecting UV light to the top part of the shell, which can be fixed by taping the other side of his cover  
 
Dec 5, 2016 at 9:20 AM Post #5,614 of 16,107

forcemajeure said:
  That's the problem...light is coming from the bottom hardening the upper part of the shell also although they are under a cover.
 
what hydrocolloid material are you using? 
Click to expand...

 
Hi ForceMajeure, 
I'm using the Krystalloid hydrocolloid material as an investment material. I'll keep that in mind, but honestly, I don't think that the light direction is the problem. Also, I was experiencing the exact same problem when I was originally using using the lamp right side up. I was getting the same or more attachment issues with the lid as well. 
 
 
dustdevil said:
  I think the problem is that he is currently placing the lighter side of the cover facing the investment and is reflecting UV light to the top part of the shell, which can be fixed by taping the other side of his cover  
Click to expand...

 
Hi Dustdevil,
Thanks for the idea. I think this may be the correct answer and my possible solution. I'll give this a shot and try to report back with my results. I did try Aluminum for my cover at first, but even covering it in clear plastic didn't prevent things from adhering to it pretty strongly.
 
Having the light on the bottom, combined with my fresh Krystalloid has drastically reduced my curing time and has in turn made the bond between the new shell and the cover much thinner. I'm hoping that the cover won't adhere and this allow the shell to stay in place, thus creating the extremely smooth shells that Shiloughsjustice demonstrated previously 
atsmile.gif
 Anyway, I absolutely love this community and everyone's guidance and support! I'll report back with my results!
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 11:19 AM Post #5,618 of 16,107
@Shilohsjustice
 
When you are coating impressions with wax, do you find that you need to do a quick dip and remove to get a thin layer of wax, or can you leave the impression in for some time and still get a thin layer.
 
I am concerned that if I leave the impressions in too long it will allow too much wax to build up, as my impressions are already a snug fit. I just want a minimal amount of wax to smooth out the impression.
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 11:40 AM Post #5,619 of 16,107
jbr1971 said:
  @Shilohsjustice
 
When you are coating impressions with wax, do you find that you need to do a quick dip and remove to get a thin layer of wax, or can you leave the impression in for some time and still get a thin layer.
 
I am concerned that if I leave the impressions in too long it will allow too much wax to build up, as my impressions are already a snug fit. I just want a minimal amount of wax to smooth out the impression.
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I find the opposite.  A quick dip means the impression stays cooler and thus hardens more wax around it.  When I leave them in, they warm up to the waxes temperature and solidify just the thinnest of coats.
 
Shiloh's answer, with video:  post #4719
 
"A couple things about wax dipping, make sure the temperature of the wax is between 125 degrees Fahrenheit (51.6 degrees Celsius) and 132 degrees Fahrenheit (55.5 degrees Celsius), any cooler than that and the dip will be clumpy and thick and any hotter than that the wax will be too hot and thin"
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 3:24 PM Post #5,621 of 16,107

 
I remember some where curious about what half tap/coil meant.
Here is a nice picture helping visualizing that.
On the left you can see a driver with the coil and wiring. One of the wires is "attached" (there is a solder point) roughly at the middle of the coil from there to the center solder pad.
Basically it will give half the resistance allowing more output, usually treble output where the impedance is higher by default (BA impedance curve being not linear and usually rise as the frequency rises).
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 7:17 PM Post #5,622 of 16,107




I am finally getting the hang of buffing/polishing rather than relying on Lacquer.  I'm curious what techniques and products everyone is using.  I have had catastrophes whilst polishing but since going to a smaller wheel (3-4 inch) I have had fewer flying earpieces and heart attacks.  Speaking of...that feeling when an IEM goes shooting threw your garage at mach speed!...Horrifying!
 
Anyhoo, what are you guys using for polishing compound and other tips might be useful?  I have been using the blue and white compound from Harbor Freight which seems to work okay.
 
Thanks Y'all!
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 3:17 PM Post #5,624 of 16,107
squirg said:








I am finally getting the hang of buffing/polishing rather than relying on Lacquer.  I'm curious what techniques and products everyone is using.  I have had catastrophes whilst polishing but since going to a smaller wheel (3-4 inch) I have had fewer flying earpieces and heart attacks.  Speaking of...that feeling when an IEM goes shooting threw your garage at mach speed!...Horrifying!

Anyhoo, what are you guys using for polishing compound and other tips might be useful?  I have been using the blue and white compound from Harbor Freight which seems to work okay.

Thanks Y'all!
Click to expand...


I KNOW THE FEELING OF IEMS GOING SHOOTING ACROSS THE GARAGE!! Lol, it sucks especially when you've already invested HOURS into the build.

They look beautiful!!!
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 3:22 PM Post #5,625 of 16,107
I like to share my homemade universal iem I made a few months ago.  I kind of prefer making it non custom so I could ask others to test on the sound quality of it.  Custom made is also expensive as well, so making this only cost me about $120.
 

 
 
 
I used a GK knowles and shure parts bought from ali express and no filter.  I am still having trouble determine which glue material best to use to seal the BA into the nozzle, replacing part D and E.  I used silicone, but it was risky and did not get a perfect seal.  I did not want to use anything permanent glue either.  But  with iem shell fully sealed, the sound quality I get is superb!  Ever since then, I can't really buy another iem to replace these.  
 
 
I decided to reduce the cost for my second iem  by using the apple iem connect with a RAB-32257-000.  The interior of the apple iem have a piece of plastic which I can easily insert the BA.  This 2nd iem is too easy to accomplish.  I had to seal the small homes back of the shell for a good seal.  I think it's also possible to 3D print your own IEM shell too, something similar to a etymotic HF5 shell.
 
Now I am left with a GQ, and I heard from some previous post that it is possible to combine a GQ and a RAB together with no crossover? 
 
 
rjcruiz25 said:
  Any configuration in 6 BA or 8 BA driver with crossover, please share your best tuning?
please post your diagram how to connect wiring, cap and resistor :)

thanks friend
 
Click to expand...

 
I would really like to know information on this too, even for a 4-5 BA. I'm still noob on crossovers
 
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